Slipping cluch
john hunter 1 | 17/06/2014 22:11:02 |
22 forum posts | Hello, I would be grateful for any advice you can give me on a slipping clutch on an early super 7 sk1453.I find that i am constantly adjusting it only to find it slips within a few minutes.I decided to strip it down and to be honest everything looked okay.The countershaft looked in good condition and the expanding iron shoe work but the adjuster had very slight wear.So i9 am at a loss to see the problem.the bearing are noisy and i would be grateful if someone could point me in the right direction to purchase them.would it be more sensible to fit the later type clutch if it can be done.Any advice is most welcome. Many Thanks. John
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DMR | 17/06/2014 23:30:15 |
136 forum posts 14 photos | John, This has been covered before. Search for "clutch" and go through the list which is only one-and-a-bit pages long. Initial answer is that there should be a locking grub screw behind the adjusting screw in the pulley. 1/4" BSF I think. I have sent you a PM if you are still slipping. Dennis |
john hunter 1 | 18/06/2014 00:45:11 |
22 forum posts | Thanks Dennis,I am aware of the locking grub screw but it still slips and thanks for the quick reply.If you have any idea for bearings please let me know. Cheers John. |
Tomfilery | 18/06/2014 08:42:47 |
144 forum posts 4 photos | John, I used to have this problem also. I'd stripped my lathe down to refurbish it, fitted new clutch bearings, etc., and on reassembly found the clutch kept slipping. I knew, from my inspection of the component parts, that all should be well and assumed that the grub screw was just working loose. I carefully (so as not to lock up the hole thing and using a pin so as to place only the smallest amount in position) put some nutlock in the screw hole and adjusted the clutch as normal - problem solved. Mine hadn't had a second locking screw in place and I wasn't aware of that trick at the time. Hope this helps you. Regards Tom |
Tomfilery | 18/06/2014 08:46:47 |
144 forum posts 4 photos | John, Sorry - missed it on first read - if I recall correctly, I obtained all my bearings and needle rollers form Simply Bearings who only charged a couple of quid postage however much/little you bought. Regards Tom |
john hunter 1 | 18/06/2014 08:50:51 |
22 forum posts | Thanks Tom,will give them a ring. |
john hunter 1 | 20/06/2014 20:11:37 |
22 forum posts | Thanks to Tom i now have new bearings.They where purchased from Simply Bearings,leigh, lancs tel 01942 269837 and they are a very friendly crowd. The numbers are. major brand klnj3/4 imperial deep groove ball bearing Torrington B1212oh full compliment needle roller bearing with lubricating oil hole. Regards John |
DMR | 20/06/2014 23:11:12 |
136 forum posts 14 photos | Have you solved your original slipping clutch query? If you don't have wear, then it has be the adjustment screw/s moving. The only other thing is a sea of oil from the existing bearings creating a sort of aquaplane effect, though I doubt that could happen once the clutch has gripped the pulley. The roller bearings and their rumble/s were a recognised problem and proper Myford offered a mod to replace all 4 with Oilite bushes CT 18 x 3/4" for a few years. This had a secondary effect of reducing the amount of excess oil sprayed about. Have you got the early manual pages which cover the countershaft spindle only being removed towards the tailstock end? Before you attempt bearing replacement. Dennis |
john hunter 1 | 21/06/2014 08:20:28 |
22 forum posts | Thanks for the reply Dennis.I have now replaced all bearings and will the refit the the clutch over the next few days, I will replace the locking grubscrew on the adjuster.I do not have the any early manual pages. cheers John |
john hunter 1 | 22/06/2014 21:25:39 |
22 forum posts | Hello,can anybody tell me the thread size of the countershaft split collar allen screws. Thankyou |
DMR | 23/06/2014 00:06:32 |
136 forum posts 14 photos | John, Manual says "Cap Head Screw 4BA x 1/2" long". Note that all the grub screws on the shaft are either 1/4"BSF x 5/16" OR 1/4"BSF x 3/8". If you respond to my PM (Personnal Message) of the 17th. I will e-mail you the relevant manual pages. Can probably do the screws as well if you are stuck, though I can't e-mail those! Dennis Edited By DMR on 23/06/2014 00:13:18 |
john hunter 1 | 23/06/2014 06:37:48 |
22 forum posts | Hi Dennis,Tried to reply to your personal message but my gmail will not let me do it. I would be grateful if you have a cap screw spare.my countershaft vee cone pulley has had better days as well and i am looking for a replacement.any information on that is most welcome. regards john |
john hunter 1 | 23/06/2014 10:24:16 |
22 forum posts | Have since found out the cap screws are 2 ba and have now purchased some so thanks to the people who informed me.I would still like to do a mk2 clutch conversion in the future on my early super 7 and i wad wondering if anyone has done the conversion and parts needed. Cheers John |
DMR | 23/06/2014 20:17:21 |
136 forum posts 14 photos | Hi John, You have replied via a PM, but I cannot send the manual pages via that path, and you did not include your g-mail address. I have PM'd you again with more info including my e-mail again. No one else has any trouble, but what does your g-mail say - I am intrigued as much as anything else. Unless you find a descent second hand "motorising assy", I think you will find later clutch parts from new myford costing rather more than your lathe cost! Even if they can supply them all. It would only be worth considering if the rest of your machine is in top condition- otherwise it's the old adage of good money after bad. Have another go at e-mail and we can have a chat. Regards, Dennis Edited By DMR on 23/06/2014 20:21:51 |
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