Member postings for jann west

hehe ... as much as the acroprop is a bit amusing, a small bottle jack with an appropriate length of pipe as a spacer (and a spirit level on the drill table) is a reasonable solution.

I would imagine that 40KG + workpiece + downward pressure is pushing the drill beyond its intended design cone (and I do own one) ... You'll notice that the one on lathes.co.uk mounts the xy table on the base, where this is not a problem.

I'll grant automatic gearboxes are miles better than they were ... perhaps more efficient than a manual ... but automatic gearboxes can't engine brake ... seems like a compelling safetynet argument for slowing the car down if there is a brake failure ... perhaps going down a steep hill.

on the topic of "what difference does it make ... they all measure the same anyways"

Someone on youtube (AvE) did a teardown comparison of authentic v. knock off and IIRC found that there were very real differences in the battery draw when "powered off", and the subsequent deterioration of measurement accuracy with a deteriorated battery in the fake.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KnDype-j3hk

Me ... I solve the problem by using a vernier scale caliper and the ol' number 2 eyeball ... surprising how many people can't.

At the point where you have permanently shimmed your tools to centre hight, and have tool changes down to 30 sec. I'm not sure you will see sufficient benefits from a QCTP to justify the cost.

Me ... I like mine ... but I can't be bothered to permanently shim each and every tool ... and between chips and grit my 5 sec. tool changes are never quite so quick.

And you can't really realise the investment in QCTP unless you have one for every tool ... which gets quite expensive quite quickly.

If it ain't broke ...

The same sieg lathes are rebadged by a number of UK importers ... chester, warco, axminster, arc eurotrade.

If you are OK with 2nd hand and a little patient ... ebay and gumtree can unearth some bargains.

you could try the following ebay search:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_fcid=3&_clu=2&gbr=1&_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=%28sieg%2C%20axminster%2C%20chester%2C%20warco%29%20lathe&rt=nc&LH_ItemCondition=4&_trksid=p2045573.m1684

hehe! ... UK tools too ... https://thechocolateworkshop.co.uk/

Thanks for the replies so far.

Wout, Thanks for the suggestions ... I'm in Amsterdam Noord, but with a car I can happily travel.

Speelwerk, I've been to see Metaalwinkel in Amsterdam Zuid already, but they are quite expensive as you already mention (€300 / m2 for 10mm hot rolled steel ... but they do have a waterjet cutter, which is useful to know)

Any and all further suggestions welcome.

J

Does anyone have a recommendation for a supplier of smaller quantities of metal in the Netherlands that has a reasonable pricing?

Thanks in advance, and merry Christmas.

J

I have one, it has been for sale in NL for a week already. I consider to buy another.

It comes with a 3mm and a 6mm collet so it can use dremmel fittings. It has a locking spindle. Speed control is via a wheel, like their angle grinders with speed control, located at the rear by the switch. It is torque-y. Stickout from the body is 38mm. If you wanted to mount it the diameter for the mounting point collar is 39.5mm and the width is 15mm.

Price is amazing. Can't say what the build quality is without taking it apart, but I am impressed already. brushes are easily accessible for replacement (but spares not supplied)

weight is just under 1200g

J

yep, can confirm that network rail specifically outlaw acetelyene use by anyone renting or using one of their railway arches. Was a dealkiller for a friend of mine looking into one.

There are 5c - er40 collet adapters available from ebay, but they originalte and are posted from the far east. Having the same problem as you I purchased one. It works, but it does stick out somewhat from the face of the spindexer.

The only caveat it that tightening the collet is a little akward due to the nature of the construction ... you might consider a low-friction ball bearing collet nut like this one as a usefule improvement:

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Collets/ER-Collet-Nuts-Wrenches-and-Spanners/ER-Collet-Nuts-with-Ball-Bearing-Type-B

A beginners series on shop-made "apprentice tools" ... the tool pieces that you make as an apprentice which get gradually more difficult and require progressively more advanced skills ... would be a good way to give beginners regular small achievable projects and provide a platform to discuss the techniques required to complete them.

The South bend machine shop course for apprentice training (book 39B) has 12 simple projects along those lines which only require a lathe and some hand tools ... progressing from a nail punch, to an adjustable tap wrench, and including a machinist hammer and a small bench vice.

Further ideas:

It would perhaps also be an opportunity to provide a on online video supplement to the magazine for each project, emphasising learning along the lines of "hear it, see it, do it"

A thread could be started on this site each month to discuss any problems beginners are having with the project, and to display the results of their work.

Perhaps it would even be possible to arrange with a metal supplier to each month ship the required materials in appropriate lengths for the projects to interested subscribers for an appropriate fee.

It may well even be something fun for the more experienced among us.

just my 2c.

J

mwhahahaha ... Matthew 7:7

http://www.gizmowizard.com/deckeldapter/deckeldapter_main.htm

Apparently the global market was saturated at 20 units, but there is a plan on the site to DIY

But, like everyone else says, there's better ways to solve your problem.

Me, I'd send back your r8 collets, and buy a set of er40's (3-26) + the RDG extension box (27-30) and the R8 ER40 chuck and a suitable ER40 lathe spindle adapter

one suggestion I see in marine circles, after first having cleaned and prepped (but not acid etched), is to put on the first coat of paint and then lightly sand it. The logic is that you sand away the oxide into suspension with the paint, the paint then dries whilst providing a barrier to the formation of a new oxide layer.

a real mill ...

you can use a XY cross slide vice ... but drill presses are for drilling, not for milling. Jacobs chucks don't do a good job of holding milling cutters, and drill presses aren't designed for the tangential forces of milling.

unless you're planning on milling softwood or something similar it's not a great idea.

you've just spent over 1K on a mill ... spend another 100 on a 2 ton engine hoist ... delivered in a few days from either amazon or ebay. 20 sellers, 20 coats of paint, 1 identical hoist from 1 factory in China.

so ... the obvious answer is you need to peck the hole ... but another thing to check is that the drill is truly perpendicular in X and Y to the workpiece and also the feed direction. Because only a slight misalignment will also cause the effect described.

Might also try drying them off properly after use, rather than air drying ... see: https://www.reddit.com/r/LifeProTips/comments/1e5gfl/lpt_if_you_want_to_extend_the_life_of_your/

Edited By jann west on 25/11/2016 18:33:17

Saw this on eBay and was wondering what it would be used for. Someone obviously put a hell of a lot of effort into it.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PRECISION-12-POINT-CHUCK-COMPATIBLE-MYFORD-ML7-SUPER7-ENGINEERING-LATHE-UP-TO-2-/152277414137?hash=item237470f0f9:g:MQIAAOSwCGVX~sHD

Any good ideas? Holding pipe?

We are all infringing this one for a circular transport facilitation device ...

http://www.cs.virginia.edu/~gfx/courses/2002/BigData/papers/Misc/Wheel%20Patent.pdf