Member postings for FMES

Why do you need to have the offset angle?I could understand it if you were trying to get a depth or vertical displacement.

Personally I use one of these **LINK** which fits in a collet or chuck, could be used rotating or not.

I think you'll probably find that depletion of the Ozone layer was caused by use of CFCs, not Carbon Dioxide.

That and the space shuttle blowing great holes through it.

Surely though, that is only releasing the stored Carbon Dioxide into the atmosphere that was once already there?

Millions of years ago Carbon Dioxide levels in the atmosphere were far higher than they are today, the planet was covered with vast forests of ferns and trees and lush vegetation.

For millions of years animals roamed the surface of the planet so we can assume that the CO2 levels had little if any detrimental effect on them.

What people tend to forget is that geologically speaking we are still emerging from a Ice age, as defined by the fact that there is still ice on the planet other than at the poles, so the planet is getting warmer whether we like it or not, and it is agreed that emitting the CO2 back into the atmosphere will accelerate that effect.

As you can see from the attached graph **LINK** global CO2 levels do NOT have a direct effect on global temperatures, rather CO2 levels have been dropping on average for the last 4 billion odd years as volcanic activity slowly subsided, but temperature has varied over the same period only starting to drop in the last 35 million years. (notably after the ELE 65 MYA.)

So, considering that the majority of the CO2 has been trapped over many millions of years, and that we are now told that the current use of fossil fuels will only a few more tens of years, why haven't the original levels of global CO2 been realised?

Methinks that the only reason that the powers that be want us to emit less CO2 by use of fossil fuels is that they haven't yet developed a suitable low priced alternative and need the current fuels to last as long as possible.

John, Potassium and Manganese were the main additives to petrol due to the removal of tetraethyl Lead.

TEL was added to allow higher compression engines and to prevent exhaust valve and seat recession in cast iron heads / valve seats.

Japan has never used leaded fuels as all their engines had hardened valve seats in alloy heads, a trait that has now been incorporated in all engines built these days.

Of course you are being conned.

All this rubbish about 'low energy' this and that is literally rubbish.

Yes, a 60watt light bulb emits a fair proportion of its energy as heat, and the removal of the heat is all you are saving with the new lamps.

So if you remove all of the old incandescent lamps and substitute them for the new types you will have to supplement the removed heat from another source i'e your heating system, if you wish to retain your current comfort levels.

You don't get anything for nothing

Never really seen the point in being able to calculate the square root of a jar of pickles if you can't get the lid off.

I use Avast - no problems here

**LINK**

I've never used JB Weld, but probably a similar item is Doublebond two part aluminium epoxy **LINK**

Mainly used in the aero industry, and I have successfully used it to repair many cast iron cracks (Lister L type water jacket, Mercruiser exhaust water jacket, Landrover cylinder block damaged by failed head gasket blow-by to name a few).

It's not cheap, approx £60 a kit but lasts for ages, it also thins after mixing and will run into a crack if gentle heat is applied to the cracked part before application of the resin.

It takes about 24hours to fully set and can then be drilled, filed and even thread tapped.

Not me, but I do still gap spark plugs with my 25 thou thumbnail

These are very good **LINK**

Interestingly enough I have to teach new apprentices Imperial measurement as the majority of Nuclear power stations were built to this standard.

Strange thing is that they (the apprentices) mostly convert very easily as they state Imperial is more divisible than metric.

I would offer that unless taking water from a separate tender that water in the saddle tank gets too hot for an injector.

Apologies to all, I won't bother in future.

Edited By JasonB on 31/12/2013 16:15:24

Edited By JasonB on 31/12/2013 16:16:32

Post deleted at request of member by JasonB

Edited By JasonB on 31/12/2013 16:17:27

Hello,

This might help with the tapping sizes **LINK**

As Graham says, the resultant 0.5mm thickness between the two threads will leave a very weak joint, and you run a very big chance of running offline so drilling the tapping hole is going to be a bit of a challenge on its own.

I would suggest making a blind holed jig to hold in the lathe chuck and tapped to the 6mm size and screw your brass rod into this (lock it with a nut) then drill the M4 tapping size (3.5mm) and then using the tailstock chuck gently hold the tap to get it started square.

Turn the main chuck by hand while feeding the tap in, and remember to reverse as per the norm when hand tapping.

When the tap is well started, remove the tailstock chuck and fit a tap wrench and continue until the tap bottoms or remove before if swarf builds up.

Repeat for second and plug taps.

Lofty

Nice one Bill, I was just about to put a copy up on the noticeboard, but I've put it down somewhere ! )

Yes, I freely admit it, I DO sit in an armchair when I'm reading the forum posts.

Terribly decadent