Member postings for Nick Hulme

We use Spray-Mount, most effective if applied to flies settled on a window, the old formula was better thoug and it had a nicer smell, Artwork Fixative works well enough to relegate them to Shanks' Pony rendering them easy targets for the flail of your choice.

CO2 has advantages for some applications, car bodywork and some steel fabrication included, a mix of CO2 and Argon can give reduced spatter and straight Argon is required for most exotic materials, although other gasses are used.
Ideally you should refer to BOC, ESAB and other online guides to the right gasses for a given application.

Or try it in the only part it's ever going to be screwed into?
Sometimes the simple solution is the solution

Ketan,
There is one of those in the Teng Tools 12 piece needle file set.

Cut knurling works on all grades of brass

Just use a combination of threaded rod, tube and a nut to support the front edge of the table on your drill, it'll cost you under a tenner and will be more rigid than most things you might buy.

I found all my parting woes were down to my tool alignment, speeds, feeds and lube (or lack thereof).
​All the parting tools I bought in the hope of finding "The Right One" now work perfectly well, including one like the item in the OP, which sits in a home made holder with massive overhang and stick-out, mounted in a QCTP holder on an RDG pattern Dickson QCTP on the standard Myford 7 top slide.

After replacing the lid my father always inverted the tin briefly, never had issues with drying out.

if you knock the shaft off some potentiometers they will show their guts

it won't affect the use of an external pot.

Sadly the market is driven by cheap buyers who expect "Summat for Nowt" so the dealers cater for it.

It is entirely the fault of the majority of buyers buying cheaply irrespective of quality, if no-one bought cheap rubbish there'd be no market for it.

Don't forget Acetal

It's an Engineering plastic.

My local Lidl had 3v Lithium cell powered digital calipers this week, same model I've been using without issues or Lithium cell replacement, some for 2 years and others for 4 years.

Few lathes face flat, if they did fitting parts together would be a pig.

Is that M18 Coarse, Standard or Fine Pitch?

A simple solution for driving a stepper with Enable/Disable, Forward/Reverse and 3 speed ranges is an MKS OSC V1.0 board, stepper driver, PSU and stepper motor.

Unless the head lifts as the Y traverses this will make

NO DIFFERENCE AT ALL!

:D

This looks exactly like the one I have on my Super 7 -

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-Digital-LED-Tachometer-RPM-Speed-Meter-Hall-Proximity-Switch-Sensor-NPN/282729320173?hash=item41d3fb0eed:g:cTcAAOSwc2FaOwob

- Nick

Not necessary.

You MUST have the system installed and commissioned by an expensive, qualified Electrical Engineer and only he should mess with it in the event of a problem.

Suggesting anything else on a forum invites those who "interpret" what they read through the filter of their world view and invites disaster and death.

I just thought I'd throw that in before someone who's eaten an industrial H&S manual pitches up

More than 90% of what's listed above is covered if you can be bothered to read the manufacturer's Installation, Commissioning and Quick Start Guide manuals for your choice of inverter, including troubleshooting.
If you choose an inverter for which such documentation is not available all the basics still apply, read the manuals for some of the well manufactured, adequately documented inverters you didn't buy - ABB, Siemens, Mitsubishi, Jaguar etc. just ignore model specific info like actual connector location and labelling (get that from your manual) and parameters and their settings (get them from your manual too)

Still small enough that the motor will limit what the lathe can do.