Member postings for Chris Evans 6

John, Automotion's site gives the nut dimensions. It may be possible to split one or ask them or another similar supplier to make a special to your requirements.

If you are changing a pair of nut/leadscrew it does not matter if thread form differs. Just pick correct pitch, their imperial pitches are listed as acme. For my lathe cross slide I went up from 15 to 16 mm diameter to suit availability of pitch. Chris.

Have a look at Automotion Components web pages. Lead screws and nuts of all sizes and pitches are available.

I have just bought a 1 metre length of lead screw for about £16 plus nut for similar money all plus tax/delivery.(longer lengths up to 3 metre available)

A bit of simple turning to suit the ends and I will be up and running. No connection just a happy customer.

They come up in Old Bike Mart at times but good ones are around the £1200 mark.Brilliant little bike loved by many. Heed what Tim says though and check the rear mudguard/seat pan they rot big time.

You may get away with setting up a piece of 3/4" (19.05) between centres and polishing a couple of thou off it and maybe a thou or so taper. Then assuming the inside diameter of the tube is OK warm with a heat gun and slip it on the mandrel. Turn to size then warm to remove, you may need to wrap some emery round it to help get it off when warm.

I concur Bob, the sort of thing most of us are turning out the quality of slips is good enough. My set was made up from several old boxes that where lying around unused at work. If I am setting up a sine bar I put a micrometer on the stack as a check anyway.

If the plus gas soak does not free them try a gentle heat with a heat gun. Not to warm though there are springs in there.

Had a BIG tidy up in the workshop today and completed the engine build on my pre war bike. Then started to make a new carburettor slide for it.

Sounds like very high carbon. Bin it and start again with a known quantity.

That looks home made to me. I have seen most variations on the Clarkson theme.

Hi Roger, as promised I looked for a manual when I visited my old work place. Sorry to say I did not find one.

I have a full imperial set, used for checking slot widths/setting sine bars/marking out/checking micrometers. The list is endless.

Most machine oils are specified to a DIN number. I use the 68 as slide oil and in the apron and 32 in the headstock.

32 is a hydraulic oil but used in a lot of lathes I scrounge it from where I used to work as they buy in 205 litre drums.

Where are you based ? if in an industrial area it is best to buy from stockists in 5 litre size much cheaper than the dealers 1 litre bottles.

Yes one of life's unsung heroes. I recently read his book the title of which eludes me at the moment.

If it won't take big cuts get the clutch adjustment checked out. I believe it is the same 600 group lathe we know as a Colchester Triumph. If the clutch is good it should get up to speed in a few seconds and not stall under load.

Can't help with the taper issue, I have run a few well worn ones of these and all turned good.

When I was running EDM machines here in the Midlands I bought off two companies. Erodex and Graphite Technologies. There are other suppliers but these where local to work.

Check out the EDM (spark erosion) suppliers for graphite. Where are you based ? a few suppliers here in the Midlands.

Gibraltar tool post. Thanks all for the information on them. I have just had a casting made to enable me to replace my weak cross slide. I will look into making a tool post and try to use it on the fixings for a radius / ball turning attachment I have also had cast.

I have an early Excel 14x40. Not bad for a Taiwan built lathe. Faults- weak cross slide/cross slide Vee's to narrow/ the saddle will not get close enough to the headstock for thin face plate work or for machining chuck back plates. Lots of tool overhang required. Zero response from Excel when enquiring about spares.

I have an outlet grill on mine that only opens when the extractor runs and blows it open. This week I fitted a new extractor which has a sort of non return flap that opens when running it also forms the connector to the outlet pipe. Have a rummage in B&Q or similar for the outer grill with the moveable flaps as that is easiest to change.