Member postings for Hillclimber

Does your prototype allow you to access the oiler at the tailend of the Myford motor?

OK, so clickbait worked...

But what I discovered looking at the site was 'Safeflame' - generating hydrogen and oxygen supplies by electrical separation of water to fuel the burner. What a great idea.

But does it exist? Is it available in 'hobby' style price ranges? Could not find any products....

Cheers, Colin

'But I'm not going to tell you where'?

*the market responds*

Guess I'm going to have to buy one of Brian's books too.... !

In which case you do need the metric conversion set, including quadrant, I'm afraid.

Alternatively, you could just take the gearbox off and sell it to me, which makes the conversion much easier.....

Cheers, Colin

First question. Do you have a gearbox? Whether you do or not determines the answer....

Cheers, Colin

Guilty. And I mentioned 'cutting', because of use of a die. Yes, there might be a wee bit of displacement going on too - but it's a cutting tool, right?

Cheers, Colin

4mm should do it too, as you're cutting it - not rolling it. Or at least not > 4mm.

But let that be our dirty little secret. Shoot me down....?

Cheers, Colin

Interesting idea noted on a post here was that you may not need a QCTP if using insert-tooling. They proposed supergluing shims to the underside of each tool, as the cutting height is constant with insertable cutters.

So, if you're on a budget, and using insertable carbide tools....

However, I seem to have learned that I am using carbide for roughing and HSS for finish. And CCGT tips are amazing on aluminium when run at high speeds.

.....and he scores!

If you are using TIG, I should have thought pulse essential. But take a look at these, although the thread on the Miller site is a little old...

http://tinyurl.com/y7rl9u36

http://tinyurl.com/y846gung

Finally, I'd suggest you pay attention to those zinc vapours if you try welding. They are unpleasant and dangerous.

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/8356-soldering-die-cast-metal/

Yup, add a stub piece of hex bar of about 3/4" to your shopping list - clamp it in your chuck and it becomes the easiest way to get the thing on and off.

Surprised nobody mentioned a factory Super 7 Manual, or Ian Bradley's Myford 7 Series Lathe Manual?

I'd add to that an oil gun, Nuto 32 oil to put in it, and some VG68 slideway oil. I'd also pack some scotchbrite pads and big roll of paper towels if your machine has been lying idle.

Dont forget a set of whitworth spanners and imperial allen keys. Then set about shoving clean oil everywhere, and wiping the thing down.

Finally, start using it, playing with adjustments, and enjoying it.

You can then finally reflect on what kind of work you have to do. This is pretty much the path I have followed and am now adding the tooling I need to get my jobs done - several of which, include clamping systems and a drawbar, I have made myself on the lathe.

Cheers, Colin

This one?

http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=129915

I tend not to let beer in my workshop for the same reason?

*reaches for laser thermometer on shelf*

How was that knurling for you?

Today, I slot milled an aluminium bar to form a simple fence for the table of my pillar drill. And having the handwheel reference made the whole procedure soooh much easier....

Steve Tracey acquired the rights to Graham Meek's handwheel design, and industrialised it as a product for we mere mortals.

It's a brilliantly useful design, and execution is beautiful. Big advantage is that I can still have an eye on the workpiece while getting a total feed reading on the wheel.