Member postings for Dave Halford

Edited By Dave Halford on 03/06/2015 14:25:30

Edited By Dave Halford on 03/06/2015 14:26:22

I would have said from the second pic the drill has been thinned too much. The cutting edge looks to have gone in the center.

I've got a Holzmann myself and I've noticed it's quite sensitive to hand feed variation which can give an off center grind effect if you don't take care.

It shouldn't need resetting for the second grind unless the second grinding station is set too high.

All I have done is regrind on the same setting if it looks off and that seems to fix it.

Only if you buy 50 of them.

For me the great thing about attending the shows is you can compare quality / finish by walking across the room.

Get a Centec 2A or 2B, then you have room for a rotary table + you dont have sensitive circuit boards to blow from lack of use nor plastic gears to break from minor beginers miss-treatment.

This to watch for -

Holes in the table

A lot of backlash in the lead screws.

Gears are always noisy anyway

I've not got the manual, but my QDM is the same - a balance weight, otherwise the gear shift takes too long to operate.

It's fair to say that you can't make all the parts to drawing and then assemble at the end like a pre machined kit.

These drawing were done to meet magazine deadlines, pre PC, drawn on paper and thats it. Errors were sometimes corrected in the magazine and sometimes errors crept in.

In other words, it was all a bit rushed and too hard to fix later.

Everything will need checking

Edited By Dave Halford on 12/03/2015 15:32:55

I have a 90 which had belt slip when I got it. That was do to wear on the saw frame guide hex and arm, filing a relief chamfer front and rear of the guide to allow it to dodge the wear ridge fixed that. If yours comes with a very loose guide thats the reason why.

You should have two bits of bent rod sticking out of the dash pot, one attached to the arm and one free. Twisting the free one (half turn) will change the damping rate least to most. Engine oil works fine in mine. If the oils is too thick or too much damping selected your cut rate will be pathetic. Mine is happy with an 18tpi blade, but it has a bigger motor than yours. It will still bind and stall if the work piece moves in the vice, also watch outboard support.- too much and the cut closes on the last strokes, binds, stalls the blade and gives a smoking belt.

Make sure the crank rod is oiled properly.

Enjoy fairly quiet cutting

The Qualters & Smith QDM 750 is a close match but the belt cover only moves upwards to get at the pin. There a knob to twist to engage back gear. The Later Kerrys are similar.

No oil to spill either.

PS Fobco  £200 - Qualters £50 guess which I bought

Edited By Dave Halford on 03/03/2015 12:44:15

I'am afraid Bob Brown is right -- it's the wooden shed.

Giant B&Q sites do 25mm thick 8 x 4 sheets of polystyrene for £7 each totally lining the shed will

1. prevent the wood from affecting the inside air during the damp days of winter.

2. Help sound proof it

3. Not cost a lot

Then all you need is a light film of oil on exposed metal

In which case look for a Centec 2B

Cebora do a 130 gas /no gas Mig.

You need a different wheel as well as a different tip as no gas wire is thicker- the gas no gas one has two tracks of different size.

It has connectors for earth and power on the outside and you just swap them.

There is also a rocker switch that you need to operate - no idea why.

Mine came with fluxed wire awful stuff - went and bought a DIY small refillable bottle and ran it on gas even outside it's fine, you can use a lump of cardboard to the worst of the wind off.

If you test it with the gas off it sounds different and looks bad, all you then do is turn up the gas till it sounds better and looks good.

Do not buy disposable cans of gas they are way too expensive

My Father in law had 'a Rown Tuit ' cunningly disquised as plate. Funny how Tuits are never square.

Chris

Ask them to butt weld the plate, if they start talking about joddlers go somewhere else. More expensive but you only do it once not twice.

Any kind of lap joint gives a nice condensation trap on the side you cant paint and welded steel rusts faster.

You'll sometimes see a line of tiny bubbles all around a lapped/joddled repair on older classics.

PS Check your sill drains

To Quote Lathejack

"Alright, they can flex a bit with their thin light castings, particularly the casting that supports the table, and the quills are a sloppy fit on most of them. But they are just a drilling machine and most are light years better than a noisy Black & Decker hand drill clamped in a drill stand."

This is all true and whilst better than a drill stand it means they wont drill metal at 90 deg and the drill might wobble.

Check the spec if there is one and some will admit to being for woodworking (no doubt for the above reasons) and personally i think any at the same price are likely to be built the same.

You can get a proper drill for decent money if you ignore Fobco or Boxford and look for Elliot, Kerry or Qualters & Smith. I bought a Q&S 750 for £60 off the Bay. Same power as the Naerok but drills a hole much faster.

You can tell it's a better drill - you can't lift it without help ;O)