Member postings for Chris Evans 6

For tapping I use a copy of the Rocol the RTD paste made by Exol. It looks and performs the same, whilst tapping or using a die I also spray a tapping/drilling lube from a spray can which seems to ease the effort required.

Welcome along, first tip from me is to get hold of known materiel to play around with. I suggest EN1A as it is very forgiving. Trying to machine unknown stuff can be a road to misery, not knowing if is the materiel or your method. As David says pop up an approximate location

For me messing with those would be misdirected energy.

Hi Colin,

I will be interested in your rotary table project when completed, I have a 10" Vertex rotary that I have toyed with converting plus the huge 14" job for the bigger jobs.

I am not sure if I would ever get round to the conversion though, management is trying to keep me out of the workshop after I suffered a stroke. Wife's just don't understand how relaxing it can be.

Chris.

Colin, given the size of your mill the bigger rotary has to be the one. The very thought of trying to clamp work on a 4" table puts me off.

I remember our local gunsmiths workshop, he must have had over 100 wooden handled "Turnscrews" (his words) one would be chosen and filed to fit the screw.

Long distance trials cars where what held my interest, a Dellow followed by a Cannon sporting trials car then on to making my own. My love of motorcycles took over and still does so now.

A comment from another "Motorcyclist" I have been riding now for over 55 years and very rarely do I use a clutch for up changes on a bike. So much smoother without. Having said that I always use the clutch on my hand change bike.

Welcome along Sam, what sort of thing interests you to make on the lathe ?

My copy is from around 1912, has much changed since then ?

Take a look at your lawnmower to see if it has a Briggs and Stratton engine. Lots of little springs around the carburettor on those.

Have you returned all the levers to their original position ? Seems like you still have the leadscrew engaged or federate positions wrong. You should wind the tool away from the workpiece to return to the start position.

I believe John Harding is the Vintage Motorcycle Club marque specialist for Francis Barnet and James.

You only need to make a polystyrene pattern for one offs, I do so often. Biggest problem is finding a foundry that will do a cash job.

If you have metric slips multiply sine x 127 for 5" sine bar.

I have enough on going old motorcycle related work to still have plenty in three months time. Times like this I reap the benefit of stocking materiel in full bar lengths.

OK I've found the chuck and jaws. The chuck catalogue number is 9580??1705

Stamped on the front is T03604 Stamped on the back 589 Stamped on jaws 680

Key sizes are 18mm sliding width,7.3 from bottom of scroll teeth to slot 7,3 Slot size 7mm

Let me know if of any use.

To keep the speed of opening and closing it will be desirable to keep close to the 6 tpi.

I would favour you bolt a block/plate on the back or even a bronze standard available lead screw nut with a flange and screw to suit. Take a look at places like Automotion Components for off the shelf parts, more precision than the machine requires but cost effective.

I will look for them in the workshop tomorrow and put some sizes up on here.

Square Peg, what is you location ? I have a set here (if I look hard enough) I bought a new chuck when I could not afford a new set of standard jaws. The old chuck is still in the workshop, with all the variations on chucks you would need to try for fit.