Member postings for Bodger Brian

After managing to get my wall clock into some sort of better state than it was when it came into my possession, I rashly told my father that I would attempt to get a non-working mantle clock of his going again. This one is non-striking & I figured that it would be a far easier thing to cut my teeth on with regard to a total overhaul.

Having taken the movement out of the case, it does indeed look a lot simpler. However....

There is mechanism that I have never seen before (nor can I find anything similar from trawling the internet). It consists of a rod that protrudes through the face just above the 12 o'clock position & is connected though a pair of small gears to a vertical shaft within the block that holds the suspension spring. Turning it doesn't appear to do anything. What is the purpose of this? It may become more obvious before I strip it down but I would like to know what to be prepared for.

My other question is with regard to the suspension spring itself. It is obviously bent & will need to be replaced but I having trouble locating a suitable replacement from one of the on-line clock part suppliers. To my un-tutored eye it appears to be a simple strip, the top end of which is clamped into the afore-mentioned block, whilst the other end has a slightly thicker section that carries the pin(s) for suspending the pendulum.

I cannot find a single-ended spring like this (only double ended) - am I merely looking for the wrong thing or is it something that will need to be made form scratch?

Brian

Just to bring this thread to a natural end, I'd just like to say many thanks to those who have taken the time to patiently answer my perhaps naïve questions - it's been much appreciated.

After many a long hour of tweaking, I've managed to get an even beat and although the pendulum still doesn't hang quite correctly, it's a big improvement on what it was. I've decided that I need to accept that at this moment in time because of my inexperience I'm not going to improve matters, so the clock is now hanging in our hallway. All that remains is to adjust the pendulum bob - it's currently losing about 1 minute over a couple of days.

I now have a non-running mantle clock in my possession, which I intend to strip down and get back into running order. I feel a new thread coming on.....

Brian

Woman; without her, man is nothing

Woman; without her man, is nothing

Slight difference in punctuation, totally different meaning.

Brian

I once spent a good five minutes wandering around looking for a particular screwdriver, only to realise that I was holding it in my hand!

Brian

Thanks - I had seen that page. It was just the discrepancy between the actual gauge & the theoretical gauge using those scales that made me question it..

Brian

Taking 7.25" gauge for instance, 4' 8.5" equates to a scale of 1:7.79, which strikes me as a bit of an strange number. If a scale of 1:8 was used, this would give a gauge of 7.0625". Am I right in assuming that 7.25" models are generally 1:8 scale and the difference of 0.1875" (3/16" is lost/absorbed somehow in the running gear?

Edited By Bodger Brian on 31/05/2018 20:37:09

If your church has bells, I would strongly advise ensuring that the local bell-ringers are on board prior to any planning for installation of any telecoms equipment. I've heard a few horror stories about installations that have caused difficulties for ringers or even prevented ringing of the bells.

The Central Council of Church Bell ringers (CCCBR) has produced a leaflet giving guidance in this respect :-

**LINK**

If there is no local band, pay particular heed to the penultimate paragraph.

Brian

Very commonly used...

Brian

Basically they're 0R resistors, used in this instance as links. The black band 'follows 'the standard resistor band coding, black signifying zero.

The resistor type package is probably used so that it can be auto-inserted by machine. A simple wire link couldn't be handled that way and would need hand insertion.

Brian

Urban myth, I think.

Brian

Redsetter - not patronising at all. Apologies if the following comes across the same way.

To summarise :- I had removed the hands & dial & cleaned the pivots (without dismantling the movement), then re-oiled. The clock had previously been running continuously but with the pendulum offset / not hanging vertically. All of my latest travails had been an effort to rectify that. It was also pointed out by a previous poster that one of my photographs showed the movement stopped with a pallet on top of one of the escape wheel instead of in front of it, which should be rectified - hence my adjustment of the back-cock.

I had found that adjustment is difficult - hence my asking if anybody had any hints or tips on how to make small adjustments.

Brian

Edited By Bodger Brian on 11/02/2018 21:34:06

Thanks for all of the comments, gents. I know some of them contradict others but all are welcome.

I made the decision to try adjusting the crutch on it’s arbour. Bad move! All that achieved was that the pendulum still hung at the same angle & the pallets were now totally out of position with the teeth of the escape wheel. I managed to get it back where it was (I think), then applied a bit of tweaking to the crutch (as shown in the drawing posted by Fowler’s Fury).

This resulted in a case of one step forward, one step back. The pendulum now hung vertically (or as close as I think I’ll get it) but the clock refused to run. I then slackened off the two screw on the bracket holding the suspension spring & adjusted it’s position (and hence the relationship between pallets & escape wheel). Admittedly by more luck than judgement, after a lot of blood, sweat & naughty words, I managed to get it to run. Here come the next questions :-

1) When I managed to get it to run, it only did so for a short period, one or two hours at the most, no matter how often I set it running. I’ve now come back to it after a few days, set it running again & it’s been running for over 10 hours. Why would it not run successfully now but not earlier, with no adjustments being done in between?

2) I found it very difficult to make small adjustments to the bracket. Not slackening the screws enough meant that the bracket couldn’t be moved, whilst slackening them too much meant that the bracket would drop under it’s own weight & I’d have to start again. Any hints or tips in this respect?

Brian

Edited By Bodger Brian on 11/02/2018 20:07:31

Thanks - I think I understand. Perhaps I should have said "...but I was worried that doing so without knowing what I was doing would upset the relationship between the pallets & the escape wheel.."

Now you've explained it, I feel a bit more confident in doing so.

Brian

I hasten to say that the mangled screws are not my doing! There are number of others in the same state which indicate that it has been 'got at' previously.

I did wonder about slackening the screws & adjusting that way but I was worried that doing so would upset the relationship between the pallets & the escape wheel (is that the right term?). Although the pendulum is off centre, the clock is running.What appears to be wrong with the pallets? Would the fact that they are wrong be accounted for by a previous adjustment of the support?

Brian

Edited By Bodger Brian on 31/01/2018 14:14:06

I’ve just had a look & the crutch appears to be held on the crutch with a split collet / collar. If so, I presume I should be able to simply twist the crutch on the arbour. Is that a reasonable assumption?

Brian

I'm curious - why do you say that the taper pins need to go back in their original hole? I was intending to replace them, as the originals are very rough and ready.

Life has got in the way of workshop time once again but I'm now back on the job.

The hands & dial were removed without any drama & the pivots cleaned and oiled. I've created a simple clamping device so that I can fix the movement to the side of my work bench & work on it unhindered by the case.

First the good news - I set the movement horizontal and started it running yesterday. 24 hrs later, it's still going. Now the bad news - having set the movement horizontal, the pendulum doesn't hang vertically when stationary and has a distinct bias to one side when swinging (if the movement is tilted so that the pendulum hangs on the centre line of the movement, it refuses to run properly). Is the this an indication that the suspension spring is bent (I don't think it looks as if it is) or that the back cock is in need of adjustment?

Brian

Thanks Jason - i’m glad it’s not me going ga-ga.

Brian

I don’t subscribe so I can’t actually check but is there a mix-up with the text and picture when the ‘Model Engineer Magazine’ section in the banner at the top of the home page is clicked on?

The banner lists Loco Lamps, Trivet Engine, Wide-a-wake & Family Rallying but the page that results lists a whole load of other stuff but none of those. In addition, is the latest edition really dated 24th November?

I hope that makes sense!

Brian

NOTICE IS HEREBY GIVEN:

Please be advised that anyone planning to dash through the snow in a one-horse open sleigh, going over the fields and laughing all the way are required to undergo a full Risk Assessment addressing the safety of open sleighs. This assessment must also consider whether it is appropriate to use only one horse for such a venture, particularly where there are multiple passengers.

Please note that permission must also be obtained in writing from landowners before their fields may be entered.

To avoid offending those not participating in celebrations, we request that laughter is moderate only and not loud enough to be considered a noise nuisance and therefore must not occur after 11pm and before 7am.

Benches, stools and orthopedic chairs are now available for collection by any shepherds planning or required to watch their flocks at night.
While provision has also been made for remote monitoring of flocks by CCTV cameras from a centrally heated shepherd observation hut, all facility users are reminded that an emergency response plan must be submitted to account for known risks to the flocks.

The angel of the Lord is additionally reminded that prior to shining his/her glory all around s/he must confirm that all shepherds are wearing appropriate Personal Protective Equipment, including Eye Protection, to account for the harmful effects of UVA, UVB and the overwhelming effects of Glory.

Following last year’s well publicised case, everyone is advised that EC legislation prohibits any comment with regard to the ‘redness’ of any part of Mr. Rudolph Reindeer. Further to this, exclusion of Mr. Rudolf Reindeer from reindeer games will be considered discriminatory and disciplinary action will be taken against those found guilty of such an offence.

While it is acknowledged that gift-bearing is commonly practised in various parts of the world, everyone is reminded that the bearing of gifts is subject to Hospitality Guidelines and all gifts must be registered and where necessary, taxes and import duties paid as appropriate. This applies regardless of the individual -even royal personages.

It is particularly noted that direct gifts of currency or gold are specifically precluded under provisions of the Foreign Corrupt Practices Act. Further, caution is advised regarding other common gifts, such as aromatic resins that may initiate allergic reactions.

Finally, in the recent case of the infant found tucked up in a manger without any crib for a bed, Social Services and the Local Authority Safeguarding Board have been advised and will be fully investigating. The RSPA are also seeking reassurance that no donkeys were harmed during this incident.

Compliance of these guidelines is mandatory in order for you to fully participate with the festive spirit. Wishing you a very Merry Christmas (but bear in mind this must be under 107 milligrams per 100 millilitres of urine or 35 microgrammes per 100 millilitres of breath if driving – UK, Wales & Northern Ireland).

Regards,
The Christmas Regulatory & Assessment Panel (CRAP)

(I can’t claim originality - copied from elsewhere)

Brian

I agree about no such thing as stupid questions. There’s only stupid answers - not that i’ve had any of them, I should hasten to add!

Having had a look at the fixings for the dial & hands, I see that they’re tapered pins. I think I can cope with them, so I’m going to psych myself up. I’m just slightly nervous about damaging the dial when I remove the hands.

Regarding the oiling, I’ve had a look at Meadows & Passmore’s website and I think my choice of oils is between the Medmaw clock oil (0329 012515) & the Moebius small clock oil (0453 803015). Is that a reasonable deduction & does one have any advantage over the other?

Brian