Member postings for Andrew Tinsley

It could be the start capacitor that has gone faulty or the run switch is stuck in the run position and hence the motor is struggling to start.

Unless you have a capacitance meter and can check the start capacitor, I would simply change it out for a new one. If that doesn't cure it take the end plate off the motor and check the centrifugal switch isn't stuck.

If you are tight fisted, like me, check the switch first, you might save the cost of a start capacitor, at the expense of some disassembly work!

Andrew.

As far as I know, Chester are the only people in the UK to still offer the 920. Usually they have no spares stock and need to order from China. Prices are reasonable but the postal costs are very steep. The quality of the spares isn't brilliant in my limited experience.

Grizzly in the US are usually much better on stock and prices, but the cost of postage and customs  to the UK is even worse than the Chester quoted prices from China. The quality is not brilliant either.

Much better to take the bull by the horns and re engineer the cross slide drive. If you are not up to it, then find someone that can do the awkward bits for you, otherwise you will just have to put up with the backlash as it is, bodging the nut isn't a good solution. It would appear that someone has already done the bodge and the nut is now even more worn.

Andrew

Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 14/10/2021 21:34:30

Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 14/10/2021 21:46:02

Hello Noel,

I am in Rutland.

Andrew.

Just had a delivery which had taken just 24 hours to get here. Amazing service. People are quick to moan when things go wrong, but don't often praise when it is due.

Andrew.

The "leadscrew" for want of a better word and the captive nut are really a bit undersized. Most people would replace with a larger diameter cross slide screw and a new machined nut, in say bronze. Doing this mod also allows you to increase the range of the cross slide.

Look on line for "Tricking out the 920 lathe". This will give the details as will some other sites (920 lathe forum for one). The trick of partially sawing through the nut and then using grub screws to enlarge the gap, is at best a bodge and it won't be long before you are back to square one, with lots of backlash.

Andrew.

Hello Chris,

I am firmly convinced that SP cutters have legs. Are the diamond coated cutters specifically for valve seats ? Sounds a good idea providing the cutters are not an arm and leg.

Andrew.

Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 14/10/2021 13:58:09

It is very unlikely that a modern motor does not have the choice of star or delta connection. These motors are designed to run very hot!

It is older motors that are usually wound in delta only and these are the ones that need the star point digging out! I have found that, without exception, these motors have soldered connections and judging by my temperature controlled soldering iron, these joints are made with standard 60/40 solder. The reason being that the older motors are designed to run much cooler than modern ones.

I always use 60/40 solder to remake the joints on these motors and have never had a problem in many years of operation.

For insulation I use heat shrink tubing followed by glass fibre sleeving over the heat shrink. Retie the windings and then use air drying varnish to finish off.

Andrew

My Sykes Pickavant cutters has gone walk about. So I need to buy another set. There seems to be a lot of choice, which manufacturer would people advise?

Thanks,

Andrew.

Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 14/10/2021 13:54:16

LED's are very heat sensitive an increase of 5 degrees centigrade can shorten life drastically., I was responsible for designing and manufacturing LED machine vision units. These had closely spaced LEDs and the diminution in lifetime was horrendous. It needed a total redesign to get acceptable lifetime.

Andrew.

Fascinating find. Thank you Michael.

Andrew.

It would be interesting to know how the "Pirates" manage to evade the quarantine that new members have to go through. There must have been half a dozen such Ads in the last month or so.

Andrew.

Sorry Tony,

I should have said harden and temper, old age creeping in! I emphasised the fire hazard because I once had a bucket of oil catch fire. I was doing it as per book too ............ so it can happen and it was quite frightening.

Duncan is spot on, Tubal Cain's book on hardening and tempering is a gem. Gives you the essentials without overloading the theory.

Andrew.

I use a gas fired furnace to anneal gauge plate or silver steel. I let it soak at 750 centigrade and quench in brine. It is then annealed at the appropriate temperature for its use.

I NEVER quench in oil because it can catch fire. Apart from that it doesn't give the best hardness as you have found. Brine is the easiest quenching agent to use for maximum hardness.

Andrew.

You were asking about Proxxon mills a month or so ago. I said at the time that they were overpriced and poor quality. You seem to have ignored that and went ahead and purchased a Proxxon mill. Your comment was, I think "poor quality".

You now seem to want to compound your error and buy yet another Proxxon mill This time over 20 years old and goodness knows in what condition. Why bother asking on the forum, if you ignore the advice proffered?

Andrew.

Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 28/09/2021 11:13:10

Thanks everyone for your input, as I suspected, a radiation based pyrometer is not a realistic option as it is going to be very expensive.

I will stick with thermocouples.

Andrew.

I use a gas fired kiln for annealing and tempering steel. I currently use a themocouple for measuring temperature.

I would like to try a pyrometer for temperature measurement, There appears to be a plethora of cheapish pyrometers on the market (although most use a fixed emissivity) right up to hugely expensive professional gear.

Has anyone any experience or recommendations?

Andrew.

Whatever you finish up with, buy a cheapie off EBay. They are usually a bright yellow and cost around £7. Use this for any dirty jobs. I have two of these plus some top of the range multimeters. I often finish up using the cheapie! They are pretty accurate and no great loss if you happen to back the car over it! Several of my friends have them at my recommendation. All have proved trouble free.

Andrew.

Hello Gary,

A4, Dominiom of Canada is still at the Canadian Railway Museum in Quebec. Not quite so far to travel! There is talk of repatriating the loco back to the UK,, but that won't happen quickly, if at all.

Andrew.

A very good reason for using a gasless welder is if you are having to weld outside, wind/ draughts play havoc with a gas Mig.

Sure a gasless Mig gives a poorer weld quality than a gas Mig. BUT if you have to work outside, then give me a gasless Mig anytime. A gas Mig doesn't cut the mustard in those circumstances.

Andrew.

This is Jason Posting.

Looks like it may be something your end.

I just opened your old account and was able to change the password which required me to enter the existing which it excepted (one PM'd this morning)

I then logged out and tried to login using your e-mail and the password I had just updated to and go in no problem.

I'll PM you what the current password is. Suggest you try from another device if possible.

Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 01/09/2021 10:56:25