Member postings for choochoo_baloo

For the record Slideway Services Brian quoted £160 for a full ML7 bed regrind, so slightly cheaper

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 19/07/2017 18:35:26

Thanks all that is all very useful.

After watching a few videos on 'hand scraping machine ways', I am tempted to do some myself for the dinged and dented ways of my aquired ML7. Can someone answer some general questions:

1. Have grinding machines have made hand scraping way redundant? If not, then wha are the unique advantages to hand scraping (aside from expense)?

2. Are a surface plate, marking paste, and scraper only required tools?

3. Is it something that truly rquires lots of skill, or more accurately: pateince and attention to detail.....This point is best explained by my experience in another hobby (7mm scale railways); I was led to believe that as a newcomer it would take *many* models before achieving a 'cabinet stand' finish. However after thorough research and a couple of practice models, I have achieved excellent results. I therefore struggle to see why some modellers are so daunted by painting.

Any advice gratefully received.

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 18/07/2017 21:05:20

Yes thanks for directly answering (though the other posts were useful!). I'll take some photos later and add them here. There are two pulleys.

Evening all.

Are 'hobby' sized airbush connections standardised (e.g. propane cylinder regulators)?

I bought a cheap ebay compressor airbrush set (was going to see how far I could go with it), and now wish to upgrade the airbrush - to the linked Harder & Steenbeck - and am hoping that my existing mositure trap will screw into this airbrush.

https://www.everythingairbrush.com/airbrushes/harder-steenbeck-airbrushes/airbrushes-harder-steenbeck-airbrushes-harder-steenbeck-airbrushes-ultra/harder-steenbeck-ultra-2-in-1-airbrush.html

Any advice gratefully received.

Started this thread to get suggestions as to why a second hand bench top horizontal mill is vibrating periodically - when offering up a slitting saw into a bar the cutting action is not continuous from the metal squeaking being obviously periodic (hope this description makes sense!)

I'm waiting on buying circlip pliers to properly disassemble the pulley mechanism in order to work back in stages to isolate the cause of the vibrations.

I can rule out the motor since in runs perfectly in isolation. Is it likely to be the knackered vee belts (there are some rough patches on one of them)? I read somewhere that replacing old vee belts on Myford lathes can cure similar periodic rubbing.

Forgot to add the photo;

As the photos show, my leadscrew handle is very patchy and cross slide wheel patchy; I wish to restore them both to ex-works finish.

Were original Myford hand wheels "hard chrome plated"? If so I was interested in having a go at home chrome plating. But having read this reference, I realise that would be irresponsible! https://www.finishing.com/faqs/chrome.shtml

Does anyone have experience of sending bits off to be replated at specialist electroplaters (I am yet to get a quote)? Or is it cheaper to just buy new handwheels?

Any advice gratefully received.

Thanks Andrew. That's reassuring to know I am asking sensible questions!! ATB Matthew

Right I'm confused! As suggested, I removed the 'thick shiny washer'. It is actually a step down bush. So I'm wondering why is the post block bored larger in the first place, to take this interference fit bush to bring it to the required stud diameter. The bush is only about half as deep as the tool post too, which agains seems poor.

I'm sure this is done on purpose. I cannot see why though.

So to maximise rigidity I plan to replace the 'thick shiny washer/bush' with a new flush full length bush; stud is then held along whole post, and the toolpost nut grips along its whole thread.

I can confirm the tool post and stud are of the lengths stated above.

So as to avoid any misunderstanding, are you all referring to the thick shiny washer at the bottom of the stack -I assumed that was part of the tool post piece -in which case removing it would make sense. Side on photo attached for clarity.

What purpose does it serve? Once again I am a newcomer - so which is the best way to do this?!

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 11/07/2017 20:25:24

Ah ok that figures thanks; as in that extending nozzle thing that I've seen on some Super 7 s?

In which case why is there no top shear nipple like for the front shear?

I've replaced the existing static tool post for a new Dixon quick change on my ML7. However the existing nut only half covers the protruding stud - see photo.

Given that this is the genuine Myford quick change tool post, am I right in saying either

a) the stud needs to be extended - is it threaded into the top slide casting

b) is this the correct nut

c) do I need to a (new correct) length top slide stud altogether?

As ever, any help is gratefully received.

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 11/07/2017 18:55:34

Hello all. Can someone tell me a) the thread & b) it's use, on the rear leg of my Myford ML7 saddle. For comparison I've placed an old style oil nipple next to it - clearly isn't 2BA.

I don't have any 1/4" bolts to hand, but Mike's offerings at lathe spares, made me test a 1/4" BSF tap into the threads. The 1/4" does seem right......assuming it is a 1/4" then why is mine threaded?

The aim is to place a nipple, http://www.lathespares.co.uk/myford-oil-nipple-raised-1-4 there. As there is currently no oiling point for the rear bed shear.

Thanks in advance.

Hello from a fellow novice. This forum is great for getting detailed answers to many beginner questions! Ask away!

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 10/07/2017 17:02:06

I seek recommendations for a thorough, truely beginner friendly book on general lathe work; for those of use who have no formal engineering training/apprenticeship, and whose careers are not in mechanical engineering.

I have had "Lathework: a complete course" by Harold Hall for a while, but agree with a significant number of amazon reviews that criticise his often muddled prose, poor images, poor image referencing etc. Basically not that helpful for a true beginner.

Therefore to avoid (hopefully) similar disappointment with another supposedly beginner lathework book, I thought it sensible to seek recommendations form the wise hobbyists on this forum this time round

To get the ball rolling: LH Sparey's book seems better reviewed than Hall's. Though apparently it dives in with assumed terminology?

Thanks all for the assistance. After some experimenting, I can confirm that the new brass style nipples are a lot more forgiving and have a better connection to the oil gun - no leaking anywhere.

So it was a successful design change after all.

My query is best illustrated by photos. I have a largely all original 1950s Myford ML7. I bought some new '2BA raised barrel' nipples from lathespares.co.uk

My machine has steel nipples as shown for comparison all over. However one is missing hence I bought some spares.The threads match, which I suppose is all that matters. But the heads are different sizes, and the original and new take 4BA and 3BA spanners respectively. Can someone explain why the heads are different to the originals?!

Are there original design nipples around, or is this an intentional design change for later nipples?

I the term "engineer" is used more readily because:

It's unambiguous when one is called a physicist/mathematician/volcanologist [i.e. a 'scientist'], it's implcit they have at least a bachelor's degree in the subject. Was told recently by a physicist that it's strongly discouraged to call yourself a scientist by the professional bodies e.g. Institute of Physics (though not illegal as it is with a solicitor) without a degree in a 'proper' discipline.

KNowing current epmloyed 'engineers', without a BEng etc makes me think that the more relaxed practise to using "engineer" in a title rather than "scientist" proably arose from the larger number sof men and women in these fields. (chaps in the bicycle workshop of a local bicycle shop are styled "bike engineers" and also a misconception that a professional scientist is only accessible with certain higher level qualifications, realistically a PhD now-a-days.

Before any critics come wading in; I am NOT suggesting that either discipline is superior to the other; just my thoughts as to why there is a more relaxed useage of the term "engineer"

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 03/07/2017 16:57:17

Mine is of this type. I re-read the instructions on the cylinder; it says that it is the only type compatible with the burner. So it will have to be a new stand alone torch I reckon.