Here is a list of all the postings MW has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: Corrosive liquids. ................................... |
16/07/2017 12:41:02 |
The whole idea of crime means that you have a punishment. The two go hand in hand. If you dont have a punishment theres no point in having crimes. Agreed? So it might not be nice or pretty what then follows but its neccessary. Thats all it comes down to. If they tried the war criminals of WW2 today. They would not be able to hang them or detain indefinitely like they did in the past. That seems rather odd to me. Edited By Michael-w on 16/07/2017 12:46:15 |
16/07/2017 07:37:25 |
Posted by Hopper on 16/07/2017 07:17:10:
More people are killed by water than acid. Will they ban water too? It's a lot harder to wield as a weapon though. Michael W |
Thread: Silky smooth taps |
15/07/2017 13:35:46 |
Before I went upmarket with molislip, I used Vaseline as it was readily available, same tub still in the workshop, and like the guys say, it does the job, it probably would dry out before something like molislip would for long-term lubrication. Obviously I'd stay clear of molislip if it's going to come into contact with potable water. I believe the old timers favourite was tallow, but where you'd get that these days? Michael W Edited By Michael-w on 15/07/2017 13:39:13 |
Thread: Corrosive liquids. ................................... |
14/07/2017 22:09:57 |
Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 14/07/2017 20:13:57:
For model engineering Dilute Sulphuric Acid is the cheapest fast pickle. Caustic Soda is a power degreaser. The chemicals don't seem to be popular perhaps because they need to handled appropriately. There are several safer alternatives, like Citric Acid or Vinegar for pickling and the degreasers used for car maintenance etc. Dave
I've never used sulphuric for pickling before but I have used citric acid to do the same, it seems to work fine if you don't mind a little bit of elbow grease to shift the stubborn stuff. Using Warm water seems to help a bit I agree that with the internet they can trace who bought what and this makes it very easy to get a prosecution. People really aren't aware of how much they are spied on and they can piece together a trail of everything you've done if they put their mind to it. They don't advertise this fact of course because otherwise people would seek to avoid it. According to my councils' own website, you can in law legally request all the information they have collected about you, but it takes 40 days, you've got to pay £90 and anything they'd rather you didn't see they'll keep from you anyway. But as the old saying goes, if you haven't done anything wrong then you haven't got much to worry about. Michael W Edited By Michael-w on 14/07/2017 22:14:56 |
14/07/2017 19:20:51 |
The three big ones theyll probably focus on are hydrochloric acid, sulphuric acid and hydrofluoric. Although the last isnt all that acidic.(ph level 3?) It is dangerous. Edited By Michael-w on 14/07/2017 19:24:19 |
Thread: Machining stainless steel |
12/07/2017 12:29:58 |
If and likely this stuff is cold rolled, it is possible to anneal and stress relieve 304 by heating to around 1000C and quenching it very quickly, as is common to do with austenitic steels. Michael W |
Thread: cleaning brass after soldering |
10/07/2017 22:29:53 |
Posted by V8Eng on 10/07/2017 21:44:24:
When the politicos get involved, that does not bode well for legitimate users such as hobbyists etc, of course what is likely to be forgotten in all this is that the bad guys will just find another way.
It's always the legitimate user who gets stung. But then if nobody abused the law there would be no need for this. The inevitable result of the abuse is simply more and more rights being taken away from people, it's as simple as that. Michael W |
10/07/2017 22:23:20 |
Posted by Neil Wyatt on 10/07/2017 22:07:21:
TBH, I wouldn't object to signing for acids if it helped stop the attacks. Once upon a time we all had to sign the 'poisons book' to buy anything interesting. Neil Sounds like a very sensible policy, but with the advent of purchasing things so easily online I just wonder how well it could be enforced, It's at least another hurdle I suppose. To be honest, the types of people who would consider this wouldn't put themselves beyond using the dark net, however, that place is also crawling with law enforcement and surveillance and traps designed to waylay the criminals, a lot of potential terrorists have been caught this way. And even spend too long on there and you'll probably get the famous knock at the door even with an IP mask. Michael W |
Thread: A true 'beginners' lathework book? |
10/07/2017 22:17:59 |
Posted by John Haine on 10/07/2017 17:46:50:
L C Sparey "The Amateur's Lathe" +1 Ohh yess. |
Thread: What sort and how big an end mill or other milling cutter? |
09/07/2017 20:56:12 |
Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 09/07/2017 16:28:50:
Posted by Nige on 09/07/2017 12:57:03:
... I think the cross slide on the ML4 is rigid enough and also doesn't appear to have much 'play' in it. ... Nige Yes indeed but the booby trap is that a lathe cross-slide isn't designed to deal with milling forces. Normally the cross-side pushes a single-point tool against the work. The force on the tool is pretty much in one direction and the cross-slide is engineered to deal with it. Also, because the force is unidirectional, any slack and backlash in the system are taken up and held as the cut is applied. It's a stable arrangement that works well. Milling applies dramatically different forces and it doesn't help that a milling cutter has much bigger cutting edges than a lathe tool. Because the tool is spinning, so is the direction of the cut. The cross-slide is forced down, right, up and left repeatedly. It is pushed hard in directions the lathe designer never took seriously. And any slack in the screws and gibs will allow enough movement to cause trouble. The best way to get a feel for what works and what doesn't on your lathe is to try it. It's very educational! Dave There is really no fundamental difference in the construction of the slides between a lathe and a mill in my experience. The biggest differences appear when you get to the headstock in terms of collets and drawbars rather than a chuck, and the arrangement and movement of the slides is obviously different. If anything, a modern lathe relying on a polyform bedway slide is more rigidly constructed than a simple vee groove simply to counteract the twisting motion Imposed on the saddle during rack feed. Probably one of the main reasons why my Clarke never had a rack and pinion feed (simply directly bolted to the feednut and handle. (You may have seen the post on my failed experiment with a rack/pinion feed, due to the reason outlined above, though I think I may have found a clever workaround, it'll work this time I think!) As far as I know my mill uses vee groove slides, one thing I would agree is that with a mill it's a lot heftier than the cross slide though, as the travel tends to be far shorter on a lathe. In theory with a sensible set up there is no reason why he couldn't do milling on a lathe, I have milled a cast iron piece on the lathe before and found I could take quite a cut with it. Just make sure those bolts are done up tight on the vise, Nigel! Michael W
Edited By Michael-w on 09/07/2017 21:04:15 |
09/07/2017 14:58:58 |
Posted by Ady1 on 09/07/2017 13:25:54:
When I did a fair bit of milling on a Myford M series I found I could cut a 12mm slot two to three times faster with a 6mm endmill compared to a 12mm endmill, and it did a better neater job. The smaller endmills have more torque at the tip = more cutting power The differences in diameter appear tiny but the difference in workrate can be amazing on a small machine It's probably the same reason why many would find it easier to drill a smaller hole before drilling a much larger hole. There's simply less work for it to do. Michael W |
Thread: A bunch more puzzling tools |
08/07/2017 01:12:27 |
Posted by Neil Wyatt on 07/07/2017 20:42:47:
I had never seen a drill like No. 4 until a few months ago when I bought a set of drills with countersink collars from Lidl (I thought I could reverse the collars to use them as depth stops, if nothing else.. T Neil I think I bought the same set not so long ago, very strange looking drills, I don't think I've seen them before, like a single point drill. I think it was worth it just for the stop collars and countersinks, I think I only paid about £6 for it. Michael W |
Thread: Not another bloody text book ! |
06/07/2017 11:44:06 |
A time and place for everything, even the ones that the boring old farts are interested in. They deserve to have a voice too. The beginners get plenty of scope in M.E.W. I believe reading a while ago that in the M.E magazine, possibly written by stan bray, saying how that the M.E magazine always deferred from using construction/project articles in favour of write ups of complete models and their usage, rather than making them, since why the need for M.E.W arose in the first place. Sometimes I like a bit of what's outside the known, or expected subject area, for example, this months (M.E.W - I don't have an M.E subscription, only occasional purchase of that) issue on making a flute, I haven't got the faintest clue or interest in making flutes, yet I still enjoyed learning about it. Michael W Edited By Michael-w on 06/07/2017 11:48:03 Edited By Michael-w on 06/07/2017 11:50:17 |
Thread: Bright Mild Steel vs Black Mild Steel |
05/07/2017 22:24:56 |
Posted by Neil Wyatt on 05/07/2017 20:37:53:
If you mill away one side of a bright bar, it can bend like a banana, I've done it. If you machine it symmetrically, e.g. for a shaft you rarely get issues. Neil this is fairly standard practice for flat bar too, if you mill one side at full depth, you will often find you have trouble holding the size due to the inherent stresses. But if you take both sides, half as deep, you'll get a more accurate cut. They will also be more parallel to each other. Michael W
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05/07/2017 22:21:55 |
When I buy metric plastic stock it often comes a good deal oversize to the nominal, for e.g I buy 22mm Nylon 6.6, and it actually measures 22.7mm, However, the roundness of the extruded bar is often left to be desired, so I presume this is the reason why it seems a fair deal over 22. Michael W |
Thread: Superglue Activator |
05/07/2017 17:16:07 |
Posted by Hacksaw on 05/07/2017 13:51:48:
breathe cigarette smoke on it .. I hate to disagree with you but I think it's not the sort of habit we should be recommending! Michael W |
Thread: 3D Printer Test Piece |
05/07/2017 17:12:46 |
Posted by Gary Wooding on 05/07/2017 07:32:50:
Posted by Michael-w on 04/07/2017 19:04:50:
At the moment i'm trying to learn using freecad, but it's a little clunky to find things, compared to the ancient prodesktop CAD I learnt at school where you established workplanes and so on to build up a component. Is there any other good free CAD software someone can recommend? Michael W Try Fusion 360, which is usually totally free for home use. It works in much the same way you described Prodesktop CAD as working. TurboCAD (which I've used for many years) is capable, but rather cumbersome in comparison. I now use TurboCAD exclusively for 2D drawings, and Fusion for all my 3D work. Thanks, i'll let you know how I get on with it. The Prodesktop was very simple and really had, when I think back on it, a very good way of cataloguing all the different things you can do with it. It isn't that freecad doesn't provide these things, it's just they make it more annoying to find. Michael W
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04/07/2017 19:04:50 |
I'm about 90% of the way of setting up my printer,(Kosselmini clone, running on Arduino mega 2560 and Marlin program) all the firmware has finally been installed, I've nearly mastered the controls for pronterface and set up the Arduino to run the software. At the moment i'm trying to learn using freecad, but it's a little clunky to find things, compared to the ancient prodesktop CAD I learnt at school where you established workplanes and so on to build up a component. Is there any other good free CAD software someone can recommend? Michael W |
Thread: Model Engineer - Citizen Scientist |
04/07/2017 16:20:36 |
Posted by Martin Kyte on 04/07/2017 09:59:34:
The only way to really change things is to fill the house of commons with engineers. Perhaps that way we might get problems solve instead of just rebranded. This will probably end up sounding conceited to some, but this "problem" of a lack of practical, able, willing politicians has far more to it than meets the eye. I think the main difference is that governments of previous generations didn't get paid to be an MP, you had to do something else in order to get money. Whilst this meant that inevitably all MPs were rich, who just wanted the job as a hobby, you could construe this as a good thing because they wanted to be there for reasons other than financial gain, yes, a corrupt steel magnate might look to vote in favour of policies that support his industry, but he actually has to win the argument first. It means you can't get elected just simply because you want a comfortable salary. Now you can just sit on your laurels and do nothing if it so inclined you. You don't even have to turn up if you want, and that's why weve got more politicians than ever, who can't seem to get an awful lot done. Michael W Edited By Michael-w on 04/07/2017 16:29:37 |
03/07/2017 09:42:45 |
Posted by Bob Stevenson on 03/07/2017 09:27:13
there's not much room for amateurs to get inviolved with bridge building or aerospace..... There was a news story not so long ago about a British kid finding a logical flaw in nasa's althogorims for finding habitable planets that lead to much bigger predictions than was truly possible, no expertise and the whole agency missed it. |
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