Member postings for stan pearson 1

Chris

The only things to look out for are

Speed rating on wheel is same or lower then grinder, this is more a problem with larger diameter.

Make sure you put paper packing's ether side of washers don't over tighten and make sure of a full nut.

Make sure the rest is no more than 1/16" from stone.

You might have to trim the new stone as to balance them.

Stan

Brian

Have a word with Martin at Emkaysupplies.co.uk he will help you if he can.

Stan

Hi All

When I bought all my castings from Norman Spink I found half of them had hard spots, he said just grind it off but I pointed out that if I did and then broke a tap in it he would not change them. I took mine back and he changed them after moaning ! the only thing about heating cast iron is as it cools it can crack badly with stress. My advice would be to change them.

Regards

Stan

I don't know why you don't just file the face and bang a adjustable reamer through.

Stan

Pete

Ian is correct if it was mine I would try to find out if the boiler is made out of copper or brass and whether it is soft or hard soldered, I would then try to run it on low pressure compressed air. Then if it runs ok I would then seek help from you local Model Engineers Club, it might cause injury if not made properly. If things don't follow certain guide lines it might be well and less expensive to keep on show.

Stan

When I served my time in the late 50s it was ether Electric arc or gas, I was shown a useful trick when welding pure Ally light a candle run the Ally over the flame when you heat with welding torch the black soot goes light grey stick your rod in and weld.

Stan

Dave

I have used both and there is a difference, Mig is like Arc welding but with a continues wire instead of rods if you use this on steel you will need ARGON SHIELD if on Aluminium you will need pure Argon Tig is like gas welding but with electric arc and you use a rod as in gas welding, both are good at what they do. If you welding Aluminium and Stainless Tig is the best its not so good on mild steel.

Hope this helps

Stan

Andrew

Just been reading the article on EN8 finish it appears I am not on my own using HSS to get a good finish

Stan

Hi Rebekah

John is correct buy the ones from Myford they are cheaper and fit no problems, I have just fitted 2 new ones to my Super7,

Regards

Stan

Hi Andrew

I have never used EN1A so I don't know, but most of the mild steel I get is EN8 or I do use some stainless for small bolts and studs. The main problem I have is they chip easily, I can get a good finish with a sharp HSS tool with the cutting edge rubbed off with an oil stone. When I spoke to a turner he told me they are ok on big lathes taking cuts of 1/4" or more and running red hot, they don't suit the small 31/2" lathe taking fine cuts.

Regards

Stan

I know I am going off the question but I don't know why model engineers rave about indexable tools when you get a far better finish with a properly ground HSS tool. When you say you shouldn't chip them I do and they are at the proper height and not run into stationary objects .

Stan

Served my time starting in 1958 most important parts were split pined then we went onto Nylock nuts and Bedford went one further in the mid 1960 when they used Loctite even on big end bolts and differential parts, the big end bolts were covered in Loctite and stretched to a given length when removed you had to fit new ones.

Stan

That's spot on Bob I used Loctite to secure the wheels of my Black 5 tender and put one of the axle boxes on wrong way round, a call to Loctite problem solved just warm up in oven to 200c and the wheel pulled off with no damage done. I wouldn't rivet over small studs we have moved on since those days, even split pins are nearly a thing of the past

Stan

Hi Graham

Yes your right it was antibloom thinners I bought as I spray all my locos in celli.

Stan

Hi Gary

Go to your car paint supplier and buy 5lts of gun wash its like celli thinners and will cost about £10 that will wash it off without marking it and if you can afford it buy some self etching primer spray a thin coat and leave for 24hrs to etch. Don't mess with red oxide.

Regards

stan

When I served my time as a vehicle fitter in the late 50 early 60 we only used it to spray on plug leads, coils and distributer caps inside and out when damp, to free off and clean rust we used Plus-Gas. I think people are using it for something it was not intended for.

Stan

I do exactly that Alan, I only quarter the main pair of driving wheels, all engines have a Master rod which is solid and has two crank pin bushes in it, this rod can be made on a simple jig then use the jig to drill the vertical joints to exact axle centres then assemble the rods Loctite the wheels and use the rods to quarter them, had no problems with any of my 8 loco`s.

Regards

Stan

ATF and Hydraulic 32 are both none frothing oils, I have now retired but worked for 20yrs on mobile hydraulic cranes most used clear hydraulic oil but Liebherr used red ATF or Dextron R.

Stan

Hi Nick

Myford recommend Nuto H32 which is the same as Hydraulic oil 32, automatic transmission oil is the same but usually red and is also used in power steering.

Regards

Stan

Hi Clive

if you want to build it just for fun and keep the cost down then go for the 3,5" but if you want a good working model then 5" there are more scale parts for the 5" but the cost is higher.

Regards

Stan