Thanks Noel. I've been VERY good (honest!)

Brian

Collected the 340 copies of .E. today and was surprised to find 3 or 4 copies from 1926/7. The seller also asked if I was interested in another box containing Practical Mechanicals dated in the mid 1950's; naturally I said yes so now I have plenty to read over the holiday period.

A set of drawings would still be nice though!

Brian

Edited By Brian H on 15/12/2021 18:37:37

I don't know if this helps;

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/393668757108?hash=item5ba87c8674:g:VHEAAOSwWGBhgVE-

All the best with your lathe.

Brian

I've just tracked down a copy of ME Vol 139 Issue 3479 21 December 1973 to go with the 340 copies of ME for 1953 to 1959 that I've bought. That gives me plenty of reading over the Christmas period and means that I have a good excuse (if one were needed), to avoid the abysmal offerings on the TV.

Happy Christmas to you all.

Brian

Hello Steve, nice work. What are they intended for?

Brian

Hello Drew and welcome. I'm afraid that I cannot help with your Sieg but I'm sure that someone on here will be able to help.

I'm about 20 miles South of you near Mansfield.

Brian

Posted by shaun meakin 1 on 06/12/2021 09:46:26:

(Quote) If you have flux powder we recommend mixing it into a paste with water and a few drops of washing up liquid. The detergent helps keep the powder in suspension, it also acts as an extra degreaser and if the flux goes hard it will remix with water and a few more drops of washing up liquid.

Shaun.

End Quote)

This advice from Shaun is exactly what the Rolls-Royce Aero specification advises and if it's good enough for R-R then it's certainly good enough for anyone.

Brian

In the defence industry, when using stainless for studs and nuts, the studs would always be silver plated to prevent cold welding. The silver acts as a lubricant.

It would be an idea to check with your boiler inspector to confirm that stainless is acceptable. And you need to be sure as to the grade of stainless. Personally, I would use 316.

Brian

It must have been your lucky day Martin. I like the B&S and Starrett tools. Shardlow were an especially good quality make, I have a couple of their mics, one of which is a mechanical digital model.

Brian

Just checked again on Reeves site and the price for the full drawing set is a more reasonable £75.00.

Brian

Does anyone know why Reeves sell the drawings for Lion (Titfield Thunderbolt) at over £100 whilst Sarik sell them for just over £50?

Brian

All very strange! I've renewed mine twice. online. with no problems whatsoever.

Brian

Many thanks to Dave, Derek and Nick for the information and clarification. All i need to do now is to track down the relevant ME's and understand what I need to do. I should point out that I am a reasonably experience model engineer with a good workshop and would like to build a reasonably authentic Lion but without striving to get every detail absolutely correct and not to take too long doing it as I'm not getting any younger!

Brian

Many thanks for the useful replies. I now understand that the Saxby modifications relate to changing the valve gear from 'gab' to Stevenson's and that 'gab would have been as per the original loco.

I would prefer not to stray too far from original and so would prefer to retain 'gab'. I'm not too interested in performance, if the engine manages to do a circuit of my club track then that would be fine.

Are there any builders out there who would comment on how well the loco builds and runs?

Brian

I'm hanging my nose over LBSC's model of Lion and came across references to alterations by Saxby.

Can someone explain anything about these? I am especially interested in the reasons why they were made and what advantages they give.

Brian

Hello Ian and welcome.

Brian

Hello Jason, yes, I have a few pictures of the finished engine but more are always welcome. Just after the engine was finished and steam tested, some lunatic in the Dept of Transport changed the rules so that running in ANY public place, including a private drive without lockable gates, would be subject to the full weight of the laws on road transport, stopping just short of having a man with a red flag walk in front. This was later scaled back to what we have today but, at the time, I completly lost interest in operating model road steam engines and sold the Fowell-Box to buy a 1928 Austin Seven Tourer.

After I've finished my Burrell-Boydel engine in 1.5 inch scale, and the 1/4 scale 1896 Ford, I need something else to build and a 1.5 inch scale Fowell-Box sounds nice (but so do many other things)

Brian

Many thanks for your kind offer Chris, the only pictures that I have are the ones in a report on the ME Exhibition where it won a Gold Medal.

PM sent

Brian

I've often wondered what became of a model engine that I built years ago and I'm sure that I've found it; it's in the

Rahmi M. Koç Museum

which is in Istanbul!

(Sorry, I don't know how to reduce the size of the name)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFE2ro8KKqk

Brian

Edited By Brian H on 05/11/2021 14:14:22

Edited By JasonB on 06/11/2021 06:53:43

Hello Steve and welcome. It sounds like you mean business with the machinery and tooling that you have.

I assume that you will be machining soon, but, what are your interests? locomotives, road vehicles, ships engines, making tooling or something else?

Whatever your interests, there will be people on here willing to help, they're a good bunch.

Brian