Member postings for Andrew Tinsley

Don't bother with WD 40. It isn't a penetrating fluid. Use Plus Gas or similar if you want it to penetrate!

Andrew.

I always use phosphoric acid from E bay, works well on badly rusted stuff, if heated. Despite Dave's inability to select the stuff on Ebay, most folk will find the 30 to 50% phosphoric acid without much trouble. It is a lot cheaper than the commercial de-rusting agents that are phosphoric acid based that Dave seems to recommend.

For metal that is not rusted too much, washing soda and a battery charger works wonders.

Andrew.

Well I use Everbuild cyano. Mine will last for years when opened, because I keep it in a refrigerator. I suggest that SOD does the same and tell us if his cyano then lasts.

I usually only have one bottle open at a time and put a date on it when opened. A few months ago I came upon a "lost " bottle in the fridge with January 2018 on it. Still worked like a charm.

A friend of mine is an industrial chemist who once ran a cyano manufacturing plant in the UK. He confirmed my findings "put the top back on the bottle and stick it in the fridge" was his comment., It doesn't last for ever, but you can easily tell when it goes off, because it will take a good bit longer than normal to grab.

His final comment was that people don't read the instructions and that is the usual failure mode.

Andrew.

ck it in the fri

Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 19/02/2022 15:26:38

I had a keysafe fitted, never had any problems.

Andrew.

I have not tried Powerbond, but I can heartily endorse Arc Euros Bond Lock products.

I purchased some Loctite threadlock off Ebay. I didn't look closely enough at the photo and finished up with a Chinese fake instead. Nothing to lose, so I tried it out. It appears to be every bit as good as the genuine product, much to my amazement.

Andrew.

There are a good number of these for sale on Ebay and elsewhere. They sound to be a good idea for machines that need to be moved on occasion. Jack down onto the castors, move the machine and then jack up again. Sets of 4 seem to be going for £40 for 500 Kg / 1000 Kg machines.

Has anyone tried them? Are they any good? Or are they too good to be true? I would prefer not to have to find out the hard way!

Andrew.

Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 13/02/2022 18:00:46

I seem to have collected a few DTI s ranging from a Verdict to a Silverline cheapo. Most of them have the traditional dovetail fixing system. However there are two which have a threaded stub for mounting, maybe a little over a 1/4" in diameter. Does anyone know what the thread is?

Normally I would measure the diameter of the stub and get a thread gauge on the threads. I have an eye problem (hopefully temporary!) that prevents me from doing the necessary measurements. I think that the thread is standard for many DTIs. Can anyone tell me what it is and at least I can order a tap (if I have not got one) for when the eyes improve!

Thanks,

Andrew.

I was looking through the Arc website last night and saw a good few concertina covers for Sieg mills. I have not got a clue if they are any good or even if they fit your mill, but maybe worth you having a browse.

Andrew..

The Eschenbach magnifiers are available from ZORO at a better price than Cromwell.

Andrew.

I got my drill table clamps off Ebay/. were sub £9 each and exactly the same quality as the Axminster and Machine Mart clamps.

Andrew.

I have been testing the printed spindle locks. This morning I substituted my 3 jaw for a 4 jaw on the ML10. I noticed that the teeth on the print now didn't fit very well. The first 8 teeth fitted and then the rest were obviously at a wider tooth spacing.

When I first started to use the wrench, the fit of the teeth was perfect. So either the print is relaxing and allowing the arc of the wrench to increase in diameter OR my hard usage has caused the problem.

It still works like a dream even with only 8 teeth engaged.

Andrew.

Looking at my workshop, I wonder where you will put all the small tools and bits and pieces. I find they take up more space than machine tools.

Still an excellent job on the layout. I bet it doesn't stay as neat once you start work! I seem to take as much time tidying up and putting things back as I do constructive work!!

Andrew.

Hello,

I have just posted my interim findings on the ML7 spindle lock on the other topic entitled "ML7 Spindle lock". Results so far are astonishingly good, with the print standing up to some serious force, without any signs of breaking.

Andrew

I have been testing the printed ML7 spindle lock, kindly supplied to me from a forum member, and so far it has been amazingly good. It removes any chuck or face plate from my ML7 with ease. I also have an ML10 (same bull wheel) which is a swine when it comes to chuck removal (Can't figure out why). It needed a large lever in the chuck jaws (at right angles to the lathe axis), the printed spindle lock coped with ease.

I then did the unthinkable, put a chuck on the mandrel nose using only 2 or 3 turns and then turning on the motor. Those of you that may have done this, will know that it is virtually impossible to get the chuck off again. An even larger leaver (about 3 feet long!) and the printed lock. One good heave, loosened the chuck with no problems.

I shall continue to abuse the printed lock and see if I can destroy it overtime. Somehow I don't think I will manage to do so.

Andrew.

You can pay in bank cheques at the nearest Post Office too.

Andrew.

Volvo have never been the same since the Chinese takeover.

Andrew.

+1 for an engine crane. Mine came for less than £100 brand new, doubt you could make one for that, unless you have a very large scrap bin.

Andrew.

I will try something like a washer to reduce the flame area.

Thanks,

Andrew.

Hello Bill,

Thanks for the offer, but I do have the M&W info filed away. I was working from memory, too idle to get up and check!

Do you know if there is anything above the wadding? Maybe a gauze or something to retain the string / wadding that fills my particular version. Just curious.

When I use mine, I find the flame covers the whole tube diameter, which seems a bit wasteful??

Thanks again,

Andrew.

I have and use one of the Moore and Wright mouth blowtorches like the one in the above thread. I have often wondered if there should be a gauze or some sort of wick holder that is placed on top of the wadding. Mine works fine without, but I would be interested to know if the item is incomplete.

Andrew.

PS I think the M&W code is a 606.