Member postings for John Reese

A method that works for me is this:

Set the steady where you want it, jaws nor touching the work. Turn the work slowly. Advance the front finger of the steady until that finger makes 360* contact with the work. Do the same with the back finger. Adjust the top finger for desired tension.

If you have roller fingers in your steady a holding your finger against the roller will help you determine when you have full contact. The roller will stop momentarily when it is out of contact with the work.

That should say 80* included angle.

I got a set of insert tools from Glanze. They use CCMT inserts. The 89* included angle lets you face or turn without re-orienting the tool. It also included holders that let you use the 100* corner so you can use all the corners of the insert.

If it is an Aloris clone it would be faoirly tolerant of dovetail width. Try it on the toolpost before doing anything else.

I have some oddbaall toolholders with a dovetail slightly too large for the toolpost. I use a shimcto make them work.

As the width of tool engagement increases you will begin to get chatter. Screw machines could run very wide form tools, Most hobby lathes aren't sufficiently rigid to handle wide contact without chatter.

The ball tool forces are primarily into the cross slide feed screw. Increased load on the tool will tend to decrease the depth of cut. With a form tool n the toolpost the cutting forces tend to tilt the tool down and to the left, momentarily increasing the depth of cut. That is when chatter begins.

I am a fan of tangential tools, as well. Notice the tool stickout on Vic,s tool. You can get to the bit with a stone to keep it sharp. It might even be possible to grind the bit without removing it from the holder. Unfortunately, when I made my tangential tool holder I kept the metal around the bit too high to allow stoning.

Is alum safe on copper alloys?

I question the use of the term, honing, for the operation described. In a real hone the stone is forced against the work and held rigidly in that position until it is re adjusted. Anything spring loaded, like a brake cylinder hone or ball hone is merely a surface conditioning device and gives no control of diameter.

A real hone will establish a straight hole of uniform diameter.

If anyone is interested in scaling up the Eureka tool there is a solid model posted on GrabCad.

I am glad to see someone grinding his own tools. Too many folks start off with carbide which, with a few exceptions is ill suited to hobby lathes.

Even getting the bit hot enough to turn blue will not harm it. I have silver brazed a steel rectangle to the side of a HSS parting blade with no ill effects.

Damn, grease nipples. I was hoping for something more interesting.

The slot drills designed for aluminum would be my choice.

If you are using the O ring for a model engine I don't think you want to follow Parker's groove dimensions. Too much friction. Parker specs are pretty much the bible for industrial O ring use.

It looks just like mine. One branded Gamet, the other branded Enco.

I suspect you mean Gamet. I have two, 1/2" and 3/4" bar size. Both are extremely well made and work well. Some were sold here in the US under the Enco brand. If you nee instructions I have them.

Martyn, It seems your lathe is robust enough to handle the interrupted cut. I say chuck it up and have at it. Rig some kind of sheet metal deflector to clamp over your tool to keep the cast iron chips from flying everywhere.

If I started a job doing the easy part first my Dad gave me hell for saving the hard part for last. If I started the hard part first he gave me hell that, too.

I think there is logic in starting with the easiest part first. As you work through the progressively harder parts you gain confidence and proficiency. What you learn on the simpler parts may give you some insight into ways to set up the difficult part.

telephone magneto

Gary,

You are turning the axles to diameter. I have to assume the shafts are soft. When you do your research on the bearing fit check o the hardness requirement for the shaft. You will find that the shafts must be hard for proper performance.

John

I am about to pull the pin.

On my BP I have some heavy attachments that clamp to the quill. Trying to support the device and rotate it to get the key aligned is a hassle. The pin has to go. then I can just shove it into place and hold it with the drawbar.