Member postings for Graham Green 3

I did and be buggered if I can work it out.

Whoever thought this lot up, needs a good kick in the 'slats'.

Edited By Graham Green 3 on 21/03/2017 07:25:13

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Edited By Graham Green 3 on 21/03/2017 06:43:04

Edited By Graham Green 3 on 21/03/2017 06:43:37

Edited By Graham Green 3 on 21/03/2017 06:43:50

Gentlemen, thank you very much for that information, much appreciated.

Here's what's on offer at Aldi Australia this Wednesday the 17th Feb, now is it a starter to get anybody hooked , or, is it just a piece of junk ?

https://www.aldi.com.au/en/special-buys/special-buys-wed-17-feb/wednesday-detail-wk07/ps/p/3d-printer/

It's an early Australian made Sherline, before the rights to the lathe was sold to Joe Martin, have a good look at the headstock and you can see where the Sherline 'stick on sticker' has come adrift.

Ooops, my apologies, it's been rectified, see if it can be viewed now.

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/radish1us/library/tooling/Toolpost?sort=3&page=1

regards graham

Edited By Graham Green 3 on 05/07/2015 22:01:07

Edited By Graham Green 3 on 05/07/2015 22:01:38

Did it look anything like this one ? ? ?

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/radish1us/library/tooling/Toolpost?sort=3&page=1

regards Graham

It appears that the link I posted is not working, so I'll try again, you might have to highlight it to make it work for you ---------------

--- http://www.toolsandmods.com/lathe/mini-lathe-qctp ----

Jim Crawford, sorry for the late posting but I just came across it.

Don't try to make and use a 4 way or a 3 way toolpost on the U3, they take up far too much room on the short bed. The 4 way is far to big and the 3 way loaded with tools will continually stab/cut you.

Go for a simple single tool QCTP as per this one, ---------

http://www.toolsandmods.com/lathe/mini-lathe-qctp.

Works very well but it has one drawback ONLY, it is not repeatable when changing tools, who cares, it only means you have to take one cut and do a measure and away you go.

I made one very similar to the one in the above link and made 12 blocks and have them all loaded, best thing I have ever made for the 'mighty midget', so simple and yet so practical.

I do have a drawing for it if you so require.

regards Graham

Edited By Graham Green 3 on 04/07/2015 11:20:23

Edited By Graham Green 3 on 04/07/2015 11:20:59

Edited By Graham Green 3 on 04/07/2015 11:25:26

Gordon W has it sussed out, if the square stock can be squeezed into whatever collet, then just tighten it up and go for it. You can buy collets for square bits of material, but they are a bit on the spendy side, best just use what you have, lot's cheaper and they work on either round or square stock.

If you decide to buy Chinese tooling, then I'm afraid that I will have to advice you,-- that you ONLY get what you pay for.

Milling cutters and drill bits come to mind immediately here, they seem to leave some vital ingredients out of the molten metal when they are making them. I have had a 3/4 inch twist drill grab in a job and the flutes on the drill unwound, that would be about the best way of describing what happened to this soft twist drill.

It is the same with the milling cutters, the sharp edges just seem to melt away very quickly, then your pushing a blunt cutter into the work piece, this is very closely followed by the sound of the cutter snapping.

If you need tools that you will do the job adequately and last, then DO NOT buy the el-cheapo chinesy crud.

If you only work in wood or plastic, then buy them by all means.

Heard about doing it that way, but I haven't tried it yet, please do have a go and let's know how you get on.

Go get hold of 'Making Small Workshop Tools' by Stan Bray, page 64----- A Rose Bit, page 67---- A Box Tool.

The box tool, maybe that's what your thinking of.

The box tool is just the ticket for doing what you want to do, I made two of these, one for for making 12 BA coach bolts and the other for making 10 BA coach bolts.

I use bronzing rods for making the miniature coach bolts, for 12 BA I use the 1.6mm and for the 10 BA, I use the 2.4mm rods.

http://www.cigweld.com.au/product/gas-tig-rods/comweld-tobin-bronze/

Got photo's of the box tools I made, if you want them.

If you can hold the item tight, as per in a small bench vise or some such item, then you can use two hands to control one of these pin vises.

http://tinyurl.com/ngzcatg

I use one of these for tapping brass nuts for the models I make, the nuts range in size from 8 BA, 10 BA, 12 BA down to 14 BA.

When using one of these pin vises, I hold the top with the forefinger of the left hand and rotate the pin vise with my fingers and thumb of my right hand. The 12 BA is about the most popular sized square brass nut that I hand make and the 12 BA tap has done thousands of these tiny nuts. The only thing is, I have to watch where I put it down, as if it heads for the floor, then and only then will I have to replace the tap.

By using both hands, the control you have is quite good, you should try it out.

regards  Graham

Edited By Graham Green 3 on 19/03/2014 05:41:57

Siddley, have you had a look at just what horsepower these motors on a U3 are rated at ?

The U3 motor can get to be very sluggish, if somebody has decided to oil the sintered bronze bushes, with a 3 in 1 sewing machine oil - bad choice of lubrication that stuff.

This type of oil will dry out and clog up the sintered bronze bushes, then the bushes are acting like brake blocks, dragging and slowing everything down.

I bought a complete U 3 from the " evil-one " and the motor on it, was exactly as you have described, I carefully opened the motor and used a lot of paint thinners to dissolve this accumulated crud from the bushes.

Put it all back together and away it went, it will now hit the magic 4000 rpm again, it will NOT drill a 5mm hole thru 3mm ally in one go either, you have to sneek up on that size hole with the mighty midget.

Did a rather severe mod to another U3 motor and replaced the sintered bronze bushes with some BALL BEARINGS, wow, what an improvement, this ball bearing motor now has some balls about it .

This mod was printed in the Model Engineer many moons ago, think I even saw it on this site somewhere, it is/would be worth doing, if you want to keep the U3.

regards Graham

I hope no one is referring to this combo as a "load of garbage".

http://www.lathes.co.uk/emco/img10.gif

Brilliant combination and well thought out machine, if only the chinesey's had bothered to copy this model, then they might have had a winner.

regards Graham Green

Rod, the drawings from Ivan Collins, may not be of a Concord coach at all, but another makers coach.

Please visit this site, as this subject is still under discussion.

There is a lot of information to be had from with-in this group, please join and you eyes will be opened to all the intricacies, of building one of these models.

http://forum.scalemodelhorsedrawnvehicle.co.uk/

regards Graham

This site is just for Horse Drawn Vehicles, there is a forum as well.

There are some very knowlegeable persons available to answer just about any questions you might have about this form of modelling.

Oh, it's for scratchbuilt models only, sorry, no kits allowed.

http://www.scalemodelhorsedrawnvehicle.co.uk/

regards greenie