Member postings for Redsetter

There were two different models of outside cylinder 0-4-0 tank engine, plus a smaller one with a single geared inside cylinder, also a 4-4-0 tender engine which is the best known. Plenty still around, as they were solidly made and great fun! If you google Bowman Steam Models or similar, plenty of information and photos on the web.

If the spring isn't providing enough friction, how about resetting or replacing the spring instead of trying to bodge it?

Both obsolete, rare, and difficult to get parts for, and if they don't come with a complete set of chucks and tooling, or need rectification work, that will be a problem, and any major repairs will need another lathe to do them on, plus the skills...

The York looks reasonable value assuming it is not worn out - impossible to tell just from pictures - but it is a very small lathe so may not suit your requirements. It only appears to have one chuck, and I would guess that it has a direct drive from a motor behind the back board and no countershaft, so it will run rather too fast for some model engineering jobs. Not too difficult to put that right, and chucks and so on can be found, but it will be a steep learning curve and may get expensive for a very basic lathe. It depends what sort of work you want to do.

If you are a beginner it is difficult to assess a used machine. I think it would be preferable to spend a bit more money and start with a new mini lathe from, for example, Arc, Chester or Warco - perhaps not perfect machines but good value, not worn out before you start, and they have a good knowledge base, and readily available spares and accessories. Also, try and find someone who can show you some basic techniques, and how to use it safely.

I'm going to leave it there, as others will no doubt like to comment.

Both interesting antique machines, but in my opinion not really suitable for a beginner.

If it is a BT line and it is outside your property it is their responsibility to maintain and repair it. Clearly it failed through old age, not because of anything you did. They will not charge you. Just box it up, tell them its not working, and don't tell them you broke it.

You always end up with shims under the tools because the working height of the tool depends on how it is ground.    You'll just have to get used to it.

Edited By Redsetter on 30/10/2020 16:07:45

Edited By Redsetter on 30/10/2020 16:09:22

If it's a proper stork's leg it is probably not British made, and Brevete in the thread title suggests it is French - so probably not BA threads although they may be close enough.

Worth searching on this forum as this has been discussed. Not all these lathes are exactly the same, and IIRC there were two different length belts depending on type of motor fitted. The Chester 920 which I had used a 5m710, but this was very tight on some speeds. A slightly longer one would have allowed the tensioner to work properly in all positions.

In the real world, if the seller is dishonest he will carry on being dishonest, even if the matter gets to court.

If there are no witnesses or records of what took place, it is not worth pursuing.

The repair needs a bit of skill and ingenuity, but it is not so difficult and need not be expensive. Best to get on with it.

The easiest way to make the crankshaft is from individual parts, brazed or Loctited together, unless you particularly want the challenge of machining it from solid.

I will probably get shouted down, but having built several Stuart 10s and an S50, I think they are awful things to inflict on a beginner- he certainly won't be a beginner by the time he finishes! Something a bit larger makes a lot more sense. As you say it is more forgiving and doesn't need such close tolerances. If you have the 5a castings already, and it is what you want to build, just go for it.

WD40 is just a mixture of white spirit and light oil. It says so on the tin. Easy to make your own.

Brass or bronze for the piston - I doubt if the steel one is original. Brass is OK for a little engine.

Make the piston first - turn slightly oversize, face, drill and tap from the tailstock, put the groove in, then part off. Then if necessary, reverse in chuck and face other end.

Now chuck the piston rod and set it to run true - this is important. Thread using a tailstock die holder. Without removing the rod from the chuck, screw the piston on with a drop of Loctite, and it should be running true. Now taking light cuts with a very sharp tool, turn the piston down to be a tight sliding fit in the cylinder.

It is of course advisable to check that the cylinder bore is circular and parallel before starting!

Hope that helps.

Edited By Redsetter on 13/06/2020 17:16:06

If the rod was riveted into the piston, how did you get it out? Just curious!

Usually on a small engine like that the piston is screwed onto the rod, or possibly pressed on. I doubt if it would originally have been riveted. and if it was the hole in the piston would not need to be stepped like that, as riveting would produce a very small expansion even if you could do it safely.

I would thread the piston rod, make a new piston to suit, and finish turn it in place on the rod, to fit the cylinder.

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From the photos it looks as if the regulator is working. Why the overwhelming urge to take everything to pieces?

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

On Lathes UK, "Small Unknown British Lathe no 99" is very similar, though the bed is different.

It looks a nice old machine, but don't expect too much from it. It will be difficult and probably uneconomic to restore fully. As your first lathe, if it is not too badly worn, it is worth setting it up with a motor and a countershaft, and you will learn a lot.

You don't need an auto feed to start with, but you will need a chuck, or chucks, so the first thing is to find out what thread is used on the mandrel nose and try and source a suitable backplate.

Just buy LBSC'S book on Maisie. Plenty of secondhand copies around, and I think it has been reprinted by TEE.

Assuming the contact faces are reasonably flat, the seal will gradually improve as the engine is run in. A fine matt finish is preferable to a highly polished one. I usually finish the valve and port face by rubbing on fine wet and dry paper laid on a flat surface. Do not run it without oil.

It's a kit-built "Unit Steam Engine" hence logo. Originated in the 1970s? and still available, I think. Google it.