Member postings for Andrew Entwistle

I updated from 7 to 10 and found the process quick and seamless, with every driver found and all but one piece of software working; virtual XP no longer worked because my processor hardware virtualisation is not fully supported by Windows 10. This prevented me from using my choice of 2D CAD program, so I reverted back to 7 within the month, again quick and seamless.

Andrew.

I use Rustins metal lacquer for keeping a bare metal appearance but protecting from rust. It goes on like water without leaving brush strokes but has kept anything lacquered in the cellar rust free for more than three years now.

Andrew.

Hi Bruce,

I made one with very similar dimensions to Chris Clickspring's drawing but with ball bearings so that it could be spun up with a Dremel. Using string I also found that it was 'top heavy', it needs to run above 10,000rpm to stay in a horizontal position https://youtu.be/N6EogFmO-7A. I made another last weeked with my 9 year old nephew with the flywheel 11mm thick, 15mm rim and 2mm web and this one with point and cup bearings works well using string to run it up.

Andrew.

Edited By Andrew Entwistle on 10/12/2015 18:10:18

Hi Paul,

the start switch is a momentary jog switch so is working as intended. As Bazyle suggests to run continuously move the lever with the red ball knob, to the right of the carriage in the required direction (down for conventional forwards direction).

Andrew.

Edited By Andrew Entwistle on 05/12/2015 19:47:53

Hi Ady,

I bought this combination of 63mm face mill and arbor for my Chester Eagle 25/ Axminster ZX25 etc type mill (M12 drawbar) and have been very pleased with it:

**LINK**

MT3 22mm shell mill arbor from Glostertooling.co.uk

Andrew.

Ian, sorry I missed your earlier post about the eBay rotameters you bought. Surely one of those plumbed to push-fits with the valve fully open will be perfect to detect even 1/50 of a CFM flow?

Andrew.

Hi Ian,

I am not very knowledgeable in this area, but we just installed one of these datalogging flowmeters at work to meter the compressed air used by a company we share the building with.

**LINK**

It works at up to 16bar. It must be possible to get a much cheaper non logging version (this one was about £1k).

Andrew.

Edited By Andrew Entwistle on 21/08/2015 19:49:36

Hi,

I have been happy with these;

**LINK**

once the initial rubber smell wears off. They have other options too.

Andrew.

Ctrl u

Hi, we have the equivalent Warco GH1236 lathe at work and I removed the headstock end leadscrew cover to be able to get close enough to the faceplate and collet chuck by just unwinding and removing the spring around the leadscrew. There was no need to remove anything else. I guess it is the same story for the tailstock end.

Andrew.

Thanks Jason, it is reassuring to hear that the eccentricity is not likely to be to do with balancing - because I have already machined the inside of the rim true to a profile using a silver steel form tool and the rotary table! I think this approach was unavoidable because the inside was simply not round. I did a quick calculation of the mass of the eccentric material removed as around 20g which only represents about 4% of the rim mass of the 7" flywheel.

Andrew.

Hi,

I have just started construction of the Hemingway Ransome Mill engine and when setting up the flywheel on a faceplate I noticed that there is quite a runout on the inside diameter of the rim with respect to the rim outer, groove and the hub. I wonder is this intentional to provide balance weight against the reciprocating action? There is no mention of this in the drawings or in the ME construction article from 2001.

Andrew.

Another possibility if you particularly want a wedge type set is from here

**LINK**

The smallest type would be about £135 with shipping by air mail.

I can recommend this piston type toolpost from Warco

**LINK**

Andrew.

Another option I have been considering this weekend is Hemingway

**LINK**

I was pleased with their Marlco clone knurling tool kit but don't know how the engine kits rate.

Andrew.

Edited By Andrew Entwistle on 01/03/2015 15:08:51

My 3D printer actually falls more into the home made category. I made the extruder from scratch and used it to optionally replace the woodworking router / outrunner spindle on my ex-education CNC machine running under Mach3. Total cost for the 3D printer option - stepper motor, driver, heaters, controllers and bed etc. was no more than £100. After a couple of months I have still not made anything genuinely useful that I could not have made by turning and milling. it is very satisfying though to make a 3D design one evening, then during the following day it is manufactured (less fettling) whilst I am at work.

I printed the 3/8" ratchet that was also printed on the ISS - incidentally it was not needed there, it was an exercise in designing something remotely to where it might be needed. Anyway you would think the 3/8" square drive would shear off easily since as Jason suggested it was printed as layers, but I found that it withstood the kind of force that you would expect to shear the same part if it was moulded. With ABS I often treat the print to an acetone vapour bath which fuses the exposed edges and reduces the propensity to delaminate.

Andrew.

Another possibility is to use hot melt glue to attach the aluminium to the MDF. The aluminium will release cleanly from the glue after dripping isopropyl alcohol onto it. If the aluminium is pre-heated with a hairdryer / hot air gun the bond will be sufficient to carry out the trepanning operation.

Andrew.

Edited By Andrew Entwistle on 01/02/2015 20:57:24

Edited By Andrew Entwistle on 01/02/2015 20:57:46

Edited By Andrew Entwistle on 01/02/2015 21:00:00

I have used the M&W 200mm digital calipers and also a pair of the ArcEuroTrade Large Orange LCD Display calipers for over a year now at work with no sign of the battery in either flagging. The feel of both is also much closer to that of my Mitutoyo Absolute calipers than the Aldi/Lidl/eBay cheaper calipers.

Andrew.

Hi David,

You could always buy the 100 x 914 belts to fit the popular Clarke CS4-6D sander (available in a choice of grades locally from machinemart or from clarketooling.co.uk) and cut them into two belts. I think this would be possible, starting with a Stanly knife and continuing with scissors/shears.

Andrew.

It sold on eBay 26th June - see http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Axminster-X2-Hobby-Mini-Milling-Machine-Model-Engineering-/201116186613