Member postings for ian cable

god this is good to watch {don't mean to blasphem gents} the other thread on stainless is the same issue yes, there are loads of different inserts but how many model engineers know the different types of metal to be able to buy the correct tip or tips so its lucks chance.I am certainly not knocking those that purchase inserts im all for them ,but I think for a novice with usually smaller capacity machines they need an easier and cheaper start ,so what can be easier than learning to grind a decent tool with hss and gain an enormous amount of expierience towards making their machine cut in the correct way .theres no quick way to learn a skill ian c

I think a seriouse point has been made the word experience, we also have our own preferences from them as to how we tackle a job so somewhere along the line dave and others with less experience will hope fully get the right answeres lets hope we don't get to technical and confuse them ian c

inserts were initially made for nc and cnc tooling, they were manufactured for high speed work on different materials that's why there are different grades of inserts .secondly they are power flooded with special coolants that cost the earth some £750 + per 50 gallons and more . For our purpose hss is more than sufficient if, like nobby said you keep it honed ,and keep the speed down ,even on none free machining stainless. you wont have any problems providing you stick to the rules of the materials your machining and you decrease the cuts as you near the end size or diameter, finishing cuts should be no more than a couple of thou. This applies to milling as well ,if your machine does not come down to a slow enough speed just take finer cuts the same with drilling ease of the pressure and slow down if you have no coolant facilities use a washing up squeasy bottle. ian c

while we are at it lets not forget miss Shilling, the lady that invented a one way valve in the carbareta on the early rolls merlin engines, it became known as miss shillings orifice ian c

hi the second picture ,red wheels and blue and red banjo's look very much like 5" vicroy lathe bits ian c

Tom D Walshaw aka tubal cane model engineer of the highest order 1912 to 1998

ha ha I new what nod was,just never heard of tramming (,so ive learned) the reason I said try milling the slot was that under the force of the cutter It will push the table out of square (definite movement).

all you need to do to check x to y angle is clamp a piece of plate to your table,just clock the rear edge, anything will do providing its relitivly flat .Plung in a sharp cutter about 3mm deep, machine slot from front to back then either left or right ,take the plate of the machine, hold the back edge that's been clocked against a verticle square (angle plate),then run the finger of your dti along the front to back slot that way you get an accurate machined angle then use your zeus book to find 1 the angle 2 the run out .never heard of tramming

hi Nobby , I once had a similar problem all I did was ,clean the collar with a bit of wet and dry then turn up a press fit 1/4 thick steel collar to go over top and drill a new grub screw hole opposite the old one

mmm definite problem there then ian c

rods correct im wrong not passivate I ment anodise sorry to miss inform you ian

hi, you don't state the colour you intend to use .Normaley aluminium is done by colour passivate, a local plating company will probably fill your requirement.If its to be handled a lot allochrome plating is harder and will last longer , hope this pus you in the right direction.

hi try Meadows and Passmore Ltd in Brighton put the name in and there site will come up usual disclaimer just a happy customer

should have gone to transwave £450 to run 2 machines £150 for electrician and they run at virtualy full power

if its a through hole get short punch or silver steel just a couple of thou under the core diameter and give it a reasonable clout being a very small tap it will crumble, other wise take Jason B advice or find someone with a spark eroder

hi my comment was ment as a last resort I had assumed you had done all the checks on threads ect lovely little lathe and well worth the time to get it right good luck

hi becky, there is always another way thread a lump of steel same as the mandrel nose or get someone to help you do this, then locktight it on to the mandrel.then turn up a new nose to suit say ml7 ml10 chucks plates ect

fun all round then including attepted suicide ha ha ha good way to pass sundays.

hi basically you get what you pay for, i think most model engineers would be hard pushed to ware out any lathe be it far east ,European or british .I think its like a coat , something of a personel choice its what takes your fancy in a hobby not a nessisity like in industry,i have owned both ,my personel preference is a 40 year old chipmaster because its so solid and repetedly accurate but one mans meat is another mans poison so, best advice is go a see as many as you can before you buy

hi rik when I was an apprentice we used to get big brass nuts, silver solder pennys to the thread recess each side, put a 1/4 inch thread in the bottom make a nice fitting plug. drill 2 holes in the top, 1 to take a lighter wick the other for a flint wheel, stuff the hollow centre with cotton wool and you've got a nice table lighter. ian c