Member postings for Chris123

Interesting.

I wasn't given a choice of what type of finish.

This the part:

Edited By Chris123 on 09/02/2014 04:21:41

I need some parts cutting from aluminum sheet and am considering laser cutting.

Does anyone have any pictures of what the edge finish would be like?

I have had parts water jet cut before and the finish was terrible.

Thanks,

Anodising new parts is relatively easy if it is a good grade of aluminum.

How big is the part?

Bear in mind that using some battery acid with a car battery charger and food colouring isn't going to work.

You you need to buy decent stuff in the first place. You also need to consider cooling for the tank (if it will get a lot of use).

Dye tanks, stripping tanks (not always), sealing tanks need to be heated to. Generally between 40-100c so you can't use fish tank heaters.

Gateros Plating are good for stuff.

Caswell claim their products work miracles, take anything on their website with a pinch of salt.

I've been umming and arring over starting an anodising forum for the past year...

Edited By Chris123 on 08/02/2014 15:20:03

www.intrincycle.co.uk

happy to do small orders

No idea.

Some of us have studied consumer law though.

People need need educating on it TBH as retailers like to fob you off with inaccurate information.

Youve quoted the terms and conditions of a courier company, that isn't UK law! Even stranger the quote seems tohave come from a foreign courier company?

Anyway, the courier can say what they like, the consumer dealt with the supplier, the courier company has nothing to do with him.

I don't believe their is any courier company who will let you open a box before you've signed for it. Believe me I've tried! as for signing to say it's in 'good condition' how do you know the courier company hasn't trashed the parcel then opened it and put the contents into a new undamaged box?

The supplier is solely responsible as the courier is a third party. But the courier is responsible to the supplier.

Just off to build one of these.

You can reduce the dot size by putting a piece of tape over the end and pushing a pin through the tape to make a tiny hole.

I was going to make s stepped shaft to fit in different sized collets. Bnt now I'm making something that fits round the spindle so I can leve it in permanently.

Can't you just use a 1" square aluminum bar, attach a short round bar to fit into a collet, then drill an angled hole to hold a cheap laser pointer?

The hole would have to be angled towards the chuck otherwise you wouldn't get the angle right.

Edited By Chris123 on 25/01/2014 10:28:45

Evening, I require some 3.5" aluminium solid rod cut into smaller pieces, approximately 14 cuts.

I will obviously pay, I could do with it doing sometime between Christmas and New Year.

Thanks,

Hi, yes the chuck body had 0.06mm variance on the dial gauge.

Strangely the next day I looked at it again, took everything apart and cleaned it and it's back to 'normal' now. The chuck body is now back to 0.02mm on the dial gauge.

The 0.4mm on the dial gauge was on a straight bar that I use to centre the tailstock, the further from the chuck the worse it got. This seems to be back to circa <0.05mm now.

Thnaks for for your help, out of interest what sort of runout do people get in a 3 jaw chuck?

Hi, I cleaned the scroll and the jaws first and it made no difference. I'm fairly sure the runout on the chuck body used to be 0.02mm, and the backplate <0.01mm.

Runout was measure with a normal dial gauge, spindle runout moved it approx. 10% between the 0.01mm graduations.

I suddenly seem to have 0.06mm runout on my 3 jaw chuck. The back plate measures 0.02 out, the far end of the chuck 0.06 out and anything more than 2" length from the chuck is 0.4mm out!

It was fine last time I used it and it's not been taken off the lathe!

I've checked the runout on the L00 lathe spindle and it's 0.001mm, there doesn't seem to be anything wrong with the spindle or chuck fittings and I've tried varying the bolt tightness from the chuck to back plate.

Any ideas?!

Edited By Chris123 on 09/12/2013 00:12:50

Edited By Chris123 on 09/12/2013 00:18:51

That's looks like it's part of a UPVC style door lock?

I have a door at previous workplace that always breaks those, it's a nightmare, we replace the lock every 6 months - 1 year!

Guarantee is in addition to your statutory rights.

Retailers often hide behind the non-mandatory guarantee.

NGO and read the sale of goods act.

Thanks, will look into it.

Does anyone know somewhere in east Manchester where I can get some steel parts hardened?

I don't have time to do it myself.

Thanks,

http://www.anorak.co.uk/288298/scare-stories/the-daily-mails-list-of-things-that-give-you-cancer-from-a-to-z.html/

Hi, yes the 8% HSS ones. I've tried heat and it didn't work so I'll just make another one.

Thanks.

Some good ideas, thanks.

Its probably easier just to re-make the part if expanding it with heat doesn't work, I just wondered if there were an tricks someone might know that I didn't!

I was using carbide as it was the only drill bit I had in the right size! I've bought some HSS now.

I have managed to snap a carbide drill bit in a mild steel part I am making.

It is a 2.5mm drill bit, and has snapped below the entrance of the hole.

Is heating the part to expand the hole worth trying do you think? Alternatively, any other ideas?

Thanks,