Member postings for Neil Lickfold

The leadshot inside the hammer does the dead blow part of it. It is the deadening material in most of the dead blow hammers. If you have an old copper rawhide and hide side has failed, drill most of it out, fill lead shot. Take the handle off and hold like it is a block. Very simple and very effective. I use lead shot inside hollow parts to deaden them when turning. Make plastic bungs or use expanding water plugs that can be removed to retain it.

Neil

There is a wire clip that stops the plunger coming out. You need to remove the wire clip, then it will come out the bottom. That is how our one is.

Can you post some pictures of your assembly please. I repaired one recently, and want to make sure it is the same model.

Neil

As long as the faces are always very clean, and you don't get accidental stuff between when plates or chucks are changed, it will stay the same. It is interesting to see how little pressure is required to move the outer edge of the face plate buy a few hundredths of a mm in or out. When we have very large objects on a face plate on a cylindrical grinder, we only stop it for the minimum time to measure only. Otherwise it keeps rotating slowly to prevent a distortion in the assembly. Heavy objects out from the face take very little to move or influence.

1st to check, is the cross slide actually square to the run of the lathe. Some are not and are not adjustable in any way to make them square. Which is why on some older machines, you need to set the compound to get a flat face.

What I like about front mounted chucks is that they can be easily adjusted for that particular sized part being held, apart from the ease of taking it from one platform to another. Years ago , I made a square adaptor plate for a 3 jaw chuck that located onto a modified face plate. It allowed a turned part to be transferred to the mill for its other operations when only making a few parts. They are still using it 10 years later.

Not on the home lathe, but many cnc lathes with live tooling cut internal threads with a thread profile wood ruf cutter.

The advantage is a very clean thread that is de burred and has the leading feather edge removed. It also allows for a timed start of the thread relative to other detail on the part.

Many who do woodwork also thread mill internal threads on the lathe with small cutters down to 5/16 threads.I am looking at making a set up for my Myford lathe, with a variable speed trim router to drive the cutter based on either 6mm or 1/4 inch collet, and getting some cutters made in Carbide from a company in Auckland.

One of the newer things these days is live tooling. So a router is used and is set up on the tool post with an adaptor and with a 55 deg, or 60 deg multi flute cutter. And away you go. For external threads is mounted in line with the work piece and a D bit will work with a 60 deg or 55 deg depending on the thread form of course. With multi point cutters, one idea being used is the cutter has 4 teeth, 2 at the full form and 2 at less than full form. The lesser form does a rough out while the full does the final finish . These work better than just all 4 as a full form.

Here is a link to Stefan Gotteswinter on youtube who shows some things with his set up..

https://youtu.be/6_1Nlf-X4bw

Neil

Seen as you are making it from silver steel, it needs to be annealed before the final shaping and hardening and grinding..

VHS video tape is good. About 0.02mm thickness. The long play tape is slightly thinner, but don't remember its thickness. EOC make 10um 0.01mm shim stock and 0.02mm shim stock as well. But is quite expensive per roll.

Making parts consistently to 10um is actually a tall order. Barrie is far from a beginner machinist and buying a machine and replicating what he has done is not an easy achievement. A Fanuc robodrill come to mind. **LINK** or the small Hass mills etc. But these are well over the hobby budget but are the lower end of dedicated mills. What you really want is a second hand DMG that is 10 years old or so. Is another option.

There are many others. Some of the machines I saw a few years ago were not capable of making parts to 0.01mm .

You will need to invest in good cutters and good holders. Currently the better ones are the holders that seat on the taper and the face of the spindle. The new series of hydraulic collets are actually out performing the shrink collet chucks.

Some holders come with different shims for different helix angle ranges for the thread being cut. Also there is a shim for left hand threads as well. Often companies will have in their catalog the helix angle range of that shim number for their holders. Well worth while to read about it.

The top collet looks to have some damage on the start of the thread near the key slot. The threads are not hard and can be easily cleaned up with a thread file or a small triangular file. Clean up the treads and try again. I have never seen a Hardinge collet not work correctly but have seen them with damaged threads before. Also check the thread condition of the draw bar as well.

What surprises me, is that new grinding wheels are sold, with no instructions about crack or ring testing the wheel. Broken wheels don't happen all that often, but only once is too much. Last year a friend went to start a cylindrical grinder. It had a newly mounted and dressed wheel the week before that was ring tested. It broke almost perfect in half with the two pieces flying out like a brake drum shoe set. The motor stalled and the fuse failed all before he hit the e stop button.

As an apprentice we were taught to stand to the side of the grinder when starting, and be on the side of the main power switch or wall outlet. Wait a few seconds, then use the grinder. Never stand directly in front on start up. All the wheel failures I have seen or heard about have occurred during or very shortly after it has got to full RPM on start up.

There may well have been a primer paint issue. See it from time to time with cars as well. We had an Alpa grinder that a paint issue. The paint came clean off the steel. It was stripped back to metal and re filled and primed then repainted. The repaint work like any good paint should have. The primer was called PA10 etch primer. May be a banned paint these days. It was a rust red colour primer. The finish paint was a 2 part paint, but not a car paint. It was sprayed on. I was told that the car paint was sensitive to the coolants etc and the machine paint stood up to the coolants better. For some reason I thought it was an epoxy paint, not a cyano paint like the cars use.

I once did a job where we used a strobe light to freeze the work piece so to speak so we could more easily see the detail being turned. It worked a treat. But had it only turned on for the duration of that part of the work piece. We latter did some fun things like looking at the way the swarf was coming off the boring bar etc and the strobe was adjusted to be able to see these sort of things. This was back in 1990.

Actually the incycle variation on a single cylinder 2 stroke engine is very real. Using light weight materials for the disc will be in your favour. The advantage of a driving taper over a shaft and keyway , is that you can make adjustments to the opening or the closing while maintaining the same total induction duration. A good way to make these is to make a set of gauges, male and female. These can be used to make the shaft the correct taper size and the other to make the hub the correct taper size. If at any other time you need another hub for a different plate, you can just swap them out and see the difference in performance and swap back without too much fuss. Taking your time and being careful there is no reason for you not to be able to achieve a 0.05mm linear position on any of the interchangeable parts you make.

Neil

Anything less than 8 deg per side is a locking taper, from 10 to 15 deg is a driving taper that is releasable. On a 10 deg per side taper, for every 0.02mm in diameter the shift is 0.11mm in height. For a 15 deg taper , every 0.02mm in diameter is a height shift of 0.075mm .

With care and gauges, on a 10deg taper, you can get the height to be about 0.02mm , depending on the diameter of the parts and the preload amount of course.

After you go past 20 deg per side, keeping the swash correct becomes more difficult along with the alignment of the two tapers. 15 deg per side is a good place to start as that is much easier to set the height offset compared to 10deg per side. 10 deg per side has a higher tendency to drive how ever, less likely to slip.

But nowadays there is a collar system that clamps onto a shaft and holds a pulley. They slide together and have a very strong transfer of drive or torque. This may be another option as well.

Neil

I like it.

I have made some tubes of differing lengths that fit above or in between the setting stop. So have some for the counterbore tools and for drilling etc

I like that you can Rotate it to fine adjust the height was well.

The important part is that the crank will sit a 12 o clock in line with the cylinder when vertical. As for the ratio that changes depending on the application and cylinder position. Some motor cross engines were balanced as low as 30 percent when the cylinder was pointing forward. This gave very little side ways or vertical vibration to the rider. F2C diesel team race engines are between 30 and 40% balance, as it makes for a lighter over all engine. It seems that the underbalanced engines are the ones with better range on the tank of fuel. The balance when from 30% to 60% aprox, when held in a very firm mount, will produce the same amount of total power on a test stand. But in a model however that number can vary hugely depending on how well supported the engine is held. In some situations it is preferable to have an engine that has more cylinder in line out of balance and less side ways induced forces.