Member postings for Chris Evans 6

Not sure where you are based but I use a good and helpful aluminium foundry up here in the West Midlands. It is possible to "Wax " the original component to allow for some of the contraction. I would still as suggested machine from solid in a good spec aluminium though.

Yeah but the mechanic does not do the job with the engine running.

It is not unusual to give a draw bar a tap to free a taper. Just leave a few threads engaged to protect the threads. I will look for a manual when I visit the place I retired from as they have a similar machine there gathering dust. The machine could be for sale but moving it would cost many times more than it is worth due to being up on a first floor location, it was installed by crane before the premises next door where built !

I have seen "Rebuilt" Colchester student lathes when I was looking to replace the South Bend heavy ten I had for over 45 years. Other than paint to make them look nice I was not convinced any real work had been done, most things just had checked/working OK on the list. I would expect new lead screws and nuts, reground ways and a near new machine performance for the close to £10000 asking price. I ended up with a Taiwanese 14x40 lathe. For the money (it was a used machine) it is doing all I need. Design faults are present, a weak cross slide that I am going to remake with castings being done this week. Also the saddle does not get close enough to the head stock for face plate work without hanging the tool out a lot. But as said it does all I really ask of it.

Welcome along from a recently joined member. Where are you in the world ?

Plus one for the left hand tool.

Welcome to the forum Roger, I am a fairly new member and find the posting interesting.

I have read the book and many others on the same subject. We all take computers for granted but without Turing and his work we might not have them. Binary numbers ? the guy was just awesome.

An interesting find, I know nothing about it but is it worth saving ?

I have seen plans around for making a dial engraver. My Brother in law has just completed one, he made his own pattern for part of it to be cast rather than fabricate it from solid. He lives in France so the casting was done here in UK.

I have never built a loco but did have to estimate/price work when I ran an injection mould toolroom. Before I read Jason's post 1000 hours had come to mind. With that thought think about how many hours a week you will really put in, add on frustration of sourcing materiel and you have some idea. I do not build models; motorcycle restoration is my thing and it is months not weeks to make progress.

I to am tempted with a 240 volt unit. I have got my Bridgeport unit to run after help from this board, however it does not run very well. The motor was full of oil due to a failed seal and no amount of cleaning seems to improve things. There is also questionable wiring from a previous owner, I am not sure if the wiring circuit is correct as some wires had been cut and just twisted together.

I always buy HSS taps and dies but I recently bought some new old stock Presto dies thinking I was buying my usual quality. However when they arrived they did not have HSS on them and the package had CS, from that I assume Presto also make carbon steel dies. I will put them to one side and only use them for cleaning up existing threads.

Edited By Chris Evans 6 on 04/02/2016 08:56:20

We need to know the model of student. Cam lock or LO ?

Thanks for the clarification Ian, to many Marks at one time !

For setting up with DTI turn a sleeve to slip over the threads, anything quick and easy plastic/aluminium etc.

Mark P, you are most likely better getting one of these machines than a well worn ex industrial job. Unless you know where the machine is from/condition etc. they can cost a lot to refurbish.

I have a Bridgeport turret mill but space and budget are a whole different story. I think that for the money a lot of the hobby mills produce some nice work.

I spent the day mainly tidying the workshop after a hectic few days on motorcycle parts for other folk.

Then got round to fitting a strip light on the lathe splash back guard, well shielded in a light box it looks like it will be useful. One day soon I must do some work on my own stuff.

I do have a 24"x24" surface plate but as it is usually covered in junk most checking/marking out is done on the mill table. I set a plunger clock up on a magnetic base and zero to slip gauges if required. Lots of home made styli to get on to ledges.