Member postings for Brian H

I agree, incredible efforts and incredible engines. Shame about the music.

For "fay" read "far"

I would agree with previous posts that Imperial is best if making models of items that were originally built in inches, it makes scaling easier.

I joined a company as an apprentice where all the drawings and tooling were imperial for making large diesel and gas engines for ships, generators and pumping oil and water but then they decided to build a metric diesel engine under licence.

They decided, quite rightly in my opinion, to redraw the drawings in Engish but retaining the metric measurements and to re-equip all departments concerned with metric equipment.

All the workers in those departments were instructed to work in metric and not to convert from one to the other. That worked very well.

I was happy to use metric measurements until the government of the day said " you will get used to metric measurements in everyday life".

That did it, I no longer use metric measurements in England as fay as possible and always ask for items in Imperial.

Have a look at Martin Evans 5" Terrier Tank engine. Reeves and others do the castings.

The engine is close to scale and is only about 2ft long so is not too difficult to lift. There was a build series in ME many years ago and quite a number have been built so no nasty surprises.

I think that it is important to really like what you are going to build as youmay take several years doing it.

All the best with whatever you decide.

I don't really want to ban anything, just want leaving alone to do what I want and not upset anyone else.

I use a 5% solution for pickling copper etc. It is slower in action but at least parts do not come out lacy!

I keep mine in a plastic tub intended for do-it-yourself beer brewing. The lid is a really tight snap-on one that does not leak.

The container should be marked with labels to explain exactly what is inside.

DO NOT use used battery acid as it will contain lead that will seriously contaminate anything dipped into it.

Not much to do with model engineering, personally I'm sick to death of the Olympics, football, cricket, rugby, (non) brexit, the labour party etc.

Already sent my entry form off and hoping for a free cup of tea after 130.6 miles (if I go the short way!)

During my apprenticeship we were always instructed to break in new files and brass components or scrap brass before using them on cast iron or steel.

I remember a fiendish test where we had to file out a 1" square hole in a plate and then file up a 1" cube so that it would fit without rattling in every possible way of fitting it.

All the very best Ron, I'm sure there will be many crossed fingers!

Indeed Michael. The post was supposed to be in "what have you done today". Sorry

Went to Kelham Island museum in Sheffield for a 1940's event and saw the huge engine being run, and almost instantly reversed.

Very impressive.

Hello Ian and welcome.

I once used Loctite to build a loco crankshaft and it moved whilst setting. I had to heat it to a dull red before it reluctantly came apart. That convinced me how good the product was.

It is important to choose the correct grade and to clean everything thoroughly before assembly. The joint can be moved to correct any errors but only for a short time.

I think not quite as elegant as this one I saw in the Netherlands a few years ago.

Easi-Flo is silver solder but you may have problems getting hold of some due to the Cadmium content.

Easi-Flo No 2 is the one with the lowest melting point at around 620 deg C but the modern replacement is Silverflo 55 at a melting point of 660 deg C.

My 1931 Austin Seven RN has been adjusted so that I now have brakes and an engine that doesn't stall at every traffic light . It's also got a new 6volt battery so that it starts instantly on the electric starter on the rare occasions that it does stall.

This is so that I can take it to Autokarna at Wollaton Hall near Nottingham this weekend.

I'm not sure that this grade can be hardened