Member postings for stan pearson 1

Hi John

I don't know about the loco you are building but as a general rule the centre line of the cylinder should meet the centre of the driving axle, the one that the connecting rod goes to.

Regards

Stan

Hi Jamie

Yes Neil is correct you should always feed into the cutter never with it, your lucky it hasn't dug in and broke the end mill.

Regards

Stan

Hi Brian

Went into my workshop tonight and threaded a piece of 3/16 OD copper tube. The die is also from Tracy Tools and the pipe held in a 4" Record vice no problem. I think ether the pipe OD is not 3/16 or the die is not the correct size or you are not opening it out far enough with the centre screw.

Regards

Stan

Hi Brian

If you have turned the die round so the centre screw is in the slot ( it should be tapered ) and screwed in to open up the die and the pipe is the right od you shouldn't have a problem, once you have thread on the pipe screw the centre one out 1/4 of a turn and run the other 2 screws up and keep doing till its the right size,

Hope this helps

Stan

Hi Glen

I bought a new motor for my super 7 from Myford and it was a Brook Crompton when I had trouble with the wiring and rang them they were most helpful and talked me through it as I did it, things must have changed big stile since then,

Regards

Stan

Paul

Dig out the base put in 4" of hard core then 2" of sand then put a layer of Kingspan or similar 2" of concrete just before its goes off mix up some cement and skim the surface called blinding, when completely dry paint over with a Latex wash. No damp from under floor insulation will keep your feet warm and Latex will seal the concrete and oil will wipe off.

Regards

Stan

Hi Derek

Yes the best thing to use is silicon sealer what is used for sealing windows it has to be heat resistant and fire proof to comply with building regs

Regards

Stan

Hi Brian

I have been building steam locos for 40 odd years and have had no problem with EP80 gear oil, if your engine has rings on the pistons then oil them and the bore when fitting, if graphite yarn then soak it well in oil and hot water first and oil bore. If your engine has piston valves then you need a good supply of oil or it will seize up.

Hope this helps as I have never built a stationary engine.

Regards

Stan

I don't often agree with Julian but on all my locos using Diane Carney plates I have used 12BA bolts as recommended by her, they cost too much to rely on Blue Tack but I have seen them put on with araldite and others. I would seal the ones in the tank with Loctite, the ones on my 5" locos are soldered over inside using soft solder paint.

Best of luck

Stan

Hi Ron

I think you are going round in circles ! you will have to start at the begging undo the feed pipes to the cylinders and fit blanking plugs, remove one of the safety valves and fit an air line be careful and pressurise the boiler and see if the gauge goes up, if it does lower air pressure and remove one of the plugs re pressurise and see if air leaks out with regulator shut.

Regards

Stan

Hi Ron

I don't think your problem is down to the regulator leaking, if your boiler cant cope with a small weep how will it cope when running fast at fully open?, have you checked for air leaks from the door and pipes in the smoke box, if no leaks and blower on even with regulator full open I would expect it to raise steam.

Regards

Stan

Hi Matt

I have always used self etch left for 48hrs and sprayed with cellulose top coat on all my model loco`s, I think you didn`t leave the etch long enough to dry and the activator has reacted with the enamel or the etch coat was too thick it should be one thin coat mixed 50-50 with the activator, and spray a thin top coat first and when the hairs on the back of your hand stick to it put on a second wet coat.

Regards

Stan

Julian

As I said I would only use silver solder flux on non important jobs certainly not a boiler you can use any flux ! many years ago when I did my City & Guilds we were taught to solder and told most important to clean and de-grease later I worked at a Haulage firm and had to repair a leaking Diesel tank, we had no soldering fluid my boss said use grease after an argument he did the job with Lithium grease and when I left 6yrs later it was still dry.

Regards

Stan

Hi Nick

I have only done small not important soldering with Comsol and use the same flux as Silver Solder with no problem.

Regards

Stan

Hi Mark

Don't use DIY self etch go to your local car paint supplier and buy Bodyline mix 50/50 with acid activator and spray on a thin coat, leave for 2 or 3 days for it to work.

Regards

Stan

Hi Mark

If the boiler has a cleading in brass I have always used a thin coat of self etch and a high build primer then wet flat and spray with cellulose never had any problems, the only boilers not with cleading is those designed by LBSC and I have had no experience with them.

Regards

Stan

Hi All

Is any body building the 5" 9F to Les Warnett`s drawings, and have tried to fit Doug Hewson`s cab kit to it please.

Regards

Stan

Hi All

Is anybody building a 5" Les Warnett 9F and fitted a Doug Hewson cab kit to it.

Regards

Stan

Hi David

Have a look at www.modelengineerslaser.co.uk and talk to Malcom he does all the parts for g1 Evening Star i am building the 5" gauge and have bought a lot of parts from him.

Regards

Stan

Hi Julian

Brazing brass to steel without a filler rod was comon when i served my time in the 1950 it was even done by blacksmiths in the forge its the same principal as gas welding by melting the two pieces of steel to form the joint also comon practice.

Regards

Stan