Member postings for Martin King 2

Hi Lambton,

Thanks for that info.

I guess I can still use your method on the same backplate, just put the holes somewhere else!

Asi in my OP is the runout unacceptabl;e for a 70's ML7?

Are counterbores not any good then? Should the pilot detach?

Martin

Hi All.

Just had my first attempt at making a backplate for my ER25 collet chuck from Arc. Not exactly a trouble free experience!

First I checked the external spindle of my M7 and it showed about .02mm either side of 0 runout on my Mercer METRIC .01mm dial gauge.

Put the backplate on the spindle and tried to true up the outer rim. There must have been a really hard patch on it somewhere, screeching and chattering like mad, so changed the speed and took a heavier cut which finally got through it into somethng more docile but it did not like HSS at all so tried carbide which was better. Facing was no problem at all and slowly crept up on the correct size register to ;just fit' with a light tap or two.

Realising that I wanted to counterbore (another first!) I measured what I had available that would suit the M8 cap screws and then drilled backplate on the mill with 6.3mm to suit the c/bore pilot. This was not straight forward as the pilot somehow jammed into the hole and detached from the c/bore shaft and stalled the machine! Managed to drive it out and did the other two holes using the pliot to line up and then removing it for the drilling. Kind of OK but I could see the c/bore wandering a bit. Also tricky to line up the other holes as my vice is barely big enough to hold th plate securely so used tool clamps as backup. Finally driiled through 8.2mm clearance.

The whole operation felt 'untidy' which was not what I was hoping for trying out a new process.

Putting the chuck on the spindle and using a Verdict 0.0005" indicator in the taper of the collet chuck I get a variation of 4 units either side of 0 so I guess thats 2 thou either side? Does not sound great but not sure what it should be.

If this is unacceptable where do I go from here please?

Not a nice feeling trying hard to get it right and being disappointed with the outcome but I guess this is how I learn..

Regards

Martin

Jason, you say 'shoot poorly', are you talking about real bows, is that shoot arrows?

I am talking about a 'bow drill'.

Martin

Hi Jason,

Would be interested to see any pics of the ones you made.

The ones I have are antique and of tapered square section with blacksmithed curled ends an dhardwood turned handles.

I have several all missing this bit or that and need to get them back in shape, mostly new front ends and taper chucks. Bows have always been a problem but a friend rightly pointed out that the section of a fencing foil would be perfect.

Regards,

Martin

Hi All,

Just an off chance some one may be able to help me here!

I need at least one, preferably 3, old blades from fencing foil swords; don't need the handles just the tip back as far as possible but at least 650mm.

These are the perfect taper & section for me to remake into the missing bow parts of some bow drills that I have.

Sorry if this should be in the WANTED section but was not sure.

Regards,

Martin

Hi all,

Just wondering if there are any members close by me in darkest South Dorset?

Would perhaps be nice to meet up for a cuppa and chat.

Regards,

martin

Quote: Don't use this on pyrophoric material, but how many of us emachine magnesium or uranium?

Many years ago while working at Stone Manganese on my Uni sandwich course I saw a 1 ton pile of magnesium swarf in a steel catch bin take fire.

Fire brigade came and drank tea as it went ballistic saying there was nothing they could do! never seen anything like it and the mess from the oxide was unbelievable.

Martin

Clive, a 10:1 cutting ratio would make some producers very happy bunnies!

I worked on the 1st Harry Potter for 11 months and they shot 2.6 MILLION feet of 35mm stock!

1000 feet runs 11 mins at 24fps so that equates to 476 HOURS on screen!

Mind you it felt like that when I waited for my 2nd Unit credit to roll up at the cast & crew premiere!

We did a lot of the Quidditch game stuff and then it was very much cutting edge, the sequence runs about 6 mins or so and it took 129 of us 3 WEEKS to do the first few seconds while all the bugs were ironed out on the motion control rigs and the various post prod CGI guys all squabbled over formats etc. All very good for my overtime though. All done now but Happy Days!

The Beeb work to much tighter budgets and are known for being REALLY parsimonious to crew , extras etc, not to mention treating the 'talent'; like s***! I did the lots of the BBC 2 Idents and we ere treated very badly by production in many respects considering the long hours.

Sorry to go a bit off topic.

Martin

OK, just measured them properly on a good mitutoyo mic.

The parallel diameter is 0.9834" and tghe diameter across the treads od is 0.9033".

Thread form looks totally symetrical to my eye under a x10 lens. Thread is RH

Looks like Trevor is on the money!

Martin C: send me a PM with a sensible offer that you are happy with to include the 2 index blocks as they are no good without the collets.

Thanks to all for the help.

Martin

Versaboss,

More info:

There is a 4mm keyway; total length is approx 92.5mm;

external diameter of the threaded end is 23mm; 33.7mm maximum diameter at the bell end.

Martin

Looking forward to this one as I too am at the start of my 10V build, have done the box bed and the sole plate, but the standard seems to have been put off as I found the method a bit daunting! Will now persevere and get back to it!

Can understand doing the feet of it but getting it centred for boring on the faceplate with no real reference for clocking seems odd...

Martin

Thanks Jason,

checked the link but I guess they must be old stuff because the number and sizes do not show up.

martin

Hi all,

Just got back from a large tool auction and in the lots I purchased there is a full set of Imperial collets which I am going to dispose of on EBay.

Naturally I wish to describe these accurately but have never had any of this size and design.

I wonder if anyone can shed some light for me on the correct ID of these.

They all have the number 2804 on them with a logo that looks like the CC of Coco Chanel!

Imperial sizes from 1/32" up to 3/4"; the parallel shank diameter is 25mm and the external diameter of the threaded end is 23mm; 33mm maximum diameter at the bell end.

Any help most welcome.

Regards,

Martin

What is MEM please?

martin

Hi Garry , another request to please stay and continue with your excellent hread and postings, it is giving me the impetus to carry on with my first ever engine (V10) which I am struggling with but enjoying immensley.

I really like the way you document with pics etc and detail all the pitfalls along the way.

If you do move please publish where to.

Best regards,martin

Hi Guys,

that has jogged my memory, it is exactly that! Many thanks!

martin

Hi All,

Just got this in an auction lot of tools and canopt for the life of me remeber what it is for; I know that I have had one in the past but a long time ago!

Any thought splease? the blade is 75mm long and the brass cone 30mm max diameter.

Cheers,

Martin

Hi all,

The saga goes on!

turned off the heating, pressurised system to 2.4 bar and shut the feed and return valves to the heating loop.

Next morning pressure the same, so I guess there is no problem with the boiler.

Damned if I can find my insurance policy so company is sending me copies, have not said a word to them yet.

What does the team think is the best way to approach the insurance people in this situation?

If they get the thermal imaging people in to find the leak, dig up the bit of floor, fix leak and make good floor, I am left with the highly likely possibility that it will happen again somewhere else which is not really acceptable.

Will they stand for replacing all the ground floor pipe work in the concrete or will they want to run surface pipe work which is REALLY unsightly and not what we want?

My wife is adamant that nothing is going to happen before Xmas so will have to keep topping up each day, is there any danger/ problem in doing this?

Does anyone have any experience of the type of skirting that can conceal pipe work?

Questions, questions! Any help much appreciated, this is a nightmare!

Martin

Neil, Good point, hadn't thought of that!

Alan, someone else told me that the leak sealers are a No-no. The 2 valves that you mention, are they the ones at the front bottom?

I pressurise the boiler by using two valves linked from cold mains on the wall, so do I assume that the valves you mention are permanently open? Then just close them for the 24hr test?

What is the correct method of putting copper pipes into concrete please?

Martin

Hi All,

I should add that the first leak was not on the heating circuit but was the cold mains feed to the utility sink.

It occurs to me that this one will possibly be agravated by the expansion/contraction as the heating system cycles?

Martin