Member postings for Oompa Lumpa

Make no mistake, my workshop is pristine, some of the things I work on are frighteningly expensive, and not mine. When I put stuff away they get wiped down and oiled, and depending what they are depends the actual type of oil. But stains on beds and ways are just temporary and they will change over time.

The only way to get rid of stains (generally) is to abrade them away. I just wouldn't.

graham.

Well, mine reminds me I have left the power on. Other than that........

Nope, can't think of anything else.

graham.

Just use it. The marks will come off over time, you might even put some of your own on it.

graham

Do you have anything other than that piece of plate and that cutter?

If so, try milling the "other" bit of material with a different size cutter because what you have here is just so wrong for a first attempt. I think Jason might be onto something with the Imperial sizes.

Where are you in the country? If you are anywhere near me I will nip round.

graham.

I would like to do that, I have that style of jaws on my Teig, however those jaws are induction hardened all the way through and were cut with a Wire cut EDM. I can't cut threads with the machine otherwise I would have.

Good suggestion about going up a bit on the jaw size John, I will do that, it means I get more gripping area.

And just to continue with the "what I did" theme. Today I learned that maybe a CNC Mill would be a good idea. Watch this space!

graham

Decided to make a set of soft Jaws for one of my chucks. As I had a spare, spare set it was simple.

First off, cut the jaws in half:

Lovely fit, next up, cut a bit of the bar up shown in the pic above and weld it to the jaws, all done. Much faster, cheaper and simpler than actually buying a set, you get the idea from this pic. (Sacrificial soft jaw material not yet actually welded to the Jaws - for the pedants).

How about the power upply from an old computer? At least regulated and smoothed.

graham.

The likelihood is that it is a proprietory mix of Potassium Nitrate, Potassium Nitrite and Caustic Soda - all highly corrosive and all highly volatile. Before you start messing about with it find out for certain what the contents are. For blueing small parts I use a small stove and pure Potassium Nitrate but I am extremely careful not to introduce so much as a drop of water into the (boiling) mix as the results are spectacular - and unwanted. It is not something you want to be messing about with unless you have an actual use for.

graham.

Take the setup apart;

1) Get the plate bolted down to the table as Jason suggests, flat and secure but packed up off the table with parallels or something solid at least.

2) get the head setup vertically.

3) set the collet fully into the collet nut and then put the cutter in.

4) don't climb mill until you have some more experience.

Your setup as illustrated is just so wrong I don't know where to begin but as everyone has said, there is room for error in every direction. Just with reference to your assumption that your setup "would press against the base of the vice" actually, you are "pressing" against fresh air, the cutter's action is edge to edge, not up and down.

I would suggest you get a bit of practice in with more forgiving materials before you take on something as challenging as this and this will give you a bit more experience of workholding.

graham.

Edited By Oompa Lumpa on 25/05/2014 08:32:46

This Article confirms that (as I recall) Single Cut Mill Files are the best for use on the lathe. I think the Pferd file you linked to might be just that type, the main difference i believe are the number of safe edges. That and the fact that you keep on pointing out all of these really nice tools that are readily available to you - if you live in the US 

graham.

Edited By Oompa Lumpa on 25/05/2014 08:15:18

I have assembled most of the bits to create a DRO setup based on Yuri's Android DRO, but the bits are all in one of my "future project" boxes.

First I am going to build an X axis variable speed drive for the Mill. But I have seen some rather trick full speed return circuits for this which enable the table to quickly return after cutting ready to advance for the next cut. I am still agonising over this as it introduces yet more things to go wrong.

But it would be nice though.

graham.

Looking at the finished tip ("finished" being loosely applied here) I see the striations from the grinder go mostly in the up/down orientation.

Wouldn't it be better if they went from left to right, or vice versa?

graham.

Bit naughty of you Bill, spending your day hacking ebay!

Tut Tut!

graham.

Springmasters are good but as Tim says, Belleville washers would be ideal in this application. I use them to regulate very high pressure gas.

graham.

Given the medical connotations I suggest a few politicians skulls. This would serve two purposes, you could get lots of practice without actually damaging anything valuable and while you were at it you could take a look see to just double check there is nothing actually in there.

graham.

This:

"Good scrap yards are very hard to find, but once you do find one, make friends with the chaps that work there, and if they do a bit of gas cutting or guillotine work for you, don't just walk away, at least give them enough for a pint or two, and when you come back, they will remember, and if you ask them nicely, they will hide choice bits of metal for when you come in again."

I have a terrific place down the road a ways. I just drop stuff off, the odd motor, coil, box of non-ferrous swarf and of course plenty of lead. The owner lets me wander about and pick up whatever I want. I pay him whatever he asks as it is always scrap value plus a pound or two. I have walked out with some really nice pieces. I have found a box of donuts works well too because then everyone gets a bit of something, not just the owner.

graham.

Absolutely right. Do not assume you are covered. It matters very much how you approach the Credit Card company, being wholly truthful sometimes doesn't work for you. Sad but a sign of the times I'm afraid. Can guarantee the retailer "stretched the truth".

Well done to Hawke, I am in the market for a new pair of Binoculars and I will certainly look at them now.

graham.

So, we are nearly done now. Only a couple of things to do:

Made a bit of a tray for the stand to catch the swarf and any oil I use for cutting.

Now fitted with a parallel arm and all bearings remade with bit of Phos Bronze.

The vice sits exactly level with the steel shelf on the left so plenty of support for material as it is being cut.

The whole thing just slides away under the bench. Near Perfic! Just the stop to make and a bit of a weight for the arm. Thinking about fitting a spring to it to pull the arm down as opposed to just piling a load of lead on the front. No matter, It Lives!

Need some hacksaw blades next.

graham.

Yes Tony, you are quite right. It is section 75 of the Consumer Credit Act 1974. The important point to note here is that if the card has the Visa or Mastercard logo's on the front of the card - you are covered. Even if it is a "Debit Card". (Despite what the person on the other end of the phone at your bank says - you need to talk to the Supervisor and leave them with no illusions you are au fait with this Act.)

The total purchase, and this includes the postage (so if the goods are £90 and the postage £10 = £100) you are fully covered.

This is easy, go get yourself a "Pay as You go" Credit card from Morrisons, Tesco etc. And you are all set. Value of card could be as low as a fiver. And when you register the card online you can put any details you like in, so you can easily be confirmed at your non-existent address.

Bank account will cost you twenty five quid.

All too easy I am afraid.

graham.