Member postings for Bezzer

Bought one a couple of weeks ago from fleabay, Looked round, found a Chinese seller but had a Portsmouth location so no extra charges

I had a similar/same 2 axis set delivered this week, via fleabay,  very well packaged and finally a manual for a Chinese product in proper English not Chinglish. Pick a Chinese supplier with a U.K. location "base" to make sure you don't end up with tax and handling charges.

Edited By Mick Berrisford on 16/01/2020 11:48:23

Kerosene/Paraffin doesn't need any additives to work well degreasing, it does leave a bit of any oily residue but thats easily wiped off.

If there is a dispute over ownership then it's up to the parties involved to prove they actually own the vehicle, sales receipt, agreement signed by the keeper that it's a loan vehicle etc. That's all civil law.

Road traffic law is a different kettle of fish, first question to the driver is "is this your vehicle" if the driver says it's owned by someone else, no matter who the keeper listed is, then the owner can also be liable for offences committed.

You can Use, Cause or Permit offences e.g. driver gets stopped for a duff tyre he is Using the vehicle, the owner is also liable - Permitting the use with a duff tyre. Doesn't matter who the keeper of the vehicle is other than being responsible for declaring who the driver was at a certain time when officially asked ,verbally or written .

Depends on which DB10 there's Ian's as above or there's the older DB10G like mine. Imperial or Metric machine? Mine had some kind of "manual" which was less than useless, threading section was a waste of ink, no explanations whatsoever.

Easy enough if you follow the plate, I've only done metric threads on my imperial machine, you have to leave the carriage feed engaged for metric with an imperial machine not use the thread dial, others will say there is a way round this but it's no real problem to leave it engaged..Left hand set up figure is for metric, right hand for imperial. Picture was right way up, the album has put it on it's side...sorry

Edited By Mick Berrisford on 21/08/2019 23:30:15

Be interesting to see it stand up in court. The tests for noise levels when type approved have loads of parameters- Temperature, wind speed, humidity, speed, load etc then there's also the road condition/state, other vehicles in the vicinity and street furniture, can't be done in adverse weather or wind speed above 5 metres per second. The easiest way to get someone is if they have a non approved exhaust system, other than that you're struggling with this "simple" camera set up.

Nice compact reg tester Ian

Edited By Mick Berrisford on 03/05/2019 09:04:40

Too true, they are always on the side of the buyer unless the seller has a very very good excuse. I odered a couple of 10mm end mills and got sent a 22mm one, got offered a 50% discount if I kept it which I did. Then reordered the 10mm ones and again got sent another 22mm one . Another dispute and this time was given full refund and told to keep it, luckily they are 22mm but the shank is 20mm so I could use them with my ER32 collet chuck.

They are a common sight in most/every bike repair place as they are commonly used by many manufacturers, mainly front forks securing/tensioning and rear axle and suspension fitting. Got some commercial ones but also made a few from steel tube and old sockets grinding or milling the lugs when I couldn't source commercial ones. Depends on the size of the lathe one as to whether they are readily available, bike ones are probably up to 50mm across at most.

I decided to go for extra 4 way posts instead of a QCTP. Didn't make them though bought a couple of Boxford ones from RDG for my Chester DB10. Ideal size apart from being a touch too high, but had plenty of meat in the base to mill a bit off the bottom to get them just right. Prefer to just swop loaded ones over instead of a QCTP when other tools needed. Will probably get round to making some 2 way ones when I get chance.

Posted by Fowlers Fury on 18/12/2018 23:03:51:

Don't use alum if the carb is aluminum, if it's brass (or a bronze) then try it.
You may find it of interest to read this article if the carb is aluminium: "How to dissolve steel without affecting aluminium alloy" :-
**LINK**

I've used alum in aluminium alloy bike bits for broken taps in the past with no problem. I can't see where in your link it says don't, in fact alum is recommended by a couple of posters.

Edited By Mick Berrisford on 19/12/2018 00:09:35

Welcome Clive, I beat all those "I'm close" posters, I'm in Werrington.

I use a Surform rasp, prefer the 10" flat handle type though you can use the wood plane type handle ones. Shaves the alloy quickly leaving a decent surface and doesn't clog, replaceable blades though my current blade is some years old and had a fair bit of use on alloy.

Can't see it mentioned that a motor factors has been tried, someone did mention it earlier. I've just done an oil change & service on our Rav4, all bits from the local motor factors including the drain plug which had a crushable copper washer and a thick fibre washer with it. Hooked blister type pack so obviously they have various sizes, Well worth checking, Having a quick look at a couple of Motor Factors (GSF etc) they do list the 2000 Trooper for bits.

If you look at the Road Vehicle Lighting Regs exceptions list you will see that the majority of lights are not required for vehicles not capable of exceeding 25mph, 15 and 40 are also included for odd ones. A "daytime MOT" is a standard MOT test but with advisories that no lights are fitted/properly inoperable, this includes ALL lights including the front and rear position lamps which normally has no exceptions. I did have a reply from VOSA confirming this when I asked about it a few years ago.

**LINK**

Coffee Enjoy your thread while it lasts before a moderator appears and rightly deletes it. This is the TEA ROOM not the Coffee Shop.

The noddy bike was the Velo LE not the Valiant. Used in the 50s and 60s, they'd still got a couple at the station in'72 when I started

It's still Silicone though be it in oil, spray or grease form which as stated isn't really for metal to metal contact no matter what the advertising blurb says.

I bought my DB10g new about 11 or 12 years ago and haven't had a single problem with it at all. Keep thinking about a VFD for it to fix the only drawback with it which is it's 120rpm lowest speed for threading, not yet got round to doing it and just have to concentrate a bit more.

Others on here have also got one, not seen any of them complain about it that I know of.

Classic Plating do a starter type kit for £60, mate had one for motorcycle bits and got quite acceptable results. **LINK** . I'm going to get him to do the action of a PCP I'm currently working on, take it that's what you want it for.

Caswell do a superb kit but that's around £400