Member postings for Rick Kirkland 1

I was lucky enough to find a colour match. Got it from Myford a year before they ceased to exist. Myford is no longer. Good luck finding anything that met their standards before things went pear shaped. And the prices for stuff with Myford printed on the packet that is available elswhere for a fraction of the cost has to be seen to be believed. Vee belts are a good point in question. Eight pounds thirty eight plus twenty percent VAT for a three pounds including VAT motor to countershaft belt ! Rant over,

Rick

Edited By Rick Kirkland 1 on 24/03/2014 17:01:18

Yes Mr Stevenson, I've been bitten with that particular coefficient in the past and now, depending what the job is I sometimes leave it in the chuck overnight and take the finishing cut the day after when all has settled down to an even temparature. It's surprising how the tenths diminish by taking a finishing cut on a workpiece that's a bit warm and then measuring it once it's cooled down.

Rick

Even I got that wrong! Your pulley is 101mm OD so work on a 93.5mm PCD. It's my toolpost grinder pulley thats 92.5 PCD. Too many things in me 'ead at once. Sorry about that.

Rick

Not quite Stevo, if it's A section 101 O/D then you must subtract the 3.75mm from both sides otherwise you're only subtracting it from the radius. So 101mm minus 7.5mm gives you a PCD of 92.5mm or make it 92 for ease of belt calculation. Obviously do the same for the other pulley and you wont go wrong. To get your speed ratio divide the pulley PCD's and if you have 50mm driver and 150 mm driven you have a speed reduction of 3 : 1. All the best

Rick

Here here!, although shouldn't that read" working to tenths is a sign that you know what you are doing"?

Rick

Hi Stevo, first of all is your pulley "A"section or "Z"section, formerly known as FHP? If it's A then the measurement across the top of the vee will be 13.29mm. If it's a Z section this will be 10.18mm. Once you know the belt section you can work out the pitch circle diameter of the pulley. The pitch circle of a Z section pulley sits 2.75mm below the pulley outer diameter. On an A it sits 3.75mm below O/D. You will need the PCD of both the driver and driven pulleys and the centre distance to work out your belt length. Another figure comes into play depending on the relative sizes of the pulleys and this is called the Arc Correction Factor but in some cases especially with drives which are provided with belt tension adjustment this figure can sometimes be circumvented by other methods. You should find that bearing stockists also sell vee belts, wether endless or sectional. They certainly do where I live. I got a couple of drive belts last week cos I've made a clutch and fitted it to myML7. The pair of them, one for the countershaft to mandrel and the other for the motor to countershaft cost six pounds. Hope this helps

Rick

Right on Martin! The way it was explained to me by an old engineer who used to work scraping slides for DSG was that over time the cutting pressure, ie from the chuck end towards the tailstock end caused wear such that at "some point in the future" the lathe would start facing flat and later would start facing convex which is of no use at all, therefore all the best lathes were given an inbuilt but limited amount of concavity. That from the days when engineers were just that and not a bunch of folk with the knowledge to recognise a lathe and the nerve to call themselves engineers. CONCAVE ! FOR A REASON!  Not something up for debate.

Rick.

Edited By Rick Kirkland 1 on 23/03/2014 11:48:15

Hello Bill and David. I'm in the same position with the Brit. I live in Chesterfield and got all of my bits from Norm but the plans do leave a lot to be desired. I posted a thread last year asking if any builder had a listing of the plan errors to save me dropping down a black hole and the best advice was to do as some other great model engineer did and check them all with CAD. Brilliant when you have the equipment and the ability but I do not. I've not machined my gunmetal cylinders yet but having looked at them recently I get a horrible feeling that the steam port cores were misplaced when the moulding boxes were rammed. This is going to cause large holes to appear at each end of the cylinders when they are bored. Oh dear! Might have to overbore and fit liners cos I've seen the current price of these items. Knowing Norm he would turn in his grave. My greatest fear was rivetting together assemblies and then finding I have to strip something down cos I should have done section Y before fitting section M and then trying to get part Z in place, if you see what I mean. However, I'm also a believer in learning by mistakes and these are some of the lessons which I dont forget. If anyone offers to share advice with me I shall then share it with you and that way we may get a few Britannias under steam before we croak! Just remember that working this stuff out stops your brain setting like concrete and that you're not alone in this, the King of hobbies!

Regards

Rick

Hello, you say you have much to learn. Well to be honest we all do, however, one thing to remember is that cutting pastes are mostly for application to hand operated cutting tools and some slow working mechanical ones such as pipe threading machines. Soluble and non soluble liquids are used for turning, milling drilling and boring in order to lubricate the cutting edge of the tool and also to cool it. This is not acheivable with cutting paste. I use either a brush or a trigger operated spray bottle to apply my soluble oil and also the neat cutting oil. It used to contain kitchen spray and when the pump wears out theres always another spray bottle just about to come empty from some household cleaning fluid or other. Good recycling and cheaper than a lathe coolant pump that will possibly spray it all over the place.

Happy engineering

Rick

Hello DW, its called a feedscrew and once the slide has been wound back and removed from the saddle and the ball handle unscrewed, the feed dial is then unscrewed from the end of the feedscrew which then can be removed from the bearing. Hope this helps.

Rick

Ian, I've got the SDS62V on my lathe and none of it correlates with either imperial or metric divisions on the feed dials. Also button pushing hasn't done any good as none of the instructions in the manual match what happens on the display. It does'nt help that the manual is written in Chinglish, a language I'm only just beggining to understand. I may be shouting for help myself soon.

Rick

Russel, I thought for a moment I was looking at a photo of my bench till I realised there was an owl on the coffee mug and no coffee in it!

Rick

As Michael says, nice job Bill. That was the jig method I used when doing a re furb on my brothers ML4. The mandrell was so butchered I had to make a new one and so I used new gears. Your little photo shoot captures nicely the way such jobs can be carried out and will benefit the newbies amongst us.

Rick

Hi Peter, [email protected] states on his murad web page that he would be very interested to hear of anyone who posesses a murad cadet. When I was doing metalwork at school in the 1960's we had four of these in the metal work shop. I bet they were all scrapped, mores the pity.

Rick

I drilled me ML7. It just had to be done to fit the Super 7 style clutch that I've just made for it. It's got to be drilled again as well for the drive belt guard to be fitted and hinged for easy access to the belt for speed range changing. Fourty two years without being drilled and then I go and do it. Clutch is brilliant though. Well worth a few drilled holes!

Rick

Believe it or not but back in the day I used to be a potter and if we needed anything like this we made our own out of clay and fired it in the kiln giving it infinite durability. Quick and easy to make with designs only limited by the individuals imagination. A brass one! Absolute luxury. How times have changed. . mumble . . mumble. . .

Rick

All I will offer, Bill is an observation. It's not Myford anymore, where ENGINEERS and TIME SERVED CRAFTSMEN actually MANUFACTURED machinery and tooling to a HIGH STANDARD. It's now apparently something carrying the name whereby the items sold may bear a Myford label but on point of origin two words spring to my mind. India and China. Good luck with anything Myford in the future. If , hoever, I'm wrong and this stuff is in fact made in England then it's sad to hear about the quality.

Rick.

Does he sell Chinese lathes, by any chance?

Rick

No it doesn't locate a key! Otherwise the pulley could not rotate on the spindle when back gear is engaged! Don't attempt to tighten the grub screw onto the spindle. It's there to cover the lubrication hole on the early type of cone pulley.

Rick

Ay up Rob, I'll just take this opportunity to say I told you so. Now then, I've never in my life known a run of the mill lathe have anything other than morse tapers for head or tailstock. Jarno tapers were not used because they were just too good believe it or not! It was a similar thing with video tapes. Betamax was superior but VHS was the one we were given.

Rick