Member postings for Alastair Macpherson

That is all very helpful, and my thanks to all who replied.

Al

I have an old Emco FB-2 vertical mill that suits my needs, but has an annoying problem.

The graduated collar on the quill downfeed just spins loosely with no resistance, so it cannot be set accurately to measure downfeed. I have removed the downfeed lever, which has revealed a large nut that, I assume, must be removed to release the collar.

My query is: Firstly, how do I go about removing the collar and, secondly, how do I provide some tightness in the collar such that it can be set, as can the other graduated collars on the machine.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Al

I also have one of these Naerok machines, and was faced with the same wheel tyre problems putting it out of action. Thanks to your post, I have since used the method suggested by Mark Smith 20 with complete success. I used 12 x 1.5mm neoprene.

Thank you all for your helpful tips; and I have successfully removed the old stud.

I intend replacing the damaged toolpost stud on my Myford Super 7. I have bought a new one from Myford, and am cautiously trying to remove the old one but it is not obvious to me how it is attached, and I don't want to cause further damage.

Myford offer a pin, which presumably goes into a hole provided in the flange of the new stud, and stops the stud from turning, but what is the purpose of the three grub screws that are obstinately refusing to unscrew at present?

Any advice would be very welcome.

Thank you Clive; much obliged.

I am building my first steam locomotive and have reached the wheel-quartering stage. I have read that it is usual for the right-hand crank to lead. My question is; with the RH crank at IDC, should the LH crank be up, down, or doesn't it matter which?

Thank you all for those useful pointers. All I need now is the nerve to tackle the job.

I am faced with drilling some 1mm dia open-ended holes in mild steel and have never drilled such a small diameter before. My drill speed calc chart tells me that I need a rotational speed of 8000 rpm, but my drilling machine max speed is only a little over 4000. How critical is this drilling speed? Any hints or tips on drilling small holes would be valued.

Is there a trick to subscription renewal on line for ME?

I have tried several times without success. All goes well until I go to the payment section, when it alleges that my password is incorrect; which it isn't. When, in desperation, I say that I've forgotten my password and the appropriate box opens, it says that my email address is invalid; which it isn't. My password and email address were both accepted earlier in the procedure.

Please help.

The promised drawing of the S6 rear end is in my album. Both axles are driven, but deleting the second drive should give what you want. I wouldn't be surprised if the non-driven axle had the same casing with the drive opening blanked off.

I have a lubrication chart for the model S which shows the rear axle to be a bogie with both axles sharing a common inverted semi-elliptical spring on each side. I will scan and post it later; have to go out now.

Thank you to everyone for your helpful responses, I've obviously got some serious thinking to do

I have recently aquired one of these and am faced with a similar problem to several others who have asked for advice on this site in that it has a three-phase motor & I have a single-phase supply. Unfortunately, the motor is not dual wound, only 400-440v, and it has been suggested that I opt for a new dual-wound 3-phase motor & an Inverter.

I am, therefore, faced with having to remove the old motor from the machine, and swap any attachments to the new motor. The exploded view in the manual indicates various items in the drive train: a pinion, flywheel, adaptor and worm etc, but it is not obvious how these components interconnect.

My query is: is there anyone out there who is familiar with these machines and who can advise me of any pitfalls that I need to avoid during this operation? as I don't want to damage my new machine.

Also, does anyone know if spare parts are available for the FB2? an internet search has so far proved fruitless.

I have begun to build an Emma Victoria, my first attempt at loco building. I have finished the chassis frame and am about to start on the axle boxes but am unsure what clearances I should allow between the boxes and horns in both directions. Any advice would be welcome.