Member postings for Hillclimber

***gamechanger***

Robbo, thanks. I checked how far the pillar currently has to drop below the level of the upper surface of the cross-slide, and it's about 11/16" with a 3.5" saw. So looks awfully as if a 5" blade should allow me to advance the attachment along the cross-slide without interfering with the pillar as the table surface will be about 3/4" higher.

5" saw on its way from Arc Euro....

You may also have noted that my attachment is, of course, aloft your old industrial stand. So thanks again for help with that.

Cheers, Colin

I know I can silde work by hand into the saw, but I was thinking more of pieces clamped to the table as being the problem.

But why not run the whole thing in reverse, other than the small matter of facing into an unguarded saw!?

Cheers, I found this one yesterday, which is how I worked out the problem of the the post descending into the cross slide rather than desired thin air. Watching it again, I see he does not manage to advance the table any further than me.

Sadly not. I tried that but could get the slots to span a couple of slots sensibly. I did also think of trying it on the raising block - but it's clear it wont 'reach' the saw.

WIth a job to do soon, I spent some time yesterday trying set-ups for a Myford saw table. Wondering if anyone has specific experience with one of these they can share.

Firstly, it was quickly clear that the stand has to be mounted on the first or last tee-slot of the cross-slide after removing the the topslide. This is so the bottom of the table's pillar can drop below the top surface of the cross-slide, else the table cannot be lowered over the saw.

The problem is then how far you can traverse the table of the saw. The leading edge of the advancing table would only go about 2" past the lathe centreline.

However, if I were to set the table up on the back of the cross-slide facing the operator, I found I could advance the table towards me to the full extent of the table's slot. First thought was that cutter rotation would be wrong - then realised I could flip the blade and run the lathe in reverse. Does that make sense?

Secondly, am I right in thinking the table cannot be used with saws of less than 3.5" diameter, else the underside of the table will collide with the arbor or some part of the tailstock?

After doing these rough setups with a chuck in place, I put the arbor between centres and it was unclear there was sufficient engagement between the driving spur and the arbor. Certainly not enough to 'wire'. Is this usual? Do I need a 'shorter' fixed centre?

Finally, and I'm making my way well down the list here, is it a good idea to 'bung' the hole in the cross-slide after lifting out the topslide? How?

Cheers, Colin

Yup, I used 18mm exterior ply - but cut in half by B&Q, and then glued and screwed on top of each other. So 36mm really. WIth that rubber sheet taped to the top....

Equally, I have the luxury of an additional folding, tilting, height adjusting welding table for hot work. How can these be made and delivered for £65?

I use 3mm rubber sheet from ebay. Roll it out, secure with double-sided tape, trim with Stanley knife.

Nice and quiet, and workpieces dont suffer damage from the surface itself.

Andrew, I tried looking for a match with a RAL/BS colour chart - and could not find a correct match. Hence plumped for a colour that I had a can of - Paragon's Myford cream, which I found to be closer than I imagined.

I cleaned up and painted a powerhead as I'm building it out with an attached pendulum control for VFD. And will post a pic....

Cheers, Colin

Has 'elf n safety not hit all that good stuff on the head?

Does anyone still offer a small-scale commercial service accessible to the amateur? I will soon have a bunch of tee-bolts I'd like to treat...

Cheers, Colin

Was the G96, this stuff?

http://www.g96.com/products/gun-blue-creme/

In my multi-dimensional space, I frequently rely on Namrick, GWR and good old fleabay to provide what is needed. The former if I have a variety of pieces I need, the last if I just need a couple of 'em or odd sizes.

But in terms of my immediate problem, I decided I just had to bite the bullet and make some. I found 5/16 bsf threaded rod - but now Myford are out of stock on tee-strip! RDG has 'unfinished' tee-strip, but I cant see that is any easier than just starting with bar material.

So if anyone has a further alternative, please....

Nige, thanks. Of course, their ebay shop is closed for hols....

But we're talking tee-nuts for machined slots here, right?

Cheers, the Myford 4" and 6" tee-bolts are apparently imperial anyway. But the smaller sizes metric. Of course, you cant just cut down the long ones, as they are partly threaded!

I may end up having to make 'em. Which would be easier if Myford sold imperial nuts I could tig onto threaded stock - but, yes, they're metric!

That's it, in one.

Call it anal, but I like my machine to be imperial, or metric, or SAE. I dont care, so long as it's one or the other. Same with cars.

And it seems the only commercial supplier of tee-bolts for the narrow Myford slots is Myford itself - hence disappointment their smaller sizes are metric, and that I cant find someone else knocking them out in BSF?

One would have thought!

The Chester set is 5/16 UNC (some convenience in same TPI as BSW, but does not include tee-bolts - just nts and studs).

Myford's larger sizes are 3/8 BSW, but smaller lengths are 8mm rather than 5/16 BSF.

See where we're going here?

Edited By Hillclimber on 15/08/2017 09:36:16

Tee-bolts are bringing out the OCD in me. While I have been asleep, has the entire world stopped manufacturing imperial tee-bolts for the cross-slide of my S7? Am I going to be reduced to making these instead of doing the job I'm supposed to be doing?

It appears that I can only find M8 tee-bolts for Myford slides, but I'd like 5/16 BSF so I dont have to keep on checking that bolts and nuts match....

Does anyone know where I can buy them?

Cheers, Colin

Myford cream is really quite close. And you'll know what it is next time......

Having learned a lesson about correct sequence of operation of the tumbler gears, I have my new tufnol gear waiting to be fitted....

Question is how do you remove the tumbler lever to replace the gear?

I see an inclined grub screw with locking nut behind the pivot lever. Is this holding it in place?

Any other advice you have on the subject also welcome.

Cheers, Colin

Have to ask, what is the mystery brand of your Chinese TIG. Obviously AC/DC?

Cheers, Colin

On alternatives, I routinely use ParcelForce for >2kgs. There is a discount of 15% using their loyalty card.

And for the largest, I still use Parcelforce - but access it by Parcelmonkey, which is a consolidator business. They have bulk discount with Parcelforce, you pay online, print a label and take it down to the depot.

Others, like Hermes and UKMail have incessant issues.

Cheers, Colin