Member postings for Peter Spink

Interesting Rod, been thinking of doing the same on my Sharp mill.

Do you get any 'flap' with such a long belt?

Rear toolpost for me every time.

No mods to cross slide and easily removable if necessay but stays in place most of the time.

Made this to GHT design years ago but modified for a tipped insert (from Warco IIRC) and never looked back.

Invered chamfering tool on the other side - just takes a second to turn it round.

Same email here - sadly there's nothing in their store that would interest me now.

Thanks chaps for all your replies, my mind is made up and I have a birthday coming up!

My tailstock taper is worn (probably because of self ejecting at the wrong moment), so was due for attention.

Will need to break out the grey paint though 😄

Fed up with twiddling handle so have fancied one of these for some time:

**LINK**

Any disadvantages e.g. lack of self eject?

Possibility of mounting some sort of depth indicator?

Pretty minor mod to be honest and lacking a surface grinder a lot easier than removing metal from the (8) problem toolholders!

There does not seem to be a definitive dimension for the slot position in these toolholders with the result that many of the copies have this problem. Around £50 for a genuine Dickson and £20 for a copy, works for me . . .

Same here with a S7. I have a collection of toolholders gathered from different sources over the years, some of which wouldn't go low enough. Milled 50 thou off the topslide and problem sorted!

Having an increasingly large pile of drills that need sharpening, I decided to re-visit the four facet method. Many years ago I built the device to the design of Dave Lammas published in ME. I thought the basic design was sound but was never happy with the way the drill bits were held in a drill chuck and the attachment has been at the back of a drawer ever since.

Trawling the net, there are several attachments which incorporate ER type collets to hold the drill bit and this seems to be a much better arrangement. Hence, I bought an ER20 holder from ARC with the intention of building a completely new unit but today I happened to dig the Lammas jig out of the drawer and was pleasantly surprised to find that there's enough 'meat' in the casting to enlarge the bore to fit the ER20 collet holder.

Above is the result - hopefully I've saved myself a lot of work

Edited By Peter Spink on 07/02/2019 21:41:07

Many thanks Thor - that drop down box wasn’t working last night but is now so I’ve ordered a 33T for a tenner.

Already have a 34T 👍

I have four VFDs in the workshop and each takes around 15 watts on standby.

I reckon that’s about £70 a year 😳

Hmm, was thinking of going this route but 33T and 34T changewheels not on the Myford or RDG site anymore.

At £263 for the metric conversion kit I wonder why 🤔

This is my version using ARCs attachment.

Mounted on a 2MT the whole bearing assembly was machined at the same setting to be concentric on the mill.

Ideal for spotting using the DRO.

Edited By Peter Spink on 18/01/2019 16:15:53

Never had a chuck unscrew when stopping the motor but had a back plate mounted ER collet chuck unscrew when using the clutch which concentrated the mind somewhat . . . 🙁

So without expensive test gear and no obvious effects e.g. DAB radio being even more useless than normal, how do you know if your VFD is putting shash back down the mains?

I have four VFDs in the workshop and have no obvious problems.

Yup, usual knee jerk reaction targeting the easy option rather than tackling the root cause of the problem.

As ever, the majority of law abiding citizens such as me, a gun owner and model engineerr will have to restrict our harmless activities because of the actions of lawless morons.

Politicians . . .

Surprised this hasn’t come up in the thread so far.

**LINK**

Discuss!

Pete

These

at Homebase.

Battery operated 'Barbecue Light' - clamp on or magnetic.

Pretty good for extra lighting, long flexible arm and only a tenner each!

Spirowrap is great stuff but you lose the will to live after ther first few inches - and a pain in the backside if you find you need an extra wire in the loom - how do I know this :-D

Good old lacing cord is much easier and cable ties done properly are fine - what would we do without them!

But the standard of wiring I've seen in these pics and the earlier posts is, frankly, abysmal.

Are these pics really as the machine was supplied?

That wiring is absolutely dreadful.

Nickel it is - many thanks!