Member postings for Peter Spink

Yup, had one on mine for years with no probs whatsoever.

That's what I think is great about this forum - the diversity!

I find this LINK excellent - nice and sticky!

Hi Dave,

Yes I did get one and very pleased with it - I too wish I'd bought one years ago.

As regards extraction, so far I must admit to using lump of M12 studding as a rapping bar - crude but works until I get round to making something more sophisticated!

Peter

To add to the reamer discussion, I always though a reamer was to 'take out the last few thou'.

However, having an interest in firearms, I was quite surprised to find that in the gunsmithing world a 'chamber reamer' actually cuts out quite a large amount of metal, starting with a parallel tube (the barrel) and forms the chamber for the cartridge to sit in. The reamer usually has a rotating pilot at the front and is best used with a floating holder in the tailstock to ensure alignment and concentricity.

And lots of suds down the barrel to clear the swarf.

As above ^^^^

Also the engraving on the right is inferior - a real giveaway!

A sad loss when rude or unthinking words cause a valued member to leave a forum.

I am a member of an unconnected (shooting) forum where anybody who is out of order is immediately binned by the moderators and their posts deleted - just saying!

Nah, why should they be?

Sometimes you have to trust the people who design these things.

Sorry, ignore that - have found the thread. Nice job!

Vic, nice toolholder - what is it?

Beech for me - machines well and doesn't corrode tools.

Small, useful pieces usually available on *bay at reasonable prices.

I made one of these: **LINK**I during my caving days.

Advantage was to be able to take a bar out if the descent was too slow . . . .

Figure of eight descenders had a bad reputation for twisting the rope.

Bit of a leap of faith abseiling off a 200 foot drop for the first time but still here to tell the tale 😄

I think the loose clamp should be just below the top assembly and used to stop it descending rapidly if you slacken off the locking handle. It's bl**dy heavy!

I had the same problem which drove me mad for ages, probably caused by slight wear on top part of column.

Replaced original small handle with much larger one. Handle boss has blind tapped hole. Long spacer keeps handle away from column. Thrust bearing between handle and spacer.

Replaced bolt with piece of studding running through square spacer with nut on left.

Square spacer has corner cut away to engage with cut-out on column clamp and stops it rotating.

Studding has part of thread machined away to allow cap screw to lock position of studding when nut has been tightened to set handle throw.

It all works so well that the handle could be a bit shorter but haven't got round to it yet.

A lot of faff but works a treat!

Posted by AdrianR on 03/05/2019 16:54:32:

When I was a much younger man I used to go to the shop in Dartmouth with my parents. Mum would go shopping leaving me and Dad to browse, it was a wonderful place.

When I was much younger, I visited their original shop in Isleworth many times!

I still have a lump of ground steel I purchased from them which I use as a surface plate.

Always been very happy with their quality and service

Er, no . . . Good point!

Thats an interesting site and maybe worth a try in future

Problem is, with the cost of paint now, and having spent £25 + so far, I would need a guarantee that it would match!

Ah . . . , 50 Shades of Grey!

Recently acquired a tailstock rack and although the mounting casting was a shade of grey, it didn't match my lathe.

Dug out a tin of Myford Grey enamel which I'd had for years, gave it a good stir and put on a coat - nothing like!

Looked online and ordered a tester of RAL 7011 'Iron Grey' - as on my rear toolpost casting - nothing like . . .

Ended up using a tin of spray paint from B&Q 'Dark Grey' best match so far.

Still not quite right but it will have to do!

I think the paint must age with all the gunk in the atmosphere.

Two buttons (one make and one break) and a 10k pot are all you need for basic control of this VFD.

If the volts disappear from the device it will need a start command to run again so NVR is sorted anyway!

Many thanks for that Rod, I had put off this mod thinking I may have to incorporate an idler in the middle.

If I could be cheeky and ask you to PM me with the belt length and pulley ODs that would be much appreciated!

Regards

Peter