Member postings for thaiguzzi

If you still decide to purchase one, good brand name ones are often available on ebay for less than £30; e.g. Starrett, M&W, Rabone etc.

Bill

After doing a search for some info on using morse taper collets instead of ER, 5c etc. nothing turned up.

when i bought my milling machine i was given a boxed collet chuck set as discount, Its an M3 chuck with M12 thread for the draw bar and has 8 collets in the set but no other collets available for the set to buy apart. I think the biggest collet is 14mm.

As I have a lathe as well as the mill I can use it there too using a M4-M3 reduction but I'm still limited to size of material I can use due to collet size.

Looking round for something a bit bigger like ER32 or ER40 i came across the direct morse taper collets that would greatly help with the limited hight available on a small benchtop mill.

Does anyone use them?, pros & cons? what is the largest collet size for Mt3? On ARC the biggest is 18mm is this the upper limit?

I'm debating weather or not to go for them over a Er32 or Er40 collet chuck set and maybe a bolt on chuck for my lathe, I think the er40 would give me a far greater material range but I lose a lot of hight. Thoughts appreciated. thanks

Derek

Nigel B.

I had forgotten about the Himalayan, bit of a disaster that one and a good example of an overweight motorcycle, I stand corrected.

I'm told there is a European company making big bore conversions for the twin (and Himalayan), RE are sure to know about. Still think 650 to 850 is a step to far.

The "problem" if it can be called that, with the early Hinckley Triumphs was that the engines were designed by guys whose experience was with car engines. They did not realise just how compact a motorcycle engine is and it showed. They soon realised and set about correcting along with the mechanical noise problem. The overbuilt reputation was probably nurtured to cover this up.

On the subject of weight saving and the new unitised RE Bullet engine. The RE stylists decided to take their styling Cues from an existing popular brand of motorcycle. In doing this the cylinder head gained some 1.5kg in weight just to make it look like they wanted. Other parts suffered the same. Attempts were made to dissuade them from doing this. Unsuccessfully as it turns out.

John

Apples and oranges, really? Just because the Re is a mid-range motorcycle of relatively modest performance doesn't mean its OK to ignore weight. The RE is over weight, not massively so, a bit like me really, could do with losing a bit! I really hope that RE refine the design, get a good few kilo's off it but leave the engines performance alone, that would be a nice motorcycle.

John

If Triumph can build a 675cc 100+bhp bike that meets all the regulatory requirements and has all the features motorcyclist demand in a modern motorcycle that weighs 33Kg ( 72lbs) less then the RE is somewhat overweight. KTM Duke similar spec to the Triumph also reinforces my point. Even an MT-09 Yamaha is lighter.

And the BMW's S1000 makes 4 time the power of the RE and is a few Kg lighter.

You may well think they are "revvy" engines, yes they are but thanks to electronics they also have good bottom and mid-range "grunt".

If the RE could shed 25 - 30Kg then it would be an excellent motorcycle.

If it wasn't for C-19 crisis one of the above would be in my garage now , had a test ride booked on a KTM the day after the lock down restrictions were imposed on us. Also considering a 1960's Norton, soon as we can travel I'm going to have a look.

John

I get 20,000 miles out of an X-ring chain and sprockets on my 105hp Honda VFR800. I'm pretty happy with that. And it almost never needs adjusting after bed-in.

The rubber belt drive on my Harley seems to last forever but only about 70 ponies going through that.

But RE could have put the primary chain on the left and the rear chain on the right so the more shapely engine cam timing cover was on the right in the conventional manner. Plenty of bikes do that including Harley Sportster from 1957 to present and the old 1942 WLA military Harley too.

Edited By Hopper on 13/04/2020 11:39:54

Motorycling - Easter 2020 style

Nice sunny Good Friday, so out with the bike !

Remove security & dust cover - move bike to drive.

Wash down to remove storage dust that the cover didn't totally keep off.

Chamy dry.

Apply AutoGlym Enhanced Gloss Protection to all painted sufaces - wait as instructed, then buff off.

Polish all chrome & polished alloy bits with Meguires NXT metal polish.

Clean all black plastic bits with AutoGlym Black Trim cleaner.

After 7 hours of hard cleaning & polishing, admire bike before returning to garage, replace security & dust cover.

Go back in to house & sulk !

Just wondering if anyone has knowledge of the Lucas advance retard units fitted to coil ignition motorcycles in the 60's?

My unit, on a 1064 AJS needs a lot of repair. I cannot see a replacement for the AJS but I see units advertised as for BSA/Triumph etc. I wonder if the unit was a generic Lucas unit fitted to many bikes or of they are all slightly different?. Photos do show unit similar to mine but no dimensions are given

thanks

Im looking into the Boxford box lathes, they maybe very efficient in what they do, which is of course the primary goal, but lack the charisma of a myford super 7 style lathe. Or Is it me just being a tart?

See *** Journeyman's Workshop *** for my views on choosing machinery!

John

You have that the wrong way around, Mg is lighter than Al.

John