Member postings for iNf

Another vote for Onshape considerably less intimidating and complicated than f360, also doesn't require as much in system requirements to run. It may not be as capable as f360/solid edge but you would have to reach a very advanced level to notice. Also has the benefit of having apps you can use on your phone/ tablet to actually start/alter/modify designs most others are simply viewers. I've done all my designs using it since acquiring my printer in June. Also free to use without restrictions.

Edited By iNf on 03/10/2023 19:01:20

I'm afraid I don't know the advanced settings as I just selected the profile for my printer in the version of cura that came with it. Judging by the guide that came with the printer your Retraction settings are a lot different.

Regarding Shapr3D, it doesn't appear to have an Android app and the free version seems very restricted, whilst Onshape seems to have few restrictions and can work on any platform. I've not yet used it on the PC and solely used the android app to design/draw my print.

Dave

Thanks Rod

I've not explored different layer settings yet, so a lot to learn.

Bazyle

I suppose the prototype was my actual 1st print and that's quite small. As it printed ok I thought I'd give the full-size one a go

Hi Rod

I would be interested in details of your enclosure and ABS settings.

Thanks

Dave

It's not that interesting I'm afraid. It's just a pen, paper and cordless phone holder to fit in a niche in the wall !

Inordinately pleased with my 1st attempt at 3d printing

After spending ages debating wether to buy a printer, a sale on the creality website resulted in an Ender S1 Pro heading my way.

The start of a steep and slippery path with zero 3d and CAD experience.

The following design was created in the Onshape app on an Android tablet. As far as I know it's the only CAD app you can create/modify 3d models, other CAD apps just being viewers only.

Finished print with minime prototype

This was the 3rd attempt at printing this, the original was going to be slightly longer but was to long to fit on the bed so an attempt to print it vertically was curtailed by me when I realised it was going to take nearly 2 days! Due to the whole model having to be filled by supports. All part of the learning process. The 2nd attempt was also curtailed when some muppet turned off the power for the house ring main forgetting the only socket in the workshop spurred from the house circuit was the one that the printer was plugged into! A resume printing function was initiated and printing did resume but as the bed had cooled the base detached.

3rd time lucky

Dave

Finally got around to making a clamp tool post for my harrison m250, based on the one on my ml7. Only having 5 quick change holders quickly becomes a PITA. Added to that a lot of tooling I have is out of the adjustment range of the quick change holders.

Dave

Lol

Just a standard hacksaw and finish with a needle file

I don't have a proper abrafile, so I made a couple of adapters out of an old hinge to use in a hacksaw

Hi Richard

I've sent you a PM regarding a manual for a fb2 clone if you are interested

Dave

This website might have what you need. I've bought from them in the past.

spring fasteners

Dave

Make sure the grubscrew is actually turning and not just the allen key turning in the socket. The handle itself will probably also unscrew and there is often another grubscrew underneath. Also they are usually on splines and can be tight to slide off.

Dave

Made some coloured chips, it's nice being able take decent d.o.c/feeds. The Ml7 is sulking in the corner

Just seen this online machine light

Might be useful for someone

Dave

Thank you Michael.

John, I'll probably leave the taper on until in need to use it with longer material.

Dave

I had long thought about getting some hex/square collet blocks and the recent thread on Chinese collets collets.

Reminded me that I had a Chinese collet chuck and collets lying unused since getting an er25 chuck. So I set about combining the two. Recently installing a dro on the mill meant that backlash is no longer a problem. So with the help of this online calculator

I set about turning the chuck into a Dodecagon (12 sided )

I attended yesterday. It was my 1st show and was far busier than I expected. There seemed a reasonable amount of traders but not as many models on display as I was expecting. Especially enjoyed the larger scale traction engines on the field. Bargains are probably unlikely to be had on most new items but buying multiple items from the same seller can lead to some bargaining.

The 2 lumps of metal were priced at a total of £40 I paid £30 but postage saved would likely be substantial. Milling cutters £1 each, ( it pays to look under some of the stalls as they have so much stuff they can't display it all) dormer woodruff cutter £5 from the same seller. The alloy rods cost the same as the Milling cutters! Die from Tracy tools and flux from cup, normal retail prices. I was happy with my purchases.

Dave

Edited By iNf on 14/10/2022 18:37:18

Got my dro from vevor installed, with a readout of the total available travel on the x and y axis.

During the install I stripped the table down completely and adjusted the feedscrew nuts for backlash, ending up with 0.15mm on x and 0.20mm on y, although I guess it doesn't really matter with the dro installed. I also had to fit a 'sophisticated' bed stop and brush up on my ironing skills to alter the bed cover.

The x axis scale was cut to size using the bandsaw and seemed to do a good job.

Just the cables to tidy up and the x axis scale cover to fit.

Dave.

Edited By iNf on 11/10/2022 18:52:33

Thank you for the replies. It was interesting looking through the catalogues linked to as I have several of the items in the sykes one, including the cylinder ridge reamer. I wonder if it is used much today?

Can anyone please help identify this item, it's been sitting in one of my toolboxes for years. I inherited it from my Dad and have never been sure what it's for. The ground down bit of the square piece had obviously seen a lot of use from the business end of a hammer.