Member postings for Neil Lickfold

Sometimes I put some bearing blue on the edge finder. You can see when it has a full contact just before it kicks off. My new one has a 10mm ceramic disc instead of the 6mm steel. The steel one is from like 1990 or so. Still works fine. I like the ceramic as it is anti magnetic. I found that if the part is slightly magnetic, or if the disc has got magnetised over the years, it reads incorrectly. So I run them over a demagnetiser periodically.

Neil

The real down side to electric cars is on cold climates and keeping warm. The batteries don't like the cold.

Neil

The Mazda car will have a fuel economy in the range of 3.3 l per 100 km. The hcci is a real game changer for F1 and will be for cars and motor bikes as well. The Mazda patents are under their Rotary engine technologies. It seems just when something else comes along the technology gets to it's peak. Hcci is not new, it was done with bikes in the 1930, but needed the cylinder heated before it could start as they had no spark plug at all. But now the control and sensors and chips are fast enough that the control can happen to make it a reality. F1 has progressed HCCI the most over the last 3 years and continues to do so. Just real neat to see the electric turbos powered with super capacitor stored power.

Neil

The new HCCI combustion will make the 2018 Mazda car 30% more fuel economical compared to the non HCCI engine model. At that, you will have to think if a hybrid will be viable. When they get the HCCI even better, how much more can they get out of the fuel. Apart from a more complete burn, it is ment to also have lower emissions as well.

Neil

I leave T nuts soft. I don't want them harder than the bed or slide they are being used on. If they wear over time, just replace or use helicoils to recover the threads. I make them fairly long to spread the load over the most area that is reasonably possible. Neil

At some point you have either damaged the spindle on the threads or the register diameter, or you have damaged the back plate some where. The damage will be very small, so look for a small ding or dent or some bruising on the back plate register face. Look very care fully, it will be there and just scrape that damaged area to make it fit again.

Neil

There are TNMG holders with a 12mm shank are available. TNMG16040? is a good choice as there are so many choices of inserts available, with the sharpest being around 0.1mm radius out to 1.2mm radius.

Neil

It is not easy to get a straight answer. What is the precision required, how many being made. Is material conservation important. After that you can figure it out. This part can be turned and parted off after all operations being completed including the drilled hole if a live tooling drill is added to the lathes cross slide. It will require left hand turning tools and a left hand trepan tool. The live spindle to spin a drill bit can be as simple as a Dremel hand piece held in the tool post and pitched out using a locked spindle.

Lots of ways to making parts these days on home machines if you think about the product as a whole and what can be achieved if you have some form of indexing on the lathes spindle. Having a spindle for milling is very handy for making model parts and when only a few are being made. Dremel is fairly low power so definitely has its limitations for materials you can drill and mill with. Unless you get or make another spindle for the milling on a lathe situation.

Neil

PS. Well done on the cad. Is it possible for you to email to me your fusion 360 drawing model please. I would like to learn how you drew it up and made the model.  I also use fusion 360 but am a very much beginner.

Thanks

Edited By Neil Lickfold on 01/07/2017 05:52:13

And I was thinking that you had replacement metal jaws 3d printed. That will be the next level in printing, being able to make special shaped jaws for lots of things, not just chucks.

Neil

If it were me, I would chose the Tos over the other 2. The vertex, if you get a good one, last quite well. If you get a bad one, you will regret it. The Prat chuck is only their standard stuff, and the last standard Prat they brought at work is just terrible compared to the 40 year old Prat chuck. The Tos chucks I have had dealings with were from about 20 years ago now, and is still in a very good condition and still quite accurate over the entire range.

As for spare parts, order them when you order the chuck. Waiting 10 years then to go and get a replacement set of jaws, most likely that model chuck and jaws won't be available. Then if they are like Prat, charge you a huge amount just for the jaws, that you may as well by another chuck, and put the jaw set on that are not normally used.

Neil

My Myord lathe 1 turn is 4mm on diameter, with each division being 0.05mm on diameter. Interestingly, the width of the marker and the width of the dial graduations, is such that on one side of the marker to the other makes for about 1/2 division, so is about 0.025mm on diameter.

The compound slide, 1 division is 0.05mm .

I made a 0.5mm pitch leadscrew and nut and then used the imperial 100 count dial. each division is 0.01mm on diameter. At times it is very useful as each division is equal to what is read on the micrometer.

The leadscrew is still 8tpi, and the hand wheel is rounded to 3.18mm per rev on the graduations even though it is actually 3.175mm /rev.

Neil

It looks to me ring 1 is correct and the second ring is upside down. Not sure on your'e exact engine, but a lot of older engines that were one piece barrels, used a ring design like that on the top ring. Most likely due to the limit of blind honing a cylinder back in the day. The gap at the back of the second ring is for residual pressure to push against the ring to make it seal. The ring gap will be in the 0.2 to 0.25mm range, 0.008 to 0.010 thou, with inch feeler gauges. They can still work even at a smaller gap of 0.006 inches , if teh ring gap is too small, it wears the top of the bore prematurely.

Neil

It depends on the chuck itself. Quite a few 300 mm 4jaws have 800 rpm stamped on them. But some steel bodied chucks have 2500 rpm stamped on them. Me, I would keep under 800 rpm anyway and only run as fast as the balance allows. Some stuff can only be run slow safely.

Neil

Here are a couple of links that you will find helpful,

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/machineguides/Mini-Lathe-Angular-Contact-Bearing-Change-Guide.pdf

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/7x-spindle-and-spindle-bearing-upgrade.32865/

Neil

Iain, you can rub it down with 320 to 400 wet dry paper to take the high spots off. It will not take that much to make it a little looser. With angular contact bearings , either the inner does the movement for taking up the clearance or the outer does. Normal is to have the outer contained and the inner is adjusted together.

Neil

I have one of those wood lathes. Mine has circlips on each side of the bearings and the tunnel is through bored. Using castor oil on the shaft and on the inner face of the bearing itself allows them to assemble easier. When measuring the shaft, it wants to be about 0.005mm smaller than the nominal bearing diameter and it will be a push slide fit. The extra 0.005mm in diameter makes it a press fit. If the housing is heated to about 50 to 60 C, it makes it significantly easier to assemble the bearings into it as well. Making spacers to take up the inner gap and effectively preload it makes a difference as well. With mine I had a wood dowel keeping everything aligned sort of. Mine did not have a key on the shaft for the pulley, but had 2 grub screws instead.

Neil

Bearings should always be pushed or pressed into place. Care should be taken that they are not hammered at all.

With a spindle, as it has a hole through it, threaded rod and various spacers and washers can be used to pull a bearing onto the shaft or into the housing.

Neil

You need finishing inserts as the cut depth for hobby lathes and total HP is not enough to properly run the standard turning inserts and no where near the required power for roughing inserts. In finishing inserts they have chip breaker designs that make very small cuts curl and chip. Most finishing inserts are maxed out at a 1mm depth of cut, some are less than that. My current favourite insert are these little beauties, from Kyocera, CCGT060202MP-CK PR1425 I have a turning tools holder and a couple of different sized boring bars. Don't be fooled by the small size of these inserts. I get the 0.2mm radius and does most things. These are capable of turning bearing steel to aluminium. I also have the TNMG16 inserts, these are TNGG160402R-S PR1125 and the TNGG160404R-S PR1125 These are the 0.2 and 0.4 mm nose radius. I only have these in Right hand as I do not have a boring bar holder for the TNMG inserts. These PR1125 coated inserts cut bearing steels just fine as well. I also have DCMT11T3 turning holders and use the H1 aluminium finishing inserts for all metals except on Bearing steels. Most of my turning is all done by hand feed, I seldom use power feed.

Neil

The best lever indicators are the ones with a very low N force stylis. The ones that require a higher force are not that good when it comes to long DTI stands etc. I have not had any luck with a Chinese lever type DTI but that was like over 20 years ago now. Anything can be made anywhere if the quality control is good enough. When things are made to a price point, that is when quality is sacrificed every time. I use lever DTI the most. I use plunger DTI's the least. I use the lever type as a comparator mainly and very rarely as an actual measure of distance or thickness.

The last thing you need is something that is not reliable and not repeatable. So much time is lost from non repeating instruments, or ones that are not reliable.

Neil

I sent you a private message on the forum here.

Just email to me [email protected] your drawings. Ill go through it, add any missing dimensions and tips on what fits are actually needed etc so that when you make it, it will run.

Neil