Here is a list of all the postings clogs has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: bakerlite substitute |
06/10/2013 18:58:47 |
Good evening, anyone know of a substitute material very similar to Bakerlite..... I need to fabricate a few items, Horn buttons switch knobs etc for an old car... Nylon just doesn't look or feel right......would prefer muddy black in color but "Beggers can't be choosers" many thanks Frank |
Thread: silver steel |
01/10/2013 04:11:55 |
Hi I have a 1920, 35HP car with a poorley gearbox....need to replace the case hardened layshaft...... first the repair must be able to be good for 5,000 miles per year for at least five years......this is no museum piece...... the gears run submerged in oil and the gear set has heavy bronze bushings.. can I use silver steel as is..??........have read the threads on hardening and seems to be a very complicated subjuct......if it needs to be hardened and tempered I woud do the machineing of oilways and location flats first the after the heat treatment have it centerless ground.....how much over size for the grinding....the original shaft is 19mm dia....and is there anyne able to do it or recomend anywhere..??..... many thanks Frank |
Thread: power threading |
01/10/2013 03:32:23 |
OK, I've had enough of this threading by hand, just done a dozen m14x2 bolts (30mm thread length) in st / st..... so now the new dumb questions :- 1. Have looked at the Cov / D / heads and there are some listed at 3/4 and 1inch, I'm guessing that this is the max thread size that'll go thru ?? 2. will say M1.25 thread chaser / cutters cut threads on m6 - m12 using one cutter set or do u need individual cutters for each diameter bolt ?? many thanks Frank |
25/09/2013 17:38:52 |
Thanks Thor.......have looked at all those atachements.....would like to see them in the flesh and under power (setting up)......looked at quite a lot of stuff on U-Tube as well and have decided to go down the small three jaw chuck route in the tail stock.....will take a chance on the slowest speed.....I.shall make a drive plate and tube so that it can be mounted it in a collet chuck assy.....(like the idea of a bit of safety, it will spin if there's a problem)....I think the other stuff u recomend might want some setting up - beside I have good HSS dies...I just need to turn up a die-stock holder for the chuck......it all for 4 of those an 6 of another bolt......I guess those atachement would be good for the large dia. stuff or threading bar.... I'm prepared to take a calculated risk. many thanks Frank |
20/09/2013 04:54:41 |
Ctrl/Cmd+V Hi guy's,
need to ask a dumb question.......
I'm rebuilding a 1928 Citroen and need to make hundreds of nut's and bolt's between 6mm - 14mm........where possible I will use the modern threads, but the old threads are not easily available and quite a lot I want to use st / steel, 303 grade....besides most of the bolt's are specials......
so the question is......without spending hundreds of £'s.......my Colchester Student and Bridgeport (both are 3 phase and run direct from the mains) are too fast I think to cut threads on their slowest speeds, not wanting any unnecessary breakages any suggestions.....I don't mind threading a few by hand....... BUT......any suggestion's please.....
many thanks Frank |
Thread: Colchester Student Lathe |
31/05/2013 05:39:54 |
Hi, thanks for taking the time to reply....all time is valuable.... have joined the Colchester forum....no replies yet... No I havent used a bar in the chuck - will do tomorrow..... the jaws look real good but will inspect tomorrow (in general the machine has not done a lot of work) as for the chuck spinning freely (in a false neutral) I'd say there was no drag...ie. bearing pre-load.... my machine no. F2/70869..is there a work-shop repair manual on-line ?? will let u know......many thanks gentlemen..... Frank cloggs |
29/05/2013 17:47:14 |
Hi out there, hope somebody can give a little advice......
I have a Colchester Student lathe with a square top, can't find the machine no......I guess this vib problem has just crept up on me ....... I've not had it for too long (5-6 years) I know where it came from and it's not a worn out dog....... I think I need to adjust the headstock bearing's.......this is because of a bad vibration / chatter when parting off or taking a medium cut.....anything heavy is out of the question......my work never goes over 2.5 inches in dia....
the chuck has no play in it that I can feel by rocking it and it is very quiet.....if the gearbox selectors are placed between gears ( a false neutral ) the chuck spins quite freely........the box is also up to the mark with clean oil......
I have even taken to buying new carbide tipped tools (Sandvik) and also after sharpening my normal cutter's I've polished the cutting edge on an oil stone....this has improved the cutting finish but not the vibration.....
when the chuck starts to vibrates I'm sure I can see it wobble.....I'm to scared to take any heavy cut's and am always steady and careful as can be when turning, but it's now getting too bad and I can't say I'm enjoying the experience at all.....I normally machine mild steel and 306 stainless, I 've not tried any ally yet.....as for parting off I obviousley keep the job as near as poss to the chuck....I can help ease the vib's if I use a rotating steady but I can't always use one though......
So my thought's are with the head stock adjustment / preload.......idea's / help, please......
many thanks, Frank Cloggs |
Thread: Flying Bridgeport, where to start!? lots of questions. |
10/03/2013 06:06:36 |
hi, congratulations on the BP, just done exactly the same....bigger is better.......
I'm lucky enough to have three phase at home, actually just looked for 3/ph first and then the house....anyway
All the electrickery in the control box on mine was in a right mess, partially burnt main contactor and one of the others was rattling.....so along with the stupid positioning of the box and all the problems I've decided to rewire the whole machine and place 3 new stop /start novolt switch box's, along with an emergency stop / panic button and the on/off switch for the new low voltage lighting on a swinging arm above the table.....hope there will be enough room for a cup holder.......once I work out how to send a photo I'll post one of what I've done.....as for paint -- treat ur'self to some new CD's with the money.....
Incidentaly :- spend on hour going over every screw and nut on the BP especially the electrical connections,
all mine were quite loose, by being loose I'm sure this is whats caused mine to burn out.....please check the condition of the wiring, even in the control box, mine had started to crack..age and oil I guess....make a special job of the panic button if fitted, mine was under the table, cobbled up with silicone to keep the coolant out.....it still had a puddle in there......
Make a good job of the earth lead to the machine, I've run a separate one as well.....
There is a dedicated Bridgeport forum on yahoo.groups.....worth a look and cost's nowt....
Enjoy ur BP......Frank Horton |
Thread: steel grades |
06/03/2013 18:03:32 |
Hi again, sorry should have said, the shakle pins are running in bronze bushings ... the pin diameter is 16mm......Living in France bolts tend to run at about 4 / 5 times the price of the UK and this sorof size would have to be ordered, therefore I think it best to buy bar stock........which I'llprobably get from the UK direct... many thanks Frank . |
05/03/2013 20:55:02 |
Hi I'm a newbie to this forum, hello and here goes..... I need to turn some leaf spring pins for a 1930's Citroen, I always have some mild steel but I think I should be useing something better....the finish size will be 16mmX150 long.... can someone explain simply the characteristics of the steel I might use, ie.....soft, won't take shock's in shear, better to use ???? etc etc...I dont have the facilities or the skill to harden steel......this won't be used for everyday transport but dont' want them to break either..... many thanks Frank |
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