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can i build william without a small milling machine

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trevor [the goolie]04/02/2010 11:47:29
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thanks to tony martyr for photos as ihave juust bought material and some castings fof william trevor mouncey
David Clark 104/02/2010 14:48:14
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3357 forum posts
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10 articles
Hi There
You should be able to build William without a mill.
They never had mills in the olden days.
regards david
 
Tony Martyr04/02/2010 20:01:23
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226 forum posts
45 photos
Hello Trevor
I feel responsible for your choice of loco!
The Book (Rob Roy / William ISBN 0 85242 929 0) by Martin Evans is based on using a lathe exclusively although for jobs like the coupling rods and expansion link I found the milling machine a great advantage.
Certainly a good drilling machine and table is needed.
Having both machines means that I don't spend so much time breaking down and setting up different machining configurations.
Feel free to contact me direct if my recent experience can be of any use.
Tony M 
Julie04/02/2010 20:36:21
24 forum posts
1 photos
I built a William without a mill.
 
I used my dad's Boxford AUD (which became mine) and a B&Q type small pillar drill.
 
I did buy a vertical slide and boring table for use on the Boxford though.
 
I would guess today the cost of a half- decent, second-hand pacific rim mill off ebay would be similar to buying a vertical slide!
 
All the milling was very light, so even the smallest mill would be OK.
 
Julie 
Tony Martyr05/02/2010 09:47:45
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Julie what colour did you paint your model William?
There is intense disagreement in my family about this subject!
Tony
Julie07/02/2010 10:20:46
24 forum posts
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Ah Tony,  Painting – probably my worse attribute!
 
During the main construction I kept fairly up to date/speed with the painting, inside frames Vermilion red, outside black, wheels etc black..
 
As you know it is a freelance design, and therefore we are not tied to a particular colour scheme, or in my case guided by it!
 
As it was, we had a Hornby 2-6-2  O-O gauge train set with a red loco. Seeing this as a model colour scheme, I basically copied that, however this had totally discoloured and was far darker than LMS Crimson Lake, which would have been reasonable.
 
In addition, at the time I was somewhat stuck for cash, and having just bought loads of brass sheet, I took a big shortcut with the painting and instead of buying more etch primer, and correctly coloured top coat, I used car aerosol paint about the right colour!
 
This did look OK at first, although the colour was far too dark to look right in proper context (It was more a deep burgundy than Crimson Lake) fairly quickly the paint chipped away and separated from the brasswork.
 
Ho Hum!
 
So I am probably the last person to ask about choice of colour schemes and painting!
 
I would, now in hindsight, recommend choosing a standard colour scheme from LMS or any other, and sticking to that faithfully. You do have a choice of Red, Black, Blue and Green schemes, and these will always look correct 
 
Julie

Edits to add last two paragraphs.

Edited By Julie on 07/02/2010 10:29:28

Danum07/02/2010 12:07:24
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8 forum posts

I have moved ‘up’ to model engineering to learn how to use a workshop to build Gauge 1 live steam models but my background is in OO Gauge, O Gauge and Gauge 1 electrically powered model locos etc.

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In these smaller scales it is generally accepted that brass is one of the poorest ‘acceptors’ of paint, so much so in fact that some etched brass kit producers offer an option of having the kit frets produced entirely of nickel silver (normally the bodywork is produced in brass and the chassis in nickel silver). Currently the smaller scales recommend some form of etch primer after the body has been thorough scrubbed with some form of non-greasy cleaner with a tooth brush etc under a running tap. Some go so far as to recommend a chemical cleaning process and in the smaller scales an ultrasonic bath. You can also purchase a shot blasting air brush type machine to prepare the surface.

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I can thoroughly recommend ‘A Modellers Handbook of Painting and Lining by Ian Rathbone, which although aimed at the smallers scales has numourous techniques that are applicable to the larger scales. As the review says:-

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“The author has been building and painting model railway locomotives and rolling stock for nearly thirty years, the last twelve as a professional, during which time he has continually updated the methods used. This book takes the reader through all the stages from preparation and priming to painting, lining,hand lettering and numbering, finishing and weathering. While many readers may feel they will never reach the standards shown in the book,it is a pleasure to peruse and an inspiration to all.. Softcover, 154 pages, 303 colour, 12 b/w illustrations”.

trevor [the goolie]10/03/2010 19:09:01
3 forum posts
thanks to everyone for taking the time to post me a reply about a milling machune for william.I intned to go doem the route of buying a compound table for my drill.I amat presnt making Harold Halls MILLING ATTACHMENT FOR MY CHESTER DBV7 WILL keep you posted on progress of william again many thanks trevor mouncey

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