Member postings for Nick Wheeler

That's extremely limiting.

A full set of ER collets isn't expensive and means you can use any tool that is within your system's range. Not having to swap to the drill chuck every time you need to drill a couple of holes would justify the extra cost as an example.

It makes buying ER collet blocks an even more sensible purchase too.

I always buy the set when there is one, as experience has shown I will always need the 'you'll never use that size' at odd times and it's really frustrating and time-wasting to have only half the tool.

If cost was an issue, then I would happily forego some of the other must haves, as I have some and have never used them; my 123 blocks and machinists jacks just take up room in the toolbox.

That.

When we did the nose wheel modification on a Cessna Caravan, £20 on a new bottle of the specified Loctite was a trivial part of a £5000 job on a £1.5 million aeroplane. It also meant the paper trail was correct.

When I made an fitted a new headstock bolt for this clapper

fitted to a 250kg bell, the gudgeon pin and bolt got a smear of the generic £3/bottle medium-strength stuff that I've had for years.

Why would the external panels only be welded to each other, and not the internal structure that you can't see?

These sets are available all over the place: LINK for well under £30

Why would this method need space between the bearings? The expanding mandrel grips the inner race of the first bearing. It would work well with the spacer and threaded bar mentioned in other posts, which given the lack of support on the housing is probably a better idea.

I hadn't read your first post properly to realise they're in a blind hole, so would use the same technique on the lower bearing.

If the housing is aluminium, then I'd set up the puller and give the housing a lick of heat to make the job go better.

I've never had any luck extracting bearings with the grease method which just seems to make a mess.

Expanding mandrel(a rawlbolt) and slide hammer for the first; hammer and drift for the second.

Or you could buy a bearing puller that works the same way.

The free subscription to Fusion now has a limit of 10 editable files at any time.

If you reach the limit of 10, then you have to make at least one of them read only to edit an earlier one. Do this from the data panel

This is mildly annoying, but is only really going to cause problems if you insist on having each component as a separate file.

Standing in front of a machine cranking handles to scrape material off a block isn't fun. It's work. Tedious and time consuming work.

Brushing the removed material away from the part and removing it from the machine so it can be put to the purpose it was made for is the fun bit.

Spending time in the workshop isn't my hobby. I do it because the real hobbies require making/modifying/fabricating stuff.

I'd like to reduce the amount of time I spend doing this, and the best way would be to buy a Bridgeport sized mill. But I don't have enough space for the benchtop machines, so automating my X2 mill to do the boring work while I do something else is sensible. That something else could be assembling parts, designing the next ones, or making a coffee and learning the leads of Cambridge Minor.

Edited By Nicholas Wheeler 1 on 01/04/2021 10:38:04

You could do that quickly with a coarse file.

Yes, I found that, but ringing practice took precedence over posting here

Dermashield

one small application will last for several hours, so even the small aerosol will last for ages.

I agree, which is why my vice clamps fit into the holes in the vice pin holes, and clamps directly to the table.

What would they have done instead?

As an American, at least you shoot the little buggers.

Another thing to consider is that running abrasive grinding points along lengths of 1mm thick steel is going to wear grooves in them very quickly.

It cuts, drills and files well.

Cutting up RSJs just to keep the steel is daft. It's much more likely to be of use in long lengths.

If you frequently use all your drill's capacity, you'll find the mill a bit small

None taken

my point was that even pedal bike brake discs knock the pads back. If the bloody things haven't seized - they're really fussy.

As we're talking about Brembo calipers, and motorcycle ones at that, I'd be worried about the rest of the caliper's durability before a slightly modified rattle spring pin....

The heels on mine are about 2mm wide and 1 deep. I never considered they might mark the table and after about 16 years, they haven't.

I don't want studs and nuts for this sort of clamp as theyget in the way; mine use allen bolts in counterbores. It takes a few seconds to check their length the first time they're used, and shorten them if necessary

Where did I even imply that the springs retract the pistons? The small runout of the disc knocks the pads back. I've never seen a caliper that wouldn't function perfectly as a brake with the anti-rattle springs, of whatever design, removed. Some calipers don't have them.

My suggestion was to not taper the parts but reduce the ends, with a larger diameter in the centre for the spring, like this ---+---. The shoulder would be nowhere near the pads, unless the disc wore right through. I have seen that, also solid discs fitted instead of vented, and in both instances sticking pads would have been an improvement.....