Seig X3

My X3 milling machine died this weekend, it started by running fast and slow then stopping fault light on did it a few times then died. To me it seems like a board fault. The machine is a few years old and the gaurd circiut has been bypased.

Arc Euro suggested testing the motor before the purchase of a new board unfourtumnately thier engineer is off sick and I am no electrician any help greatfully recieved on how to do it.

Olly

Hi Olly,

From my experience of the CL300M motor which is a slightly lower rated version of the original X2 (not the same motor as X3 or super X2).

Obvious symptom of motor problems is erratic running at very low speeds. Try getting it to run as slowly as possible, if it hesitates or jerks with the spindle at about 30 rpm, then there is probably a winding problem.

Testing is a bit tedious. You need to remove the motor, then take out the brushes (behind round black caps) then take off the end cap and remove the armature, having care not to lose the round shim spring washers that provide light end support to the bearings.

First check the commutator is in good condition - undamaged and no metal has smeared across the gaps to create a short.

You can now measure the resistance between each pair of segments on the motor commutator with a meter capable or reading down to a few ohms.

Virtually zero resistance indicates a short.

From memory, figures of about 3 - 4 ohms are right (I may be wrong about this but you will definitely get an 'ohms reading' from OK segments).

If TWO windings are blown, you will get two places where there is no continuity.

If ONE winding is blown this will be less obvious but the readings will vary and be noticeably higher as you cross the gap'.

I have brought one of these motors back to temporary life by shorting across blown windings, but this is a foolish thing to do and I don't recommend it unless you are a fan of white smoke or want to blow another board.

Neil

Edited By Stub Mandrel on 11/03/2013 10:20:23

Neil

Thanks for the reply the mill was ruuning at half speed about 1000rpm with no problems then started speeding up. It now does not run. The test suggest was supply 12v to the motor need to identify which leads are to the motor then I can do this

Thanks

Olly

Hi Olly,
I few years ago the motor failed on my X3 mill. I have documented the tests I did and information I put together about the motor and controller. (Including tracing the schematic of the controller.) I have put all of this information in a folder called "X3 motor and controller" in the file section of the Yahoo groups X_series mills forum. You have to join the forum to access the file section. If you do not want to do so then I can zip all the files up and put the zip file in my public folder on Dropbox. I can then give you a link to access the zip file. Let me know if you would like me to do so. I would not reccomend that you try to fault find the controller board as it is all at mains potential. The only safe way to work on it is to run it from a floating power supply.

Les.

Hi Olly,
The leads from the motor go to the forward / stop / reverse switch. There are then two wires from this switch to the controller board terminals marked A- and A+ (On my board.) If you are testing the motor wth a 12 V DC supply you could connect to these wires (After disconnecting them from the board.) but it would be better to connect to the wires from the motor that go to the switch in case the switch had some high resistance contacts. (Unlikely) Note there are two other wires from the reversing switch to one of the smaller connector blocks on the board. These are an interlock circuit which you can ignore. You could do a rough test on the board by connecting a 60 or 100 watt bulb to the terminals A- and A+ (Must be an old fasioned filiment bulb.) If you power up the mill the speed control should smoothly change the brightness of the lamp.

Les.

Hi Olly
If you are like me and not a spark please be very careful about above suggestions. I would be a bit patient and wait for Ketans man to get back.
Regards
Bob.

Les

I have disconnected the motor and it runs OK on 12 volts the board does not work with a light bulb connected it still lights the fault lamp.I will fit a new board on the strength of these results.

Thanks

Olly

Bob

Thanks for the advice many moons ago I trained as a radio operator but it was valves back then not familiar with this modern stuff.

Olly

I have fitted the new board and it's all working again, thanks for all the help I have received and a generous discont on the new board from Ketan at Arc Euro.

Olly

Well done Ketan once again
Bob.

Hi Olly,
I'm glad your mill is working again. I would suggest that you don't bin the old board. Either keep it for spares in future or try to sell it on Ebay or this forum. There are no difficult to obtain components on the board so it is probably repairable.

Les.