Member postings for Andrew Tinsley

Hello Michael,

Yes indeed it is a commercial item and quite well made. The only thing I don't like is the pea green wrinkle paint!

Speedy, the one you are showing is very similar. Yours has some overhang at the top (not sure what that is!). Essentially the same with minor differences.

I am not convinced that the table ought to do anything but rotate, I can't see any reason why it should. The staking tool goes through its bearing at the top of the machine and the bearing is eccentric, so the tool can be moved in a radial direction to the table, to line up accurately with the anvil (not sure if it is the correct term!). So being able to slide the table back and forth is not required with this set up!

I am not an horologist, but I know my way around mechanical clocks, having dismantled a couple into their individual parts and rebuilt them rebushing bearings where necessary. I have borrowed a friend's staking too land that one has the table rotating about centres, not the odd behaviour of the recent purchase!

I am sure a dedicated clock builder could answer my queries if there are any out there!? If there are, then maybe they could point me to a decent book on using a staking tool. I have a copy of a 1910 US book, but it really doesn't tell you much. There is another more recent book available to download, but it won't download for me!

There is little point me learning the ins and outs of staking the hard way, if there is a decent book that would get me up to speed. My previous attempts at renewing bushes seemed to work, but I am not sure if it is the approved method!

Thanks,

Andrew.

Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 29/04/2017 16:17:30

Hello,

I have some clock repairs to do and I acquired a staking tool and the necessary tools to go in it.

Now I have a problem. The rotating table has a hole through the centre and a larger recess in the top of the table. The table is held by a shaft which has a larger head at the top. When this is assembled and locked in place via a pointed rod, forced into a similar hole on the shaft via a threaded knurled screw. I find that the table can move in any direction!

Looking at the shaft once more, I found a square groove just below the head. It just so happens that the recess in the top of the table allows the table to move in the shaft recess and hence is not positively located.

I will need to make a thick "washer" to fit into the groove in the shaft and have its OD the same as the counter bore in the table top. The washer will need to be cut in half, in order for it to fit in the shaft groove.

None of this presents any difficulty. My query is why has this been done? The flange on top of the shaft is quite a bit smaller than the counter bore on the table. This all adds to my confusion! Why not make the flange to be the same size as the counter bore and then the table would turn sweetly on the shaft?

The staking tool holder is bored off centre and can rotate to give perfect alignment of the tool with the appropriate table hole.

Is the table meant to flop about without being centred? I really cannot believe that, but why this odd system? I assume the split washer is essential for correct operation of the table and has been lost. Or more likely I am missing something about how a staking tool operates.

Hope someone can explain this,

Andrew.

Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 29/04/2017 13:23:43

Anyone know of a source of magnesium alloy? My old supplier has gone out of business.

Andrew.

Hello again,

I think the recent post on rust removal using a non acid chelating agent is the best bet, but I can't find the thread!

Andrew.

Hi Martin,

I am sure it does attack the steel, but only if you leave it in too long. It seems to go for the rust first. I did put in a large reamer with some rust on it. I left it in too long and the bright steel went a satin colour, but the rust was long gone.

I purchased 5 lts of conc stuff on Ebay. I dilute this down approx. 10 to 1 with very hot water and dump stuff in. It seems that hot is the key. Once it has cooled down a bit, then you can fish stuff out by hand and the acid doesn't affect my skin!

Andrew.

Thanks Martin,

I think this must be my 3rd reply to you. The others have disappeared in cyberspace! Your reply makes it all clear!

Just one query, what would you use to grind the very small sizes of collets, say 1/16", some sort of diamond burr?

Thanks,

Andrew.

I have an almost complete set of Imperial Hardinge collets and quite a few duplicates. If Sod's law dictates that I need one of the "missing" collets. Is it possible to "bore" out one of the smaller duplicates and manufacture the "missing" size?

If so, how would one go about doing this operation? I assume that the Hardinge collets would be quite hard, does this mean some form of grinding? or could one bore and ream? Quite what the edges of the splits would do to reamer, I hate to think!

OK, this is a hypothetical question, which hasn't arisen yet, but I am interested to see if the job is doable. Usually I never have the size I want of anything!

Andrew.

Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 24/04/2017 14:32:04

Thanks for all the information. I believe it was Chris Dooley. The gent from Lincolnshire sells beds on Ebay so I am sure it is not him!

Thanks all,

Andrew.

Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 23/04/2017 20:53:19

A while ago, it was said that a gentleman who dismantles Myford lathes, did not sell on the beds, because of the weight involved.

A friend of mine wants a bed to have reground. His current bed has been damaged and is beyond regrinding.

Can anyone tell me who the gentleman is and a possible contact number? I have searched the threads and cannot find the reference!

Thanks in advance,

Andrew.

I am a touch puzzled by the quick change toolpost. Are we talking about the Dickson type or the Myford boat type holder?

If it is the Dickson type, then I have one each of the Myford Dickson QCTP on an ML7 and ML10. The ones I have were recently manufactured by a guy who used to make them for Myford.

The only snag is that if using a Myford QCTP on the ML10, then you are restricted to using tooling which is 6mm square, unless you mill a bit off the bottom of the tool holders. The ML7 can use 10mm square tools, maybe a touch more.

Andrew.

I use hot diluted phosphoric acid and that works well too.

Andrew.

I am restoring a Delapena hone (as well as other kit). I wanted to Photoshop the Delapena logo, because the transfers on my machine were damaged. So I thought "photoshop". I gave up, because learning the system for a "one off" was just too much. I have redrawn the logos and painted them by hand. I now have to get them put onto a decal or transfer medium.

Andrew.

P.S. I know that the logos do not contribute to any improvement in honing. my philosophy is that if I restore to "as new" standards. Then I tend to keep the machines in first class order. I don't have the urge to do this if the finished product looks "tatty", even if it is functionally perfect! OK so I am a bit of an idiot, but I don't care.

Thank you Hopper,

Those tests have been done with the exception of checking the vertical height of the bar. All done during the levelling process for the bed. I shall go back and check the vertical alignment. Both the lathe bed and saddle have been reground, so these should be fine.

Thanks for an excellent and very clear explanation of how to do the job. I am a trifle annoyed with myself for not working it out myself. I suppose there is always the thought that the job involves some wizardry, but it is straightforward logical thought. Not a strong point with me at the moment due to some pretty strong medication!

Thanks once again,

Andrew.

I am slowly rebuilding my Myford ML7. Next problem is how do ensure that the mandrel axis is aligned to the tailstock centres and also the latter two adjustments parallel with the lathe bed shears?

I ask because I have refitted the lathe with new white metal bearings. I did ask about refitting new bearings but got no advice from forum members. So I am not sure that I have done the correct fitting method.

Andrew.

Hello,

I have had some graphite which was in my materials cupboard for many years. I had reason to use it a year or two back. Yes it was very messy, but machined very well indeed (super finishes). So my experience says go for it! The only snag is that I don't know what grade it was. I was told it was pure graphite whatever that means.

Andrew.

I have used an Ebay supplier for some material. It was a good price and I noted down the EBay shop for further reference.

I was a little surprised to receive an email from the supplier saying that he now had an e commerce site up and running with the aim of supplying small quantities of material for the likes of us, without the dread Ebay charges!

I think that we should support this venture and the e commerce site is to be found at www.jenkinssteelonlinemetals.co.uk. There is currently a 5% discount if you simply type in ebay at the checkout.

They are situated at Cramlington, Northumberland for those that are local.

I have no connection with the company other than as a very satisfied customer.

Regards,

Andrew.

Hello Alan,

It was lowish profile, had a very wide opening and didn't suffer from the usual jaw riding up on tightening. I may have rosy specs, but I was impressed at the time.

Regards,

Andrew.

Hello Derek,

Thanks for the information. It seems that I am doomed in the search for a kit. Maybe someone has the drawings?

A great pity that both the Quorn and the Dore Westbury vice are no longer kitted, both are well worth making. I was eyeing up the Quorn as a long term project and the Dore vice as a do it now job. Looks like I am out of luck.

Thanks,

Andrew.

Hello,

Does anyone know if the kits for the above are still available? I did a Google search and turned up nothing on suppliers. Maybe there is a machine drawing for them?

I once had the use of one of these vices and found it to be remarkably good.

Regards,

Andrew.

Thanks Bill,

That worked!

Regards,

Andrew.