Member postings for Boiler Bri

Nice one for owning up 👍👍👍

I only put a small amount of oil on and spread it around.

Been doing it a long time. Problem has only started recently

Bri

Thank you for the replies. Tapers are all in good condition and i always lubricate them at change

The adaptors will be fine

Cheers

Brian

I have a wm18 milling machine. Recently the tooling has become difficult to free from the morse taper. It used to take a slight tap with a hammer to free the tooling. Now I am having to give it a bit more than I like to free the tooling. As I only really use a collet chuck and various drill chucks I am thinking of leaving the collet chuck in place and fitting a drill chuck with a parallel adaptor, thereby not needing to remove anything from the morse taper.

Does anyone know of a supplier of drill chucks with straight adaptors?

Bri

Edited By Boiler Bri on 03/04/2019 21:30:58

I have a wm18 milling machine. Recently the tooling has become difficult to free from the morse taper. It used to take a slight tap with a hammer to free the tooling. Now I am having to give it a bit more than I like to free the tooling. As I only really use a collet chuck and various drill chucks I am thinking of leaving the collet chuck in place and fitting a drill chuck with a parallel adaptor, thereby not needing to remove anything from the morse taper.

If you use a reamer to get to size are you not going to end up with a larger hole? Unless I have missed something and your using an adjustable reamer?

All my fixed reamers are over size when used.

Only a small amount.

If you want to borrow an adjustable one I can lend you one?

Bri

I have just been painting my 4" traction engine. I primed it using Halfords spray cans. Then used H and M tins of spray paint. Self levelling enamel. I had ordered these. These are great. One light coat and leave it for 15 minutes. Then re coat and repeat after about the same time. The results are great. However. I am not one for too much preparation, small blemishes show through easily. I also always wash the parts before painting in petrol. One small bit of grease and the paint leaves small craters. I never use tack rags ether. Once washed a quick blow with the air line and off we go. As mentioned. Functionality is more important to me than show finish.

Then you put it all back together and knock chip and scratch your lovely finish 😂

My 5" Brittania got the same treatment

Bri

Edited By Boiler Bri on 03/04/2019 21:13:26

Started to take the masking tape of all the bits and pieces for my 4" Durham engine after painting all the black bits, ready to rebuild it.

At work. Riveted the strakes on the back wheels which can now be put on the jig ready for the spokes riveting.

I tried to up load photos to my files, which I have not done for a while, for some reason they will not load up. I will try from a PC tomorrow.

BRI

Looks to have had a cosmetic job done. Bed looks ok. Wonder what it sounds like 🤔

My 5" Britannia rebuild is coming to an end - if there is one!

I am drawing up the parts for the above wagon so that i can get them punched out at work.

I will be building the welded version. In drawing up the bits and pieces its becoming clear that some item do not fit, or i have not interpreted them correctly.

Does anyone have a photo of the buffer beam where it attaches to the sole bars?

Bri

Great job Ian. I love all your fixtures etc.

I am currently machining a cast bracket for the governor on my Durham engine. It was difficult deciding where to start 🤔

Your doing it. For me that's what counts. As for the overboring I have four wheels for my sweet pea with different size bore. In the end I reamed them all and made the axles oversize 👍

Bri

Your Elf n safety says all cut ends should be cleaned to prevent damage to fingers. Its a bit like a small offcut of round bar on the floor, you just dont do it.

46 years ago my boss boll(£;: me off for doing these things and you remember not to do it - if you dont your stupid 🤔

Well thats what he told me 😂

Bri

My milling machine is 11 years old now and for the first six n bit years of its life did nothing other than sit on the bench of a late club member after he had passed away. His wife could not bring herself to clear out the work shop, so i paid her for the whole thing, lock stock an barrel and cleared it all out.

The Miller is mounted on my bench with the table at about waist height, which is quite good for me as i am a short version of a man!

The other evening i had to mill some parts that were tall so i wound the head right to the top. To my horror i could now see under the head casting and could see a large crack in the casting.It is not new as the crack has round edges and is full of paint.

This has not been an issue, as i did not know about it and i have machined all sorts of stuff. On inspection It does not seem to open up even when i lock up the spindle head, which would in effect force the crack open.

Only trouble is as far as i am concerned i know its there now and will always be looking to see if its any worse!!!

I also know its of Chinease origin and that's the quality they knock out. I might regret down sizing

The pistons with no o rings on should move freely. As Little side play as you can get. Then with the orings fitted. Presuming there silicone should has a small amount of resistance. But not enough to have to force them. When the pressure comes on the pushing side by adding steam the o rings will seal more. Even running should ensue.

If you look up EAP on the internet they have a chart that gives you the tolerance for the grooves for o rings

Brian

I ran my sm32 Charles poorter engine around my small oval track on my decking this weekend. After the first steaming I topped her up with water and meths, I normally squirt a small amount of meths around the boiler to light it, so no difference there but the whole thing went up in 🔥 ahh panic luckily I was near the watering can and put it out. No damage done but on inspection the tube that feeds the wicks had become detached from the reservoir tank and when I filled it up it had run out onto the floor underneath.

I have stripped all the paint off the bits tonight and it's only softsoldered 😤 It's been ok since 1980's so I will re solder it and check all the other joints at the same time

Hi. When I spoke to our engineering manager and told him I was going to buy a tipped cutter for my milling machine at home he told me not to bother. He said that home machines would not be ridged enough and that the tips would shatter due to vibration. I never tried so I do not know if he was right or not.

B

How about using a boat trailer winch if your load is not too heavy?

Bri

Hi. The o ring is mounted on a small spigot to stop it wandering the spigot is just over halfway through the o ring and to the same shape. It needs about .2mm to squash down

Hope that helps.

Edited By Boiler Bri on 31/08/2018 20:10:08

Ok here's the results of my efforts.

PB1 material. I still have to clean up the edges and round the back off to suit the existing ones.

The seat has not had the ball seated yet as i have to make a guide for the punch.

A fellow forum member very kindly sent me some drawings of his valves with O rings fitted. I have drawn these up and if i am not happy with the ball method i will be converting them to O ring.

6MM D Bit

I still have some parts to make before i can test them, new top cap etc.

Brian

Edited By Boiler Bri on 30/08/2018 20:44:35