Here is a list of all the postings Andrew Tinsley has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: Drive Belts for an ML10? |
31/07/2023 21:53:59 |
Hello Nick, Yes I did try Myford. At £12.50 each, or £25 for the two belts, I decided that it was just a little too expensive! I can get the A25 belt from a reputable supplier for as little as £2.10, plus VAT. Regards, Andrew. Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 31/07/2023 21:54:32 |
31/07/2023 21:10:53 |
I need to change the speed change belt on an ML10 and while I am at it, I may as well change the countershaft pulley too. These items are 66 and 166 on the Myford drawings, that come with the handbook. The 166 countershaft pully is an A25 code V, U or W. The A25 bit is easy enough, being a 25" A section belt, what code V, U or W means, is baffling. The Z810 belt (item 66) which is in sore need of changing doesn't respond to my googling. Can anyone tell me what or where I should be looking? Thanks, Andrew. |
Thread: Strangest Things |
27/07/2023 11:44:32 |
The only nutters are the people that disparage the scientific backing of climate change. Andrew. Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 27/07/2023 11:45:01 |
Thread: Sheet Metalwork |
27/07/2023 11:41:00 |
They are OK within their operating range. Do not expect too much for thicker metal. Andrew. |
Thread: Fretwork spade drills. |
22/07/2023 17:16:44 |
Thanks for the heads up Trevor, it would cost a fair bit to stock up at those prices. I seem to remember that the fretwork spade drills or something similar was used in watchmaking, these were known as forrets(?. seems that they are defunct now. My last purchase of fretwork spade drills was 40 years ago. I got them from a local ironmongers (now long since gone). They were probably "old stock" even then. Looks like I will make some, as it doesn't look too difficult. I have found that the archimedian drill and the spade drills were very easy to use, much better than other options at the time. The pre war Herbert high speed drill that i restored 18 months ago, may well be a better bet now. Andrew. |
21/07/2023 20:01:47 |
Made up a replacement nose piece for my old archimedian drill this afternoon and then looked for some fretwork spade drills that I have. The stache was down to a couple of drills, better get some on order. Spent time looking on the web without any joy, are they still made? The ones I have are 2mm shank and varying spade diameters. Are they really defunct or is my google foo not up to finding them? Maybe they have another name which I am unaware of? I seem to remember clockmakers using something similar. Regards, Andrew. |
Thread: Odd thread size. |
21/07/2023 10:49:26 |
Please ignore my comments on the cap being like an eclipse pin chuck version! It is from another drill that I have. So no idea what the original look s like. Noel , I already have taps for the M8 Metric fine thread needed, but thanks for the info. As the drill was at least 70 years old, I never dreamed that it would be a metric thread. Didn't think of the possibility of European manufacture! Thanks again, Andrew. |
20/07/2023 21:40:17 |
Diogenes, That is amazing! A very careful scan of the top handle, using a loupe reveals the letters Pe..... . So it seems that Clive's suggestion of M8 fine, with a pitch of 1 mm is correct. The drill came in a set of children's woodworking tools, which included a saw and a mallet, plus some other items which I can't now recall. I still have the saw. The only modifications are the top handle, which is mushroom shaped on my version and the pin chuck which has been simplified, my version is knurled and is like a small version of an Eclipse pin chuck. I shall buy the modern version just for old times sake. Thanks everyone for the journey down memory lane! Andrew. |
20/07/2023 21:40:17 |
Diogenes, That is amazing! A very careful scan of the top handle, using a loupe reveals the letters Pe..... . So it seems that Clive's suggestion of M8 fine, with a pitch of 1 mm is correct. The drill came in a set of children's woodworking tools, which included a saw and a mallet, plus some other items which I can't now recall. I still have the saw. The only modifications are the top handle, which is mushroom shaped on my version and the pin chuck which has been simplified, my version is knurled and is like a small version of an Eclipse pin chuck. I shall buy the modern version just for old times sake. Thanks everyone for the journey down memory lane! Andrew. |
19/07/2023 12:44:14 |
I have an archimedean drill whic Ii was given on my 7th birthday along with other tools (Thanks Dad for getting me interested in making things!), so it is now 70 years old. It has a type of brass pin chuck and the end cone is missing. The thread is 24tpi and the diameter at the top (beyond the 4 saw cuts is 0.3150" So nearest standard O/D would be 5 /16". A bit dodgy as the diameter is oversize for 5/16". So what is the thread? As the pin chuck is brass , I thought Brass thread, but they have a standard tpi of 26. Difficult to tell, but it looks as though it is a 55 degree thread, but could be wrong unless I dig out my Shadowgraph. So what thread is it? I would like to make a new end cap and get it back to working order, but I am stumped. Andrew. |
Thread: Shrink fits for the model engineers workshop? |
18/07/2023 21:36:26 |
Thanks everyone, Malcolm, I have had the same experience with a Jacobs chuck. I think, on reflection, that brazing would be unlikely to work and I suspect a decent interference fit would be needed for the outer sleeve to do the job. Andrew. |
Thread: 14.5mm end mill equivalent |
18/07/2023 14:42:20 |
Margaret, You will need a slot drill if you want to plunge cut a hole, They have two cutting faces. You can get a cutter with three cutting edges that can also do a plunge cut. You are better off with a slot drill to cut a slot as it will cut to size, An end mill will cut oversize. Andrew. Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 18/07/2023 14:42:54 |
Thread: Shrink fits for the model engineers workshop? |
17/07/2023 20:28:43 |
There seems to be quite a lot of information on the web for shrink fits. However very little on the temperature differences between the two parts. If I want to fit a sleeve to my Jacobs chuck (which had a split outer sleeve) what difference in diameters would I need (thous per inch)? OK, first one has to define the lowest temperature for the split sleeve and how hot can ! get the new sleeve? In the days before retirement I would have dunked the split outer sleeve in liquid nitrogen and job done. I am now limited to a domestic freezer and gas stove (or even a propane torch!). so how many thou per inch of diameter should I allow? Plenty of info on the net, but I suspect the temperature differential is somewhat greater than I can manage! I can afford to louse up the operation, as the chuck now has an intact donor outer sleeve. But the split sleeve is sitting on the bench and seems to be challenging me to experiment! If anyone has done this type of job within the limited temperature differential that is available to us. I would love to hear what thous per inch was used in coming to the negative size difference for the two components. Andrew. |
Thread: Sifbronze or silver solder? |
12/07/2023 16:10:44 |
The use of a jubilee clip or better still a sleeve sounds a much better idea. I am sure using Sifbronze on the sleeve (I do have Siff bronze flux) may well alter the hardness of the sleeve or distort it, but it really is an academic exercise and if I ruin the sleeve then nothing is lost! A word about why the sleeve cracked. I needed to get the 1 MT taper out of the chuck and replace it with a 2MT taper. I followed Tubal Cain's instructions, these are to be found in his book on Drills and tapping. He recommends drilling and taping the inside of the chuck and using a bolt to force out the recalcitrant taper. He also goes on to explain how to dismantle a Jacobs chuck. As mine was a bit notchy in action I decided to take it apart with a view to cleaning and lubricating it. Following his words and music, I finished up with a cracked sleeve !!! So if anyone else follows Tom Walshaw's advice, beware you could finish up with a cracked sleeve! He didn't mention this possibility! Thanks everyone! Andrew. |
12/07/2023 13:18:10 |
Hello Baz Quite correct, I do NOT want silver solder in the crack! I want to make a fillet over the crack in the corner of the castellation, where the crack is. If you reread my post I am bothered that putting a few thou on the diameter of the sleeve (by putting braze in the crack) will make the sleeve diameter too large and it won't be able to finally tighten. When trying to tighten the chuck with the split, you could barely see the crack opening , so only a very few thou increase in sleeve dimension renders the chuck useless. So to be clear. I do NOT want braze in the crack! Andrew. |
12/07/2023 12:17:30 |
I had a Jacobs chuck which had the outer sleeve cracked from top to bottom . Hence it would not fully tighten. I was lucky enough to be given a replacement from another damaged chuck. So all is now fine. As a matter of interest, In wondered if the split outer sleeve could be repaired. I don't want to braze into the gap, as this may well be enough increase in the sleeve diameter to render the sleeve useless. When you try to finally tighten the chuck, I could barely see the gap open. The outer sleeve is castellated and the crack is in one corner of a castellation. I propose to clamp the sleeve tightly to eliminate the gap and to braze a fillet over the offending crack. My query is Sifbronze or silver solder for the fillet? I suspect a sifbronze fillet would be stronger, but either may well be a strong enough repair. I am just curious to see if the job can be done as I have already replaced the cracked sleeve . Regards, Andrew. |
Thread: Hearing aids - NHS or private? |
06/07/2023 10:17:01 |
Friend of mine went private and finished up with an aid that was exactly the same as mine with the exception that his was rechargeable and my aids use throw away batteries. The difference in cost about £1400. In my opinion people that go private are being ripped off. Andrew. |
Thread: Wave Washer in Myford Resettable Dial Article, MEW 328 |
05/07/2023 17:23:08 |
The Chinese wave washers have arrived and they are dead ringers for the much more expensive Caleb version. The only difference that I can see are the Chinese ones are stainless and the Caleb ones appear to be spring steel. They both have the same "stiffness" when bent.. Can't be bad for a price of £2.99 for twenty. Delivery was much quicker than expected. Don't forget the pack of 10, 32mm internal circlips for £4.13, again from Ebay. Andrew. Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 05/07/2023 17:23:48 |
Thread: Setting up a fixed steady. |
27/06/2023 21:38:05 |
Thank you both, DC31\,k I don't have a tailstock 3 jaw chuck, so that one is out. I really don't fancy trying to use a centre drill in a cordless drill. I am sure to break it! I was toying with the third suggestion of using the drill press with the table swung out of the way, would need suitable vice to hold it but should have one that will do the job. Now the use of a wooden stub the same diameter as the bar sounds better. Your last suggestion is excellent and blindingly obvious, if I had thought of it, which I didn't! Andrew , thanks, the same as DC31k's last suggestion. Couldn't be simpler. Sometimes I can't see the wood for the trees and this is one such occasion. Thank you both again, Andrew. |
27/06/2023 21:38:05 |
Thank you both, DC31\,k I don't have a tailstock 3 jaw chuck, so that one is out. I really don't fancy trying to use a centre drill in a cordless drill. I am sure to break it! I was toying with the third suggestion of using the drill press with the table swung out of the way, would need suitable vice to hold it but should have one that will do the job. Now the use of a wooden stub the same diameter as the bar sounds better. Your last suggestion is excellent and blindingly obvious, if I had thought of it, which I didn't! Andrew , thanks, the same as DC31k's last suggestion. Couldn't be simpler. Sometimes I can't see the wood for the trees and this is one such occasion. Thank you both again, Andrew. |
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