Member postings for sparky mike

The instructions often give extra tips/uses for machines that were not so obvious, which is why I would like to see them. Be nice to know as well if anywhere new spare wheels could be bought.

Mike.

I never use the extra handle on mine, but just use it in the bench vice using the foot provided for that purpose.. There is an adjustment on the bottom wheel which brings it nearer or further away from top wheel. This is done by a pin which locates in two holes on some of these tools and three in others.You have to remove the wheel in order to do this.It works on a cam principle. They were produced from 1947 until the mid 60's I understand.

I am looking for the instructions for a record no. 500 sheet metal cutter.

If anyone could post a copy I would be grateful.

It had the remains of grease in it ,which I replaced.

It is stiff without the chuck jaws fitted.. There is a thrust washer that sits next to the scroll. I did wonder if that was a fraction too thick, but decided to leave that alone until I gather more info.

Mike

Panic over. I tapped the chuck gently with a hide mallet, after removing the two sunken screws and the back end of the chuck came off. There is a split dead centre of the chuck key square hole rotators.

Cleaned it all out , and there was a lot of bits of brass etc. in various places, but after putting back together it is still a bit on the stiff side. ??

Mike.

I need to take my Boxford three jaw Taylor (not Clark!! ) chuck to bits as it is getting stiff to opeate. There are two socket head screws in the rear. What do they do ?

I have removed jaws. Does the centre push out or screw out to the rear so that the scroll can be removed ?

Mike.

Edited By sparky mike on 08/10/2021 13:19:01

See above picture. This is for pressing in frets when making guitars, but any shape jaws could be made and fitted to same idea. I have a Facom grip that is similar to above grips. Frets have to be pressed in with even pressure along the length, which the above will do very well, with whatever reasonable pressure you want..

Mike.

Edited By sparky mike on 21/08/2021 17:38:20

Forgive me if this tip has been aired, but what about a mole grip style grip with one jaw removed and replaced with one that pivots in the middle, so that an even pressure could be obtained along its length.

Mike.

Hi Bill, exactly what I have found !!

The pointer looks like it is slightly off set and I would think it should be straight. Howvever, I don't intend to straighten it as it may well then break.. I found that the weight of the beam when the indicator was upright, was too great for the return/hair spring and after a bit of trial and error, putting the end of the beam in different positions on the worm , it now works well. I replaced the beam spring by looping a piece of cottom thread on it and then lifting it just enough to fit it into the hole on the beam. I had removed the complete beam which in my case needed a 4mm spanner on the lock nut. The beam would not have to be removed if you wanted to just move beam to new position on the worm, but the screw would need to be loosened a few turns. You can only access the screw by moving the spring clip to one side ,that holds the ball of the pointer in place.

It only cost me £10.00 at a boot sale at which I also bought a set of USA micrometers (Tool company Auburn) for similar price, and also includes in the case various adaptors. There is one short brass adaptor but this may have been home made or may have nothing to do with it. Thanks for all replies.

Mike.

Now this has got me stumped. Found out this morning that the needle retracts fine when verdict is on its side (either side) or upside down ,but not when dial is at the top. ???

Mike.

Based on the well worn theory, some human put it together in the first place (not always correct in these automated days !! ),it should be possible to take it to pieces. It is composed of two units, the base unit, which presents no problems and the dial /stem unit, which looks like it is pressed into the base/stem. I wonder if the only way in is to remove glass /needle and dial to get to the hair spring. I did wonder if the ball end was too tight but a drop of oil proved that not the case.

Mike.

t the moment there does not seem to be any way to get into the workings of the dial.

I have removed side plate with its minute screw, but all looks fine in there. Re. the early type, my father used to make parts for these in a sub contract role at Astralux in Brightlingsea Essex. Somewhere I have the blueprint drawing of one . I will have to dig it out and post it on here.

Mike.

Hi I have a Verdict dial indicator and I believe the hair sprig has broken or become detatched. Anyone had experience taking these apart ? Where can you get new hairsprings from ?

Mike.

It seems to work like the images on some credit cards. There is another name for it but can't remember it.

One for sale on UK Ebay right now but none on the US Ebay, which is the place where I thought they would be found. With the US Pat. number it should be possible to look that up and it will describe the technique in detail I would think.

Mike.

I just found a name on the rear, so small I had missed it.

It is made by Varivue. MFG USA. Pat.NO. 2.815.310 .... also Pat no.2.399.938 (the 3 might be 2 or another number. A job to read.)

Mike.

Edited By sparky mike on 23/06/2021 08:50:06

I found a 12" plastic holograph rule in my late father's wooden tool chest.

Is it still possible to buy these and if so , where from ?

Seems like a good idea to me. You just tilt the rule to get either metric of imperial figures.

What age would this be from, 70's ?

Mike.

The table flexes a bit if you put a load on it, but a screw jack in the right place under the table would prevent that occuring.

Mike.

Anyone know about the Perform brand of pedestal drills etc. ?

Were they part of Axminster ?

Mike.