Member postings for Andrew Tinsley

I was altering the electronic timer on my central heating. There was a huge flash and bank and the timer disintegrated around my finger!. Bits flew everywhere! There had been a lightning strike about 20 yards from my house. Very scarey.

Andrew.

I too would like a scan of the papers if you have the time.

Thanks,

Andrew.

You probably won't get much from a dealer. Probably best to sell privately. Thinking aloud, Tee publishing used to hold large stocks of old magazines including ME. Maybe if they still trade in old magazines, they might offer a decent price?

Andrew.

Thanks for the tip on the 55 degree Whitworth form. I gave up looking on the assumption that carbide tips and Whitworth were not compatible!!!!!!!

Andrew,

Why remove the filler if it is well stuck on? Just use more filler to make up any dents and "Bring forward" as Professor Chaddock said.

Andrew.

P.S. Another way of saying "If it isn't bust, don't fix it".

I attended today's steam up. Came away very impressed by the friendliness of the members and I enjoyed the locos too! The only downside was that the catering ladies ran out of Bacon Butties when it came to my turn!!

Seriously, it was very good indeed!

Andrew.

My young grandchildren are all fascinated by machining and the older two are now getting very good at doing lathe work. They are already eyeing up my renovated round bed Drummond, with a view to parting it from Grandfather!

Andrew.

Having worked on full size British and continental locos. All I can say is thank goodness for hanging everything out!

Andre.

In the wilds of France, you can't call out the AA. Try getting breakdown cover for a near 40 year car used for continental travel! Hence a comprehensive toolkit and loads of spares. French Garages don't use AF either.

Andrew.

My B has Rostyles, I would not touch wire wheels, I have enough trouble with most things and I could well do without wires!

I think that those who recommend 3/8" sockets are optimistic. Some of the stubborn nuts I have encountered need at least !/2" drives if not 3/4"!

Andrew.

I just go along to my local University library and get a readers card. You can browse but can't take stuff home. Most University libraries are usually very helpful in this respect.

Andrew.

Thank you for all the suggestions! My B is a late model and everything is AF, except for the carb set up which uses BA.

I am a bit leary of some of the combined sets, I have broken a few sockets in my time and would like some half decent ones.. I have broken undoing nuts rather than tightening them up. I prefer a box set up, because you can see exactly where everything is. Getting a socket out of a bag or off a bar arrangement isn't my cup of tea when doing any emergency repairs at the roadside, especially when it is freezing cold or wet!

Thanks everyone for your suggestions,

Andrew.

Hello JC,

I have sent you a PM,

Regards,

Andrew.

Just been looking for my comprehensive AF half inch drive socket set. It seems to have disappeared, lent out or workshop gremlins!

I want this to go in the boot of my newly restored MGB, for any on the road repairs (I always carry a comprehensive kit of spares!)

Looking on Epay, there are no end of combined Metric and AF sets for reasonable money, but I want a set of AF only, 3/8" to 1"sizes plus the usual 1/2" drivers. The costs seem to run from £100 to £350!!!! Having picked myself up. I decided to ask on the forum. I don't need top class stuff, just a middle of the road set would do.

Anyone know where I can get such a thing at less than £100? I don't want the combined metric and AF sets due to the smaller size of the box!

Andrew.

I have had the same experience. Emailed via the forum for two "for sale items" and not a peep in reply. Sellers are usually very quick to reply, so not sure if something is wrong on the forum email system,

Unless you have plenty of experience with very fine fits, I would strongly recommend that you start with a much larger capacity engine. Making stuff down to the fine limits needed for very small engines in the .1 to .2 cc range is NOT simple. Doable, yes, but certainly NOT for a first IC project.

Over tightening the ball joint on the smallest TD (I gave too heavy a blow on the resetting tool) turned a clapped out engine into a good runner. That demonstrates the fine limits required. Now it was only a tap with a 2 oz hammer that caused this change. I most certainly didn't whack it, but more force than I usually use. This expanded the piston very slightly and caused the transformation!

Do yourself a favour and build something from 1 cc upwards as a first project. If you have never built an IC engine before, trying to replicate the smallest Coxs is a mugs game. You are most unlikely to get a good runner. You would have to use a Cox glowhead too. Small diesel engines need fits every bit as good as Cox engines. A 5 cc Sparey diesel is a good starting point for getting into IC engines.

Andrew.

The use of three phase in an office would go someway to reducing 100Hz flicker. Good point Frances! However I think the flicker most if not all people see with choke fed fluorescents is NOT 100Hz, but flicker due to near end of life effects.

Andrew.

Hello Neil,

Now I am really confused! As soon as current flows (electrons one way and ions the other!). The lamp emits light from end to end. The idea that one end of the tube is brighter than the other is incorrect. So I don't think that this is Michael's point (?). I understood him to infer that the 100Hz flicker would be out of phase at adjacent ends of tubes in a row. Thus cancelling out the 100Hz flicker. The adjacent ends of the tubes are in fact in phase with each other so I cannot understand how this would reduce the 100Hz flicker.

As I said before, I could well be missing the point.

Andrew.

Thanks for that Michael,

You may well have something. But I am still very dubious. The 100Hz phases for two lamps are always in phase, they have to be because the same 50Hz voltage is driving both of them, For what you are claiming, the voltage needs to be 90 degrees out of phase, between the two lamps.

Maybe I am missing something? I am not trying to cause dissension, just curious. There is too much arguing on forums, but not too bad here!

Andrew.

Hello Michael,

I can't see what point you are trying to make. The distribution of fluorescent lights in offices are indeed as you describe. This is simply to even out illumination and attempt to produce shadow free lighting. It has nothing to do with flicker. Are you saying that such a layout minimises any subliminal effects?

I would be interested in further information if you are claiming that it reduces subliminal effects. I am always willing to learn. I have never come across such information, but that only means I have probably missed it.

Andrew.