Member postings for John Baron

Hi Guys,

It won't be the first time that I have made a mandrel to remove bearings in blind bores. First most bearings that I've come across tend to have a slight chamfer on the edges. So I've turned suitable piece of rod to be a good fit in the bore, drilled down the centre and split the end with a hacksaw, then clamped the split in a vise and threaded it. Using a suitable bolt threaded into it the split is forced apart and will grip the bearing bore very securely. You can then use any convenient method to remove the bearing such as a hooked slide hammer.

Hi Michael, Guys,

While the information given in that link is OK, the website itself loads a bucket load of code into your browser ! Which actually does all the things that were are trying to prevent. It mainly uses "Java & Javascript" to basically hack the web browser. Something you definitely don't want on a Wins machine !

Hi Dr GMJN,

I agree with your comment about completely removing the rear TP when not needed. I don't remove mine, but then I have the extended cross slide.

However looking at your second picture and putting a rule across between the two tools, there is a definite height difference between them ! I assume that you are going to make a tool height setting gauge. If so you will be able to instantly see which is right.

While I think about it, the height given it the drawing that I posted needs to be adjusted to suit your centre height. I did mention how I did it on mine. I really don't understand why it should be so difficult to get and set the tool height.

I made and use the "Norman Patent" tool posts on both front and back of my cross slide ! No shims needed and always dead on height. Actually I think that making one is a very good turning and boring exercise.

Hi Guys,

The easy way to get your lathe centre height is to put a scriber in the chuck and use a piece of plate on the cross slide and scribe a line ! Measure it and record the figure. If you are not happy with any chuck run out when you do this, just rotate the chuck 90 degrees and scribe again. You will certainly be more accurate than doing it by eye and guessing.

Hi Dr GMJN, Guys,

Here is my lathe tool height gauge, made from bits of scrap !

And a drawing !

Its very handy. Just sit it on the cross slide and set the tool edge either under the cap or on the top at the side of the cap.

Hi Dr GmJn,

From looking at your pictures, you have made a very nice job of the repair on that tool post, I like the toe clamp. A good idea.

However I wouldn't tighten the clamp screws down so hard as to distort the new tool holder cap plate ! Another point is that the parting blade extends outside the cross slide, the ideal position is to have the blade above the slideway of the cross slide. This will reduce the cutting forces that want to tip the tool holder towards the tailstock, reducing stability. My last suggestion is that the tool cutting edge is several thou too high. That pip is far too thick just for the overhang to break it off like that, the ideal is that the blade should be dead on centre height.

JMTP.

Check and make sure that the machine/mill frame is truly earthed ! Any capacitive effect is likely due to any residual voltage on the machine frame.

FWITW, my mill didn't even have the earth wire connected to the machine in the control box ! The earth wire was just hung in mid air. Luckily it didn't touch anything that could have caused damage.

Hi Guys,

Having acquired a damaged 6X4 bandsaw and completely refurbished it for very little money, its a machine that with a little care and careful adjustment I wouldn't be without. So I wholeheartedly agree that they are machines that are worthy of attention. Though the pressed sheet metal frame ones are not worth wasting time on.

Machine Mart keep a full range of spares for them.

Almost forgot !  You can get an idea of blade tension by tapping the blade with a 8" screwdriver handle.  When its tight enough you can hear it twang.

Edited By John Baron on 03/04/2021 14:56:42

What ever makes you think that the UK, USA and other countries don't listen in ! We have GCHQ and have been spying on ourselves and others for years ! Mobile phones and computers just make it easier ! Why do you think that strong encryption is considered a weapon in the US and unlawful not to give up passwords here in the UK.

Hi Richard,

Could be Cycle thread, 5/32 CSI 30 tpi.

Hi Nick, Guys,

My mill has an MT3 spindle, so all I do to centre the RT is put a centre in the mill spindle and use the hole in the middle of the rotary table to locate the centre. Then clamp the table down. As far as centring the work I'll leave that to you.

Stuff it with Plasticine inside some cling film or a plastic bag ! Though it would be much easier to use a wood plug and a nut and washer through the middle.

This is how I did mine ! It is an old pulley from a washing machine. !

Hi Guys,

My smart TV tries to update itself at exactly 3 pm every morning, that is why is is not allowed to connect to the Internet. I've also got it blocked in the router, but it uses a couple of other IP's which are also blocked. Annoyingly it will connect to the neighbours wireless Internet if it can. I've also got that blocked as well !

It is not made any easier with all these Internet routers giving open access to other devices. This is the reason that people like BT, EE Virgin etc insist you leave your router switched on and insist on you using their router. Your are providing a national network for them at you cost.

Note that the ISP can access your router remotely and alter your settings unless you take steps to block them.

Hi Guys,

Just for the nay sayers, I can remove and replace my vise without all the hassle of setting it up square again ! Which of course also means that I can move the vise anywhere on the mill table and not have to get the gauges out to set it up square. These vises do not have any grooves or slots for alignment keys.

It also prevents the screw from digging into the table when the vise moving jaw isn't quite far enough back !

So thanks for your comments, this system works for me, and that is all that matters.

Hi Guys,

Isn't this what Google have done with "Android" ?

A platform designed to collect your data, phone numbers, location etc, whether you like it or not ! Yes there are warnings but if you decline them you can't run the application...

Hi Guys,

JMTPW: I have both a mill and two drills ! I must confess that I could not do without either. The 1/2" Fobco is indespensble and the 5 mm high speed drill gets less use, but it can handle jobs that the other machines can't, Like 1 mm or smaller in PCB's.

Hi Chris, Guys,

There are five pictures, I've put them in an album, so they don't get lost on my computer.

I've very recently spent some time fitting a DRO and doing some maintenance on the mill. The wooden way covers and the aluminium ones at the back are just a couple of new items.

The long hold down studs are M8 with 8 mm thick clamp plates. The other new item is the stop on the vise at the left. The one on the right is just a piece of 4 mm plate that I had kicking about.

These are just close up pictures of the clamps. You can see the 12 mm precision ground plate.

Hope these pictures help.

Best Regards:

BaronJ:

Hi Chris,

No my mill is a Chinese copy of the Optimum, similar to the WM16 and others.

I used a shallow slot milled across the bottom of the plate and a length of bar screwed in, it is milled to be just wide enough to drop into the table slots anywhere I choose. The base thickness was simply because I had a piece of precision ground plate of suitable size, and it is a lot harder to distort than thinner plate. It also has the advantage that I can slide the vise to one side and place the rotary table on the mill as well, so I have use of both if I need to.

The vise hold downs are machined from square bar and use M6 cap screws in counterbores to secure them. The plate is held down in the usual way with "T" nuts, studs and plates, the plates supported on alloy pillars sitting in the table slots.

I can take a picture if you want !

Edited By John Baron on 24/03/2021 13:47:25

Hi Guys,

I also bought one of the type ll vises as sold by ARC. These have slots along the length of the vise and can accommodate more clamps if felt necessary.

I mounted mine on a ground flat 12 mm thick plate with four hold downs for the vise and four "T" nuts and studs to hold the plate. I put a register on the bottom so that the vise can be removed and put back in the mill table knowing that it will be dead square.

My only criticism of the vise is that I've discovered that the rear jaw is not true vertically. I've only found out recently. The top and front edge is OK as is the slides, however one side is a few thou smaller than the top on one side. I initially I thought that this was a vertical tram error but checking with a square it seems not to be.

Hi Guys,

This how I get around run out issues with my three jaw chuck. Note, you still have to put something in the jaws to tension them.

I made three alloy pieces, and drilled and threaded the jaws M6. As you can see from the pictures I use CSK screws to secure them. I made several jaws so that I can simply replace them as needed.