Stationary engine

I decided to have a go at making a Hit & Miss engine from the spare parts bin as such. I soon discovered there is no such thing & you will always need to buy something. The nearest engine I could find was from the USA & was over $650 to buy in kit form & $3500 finished. So far I have spent around £125 in stock needed. Not sure if anyone is interested in the build but it involves making everything from my thoughts & mostly my own design of how i reckon it would work out. This engine will be around twice the size of the kits available here in the Uk at £250 from kit specialists like Hemingways. It is going well & as usual for me it is many episodes on my YouTube video's. So far it is up to Episode 7. 7B coming soon of breaking the cast iron piston rings & expanding to create a good seal in the cylinder. I thank my subscribers from this forum, but anyone else who fancies making a slightly larger than miniature Hit & miss engine to have a look. The dimensions I have used are all shown within the video's, so feel free to copy them at your leisure.

I do not want to share this with comments from some members that are trolls. This is a genuine series with model engineers in mind. Thank you for reading.

Kind regards to all forum members

Steve.

The number of available kits has certainly dwindled over the last few years, pity you did not mention what you wanted to build earlier as I could have pointed you in the right direction either for UK kits such as the Senior or Economy that are biigger than what you look to be building there or sources for drawings that build up into good size engines but could always be scaled up or down.

I'll have a look through the vids.

Thanks for that Jason. I never thought to mention before starting the build. Never mind, it is certainly giving me things to think about. But thoroughly enjoying it too.

Steve.

Regarding your cam & gear from Youtube. I think your best be is going to be to make the gear with a spigot to fit closely into the gear's 9.9mm bore. You can then ream the whole length out to run on a 6 or 8mm diameter pin. Loctite should be strong enough to hold the gear to the cam's spigot.

This is the Kerzel gear scaled up to suit the larger 1" bore of the engine from the original 3/4". Not sure what you are going to do with the ignition trip so I have left off the flat for that as I would consider moving it to the other side of the engine.

And this is it with the gear in place, I have shown a reduced thickness boss as per the Kerzel drawing though I don't really see any point in it if fitted to the cam as shown particularly if you are tight for room

If you did want micro adjust then a curved slot in the gear and M2 tapped hole in the cam would sort that out

Edited By JasonB on 27/04/2023 19:05:29

Many thanks Jason for taking the time to do this for me. On later video's i have discussed the cam idea & the arc slot for adjustment.Your idea is a slight variation to what I was going to do. Which was to narrow the gear boss down & sit the cam over it. I guess either way works out the same. I have already turned the 2 gears down in width.

The Cad drawings certainly look better than my dirty paper drawings.

The stupid thing is i spent years with Autocad for both electrical & mechanical drawing. I had a few clients who comissioned me to do there factory drawings.

That was way back then. Now I have Freecad on the P.C & just cannot get my head around it. Funny what a few years being idle does to the gray matter.

Again many thanks.

Steve.

Well i have made some headway with finishing the piston & cast iron rings. Not sure whether to make a start on the crankshaft rebuild so I can decide on the lenghth of the framework next.

Thoughouly enjoying the thinking to make it to my own design. Plus a few idea's from forum members & my subscribers. I am sure at some point I will finish the build.

If not into the scrap bin it goes.

Steve.

I think it would be possible to extend the ends of the crankshaft if needed. I would turn the tapered section parallel but leave the thread. Then make up an extension bored or reamed out to closely fit that parallel section and put a thread in the bottom of the hole. You can then screw and loctite the extension into place. May be best to make the extension first and ream it then you can sneak up on the shaft. This assumes the shaft is soft enough to machine.

An alternative would be to make that extension part of the flywheel hub so the flywheel just sits out further and the governor spool can run on the extension allowing your bearings to come out as wide as the existing shaft allows.

Thanks Jason. I did consider extending the right shaft. The one with the taper. But I think I can get the flywheel on if I create a step in the bosses I have to make in the flywheel centres. That side is left hand thread. Also the crank is rock hard. The left cam side I am still pondering on making a spinning ball governor. Anyway as always ,thanks for the help.

Steve.

Well after having Covid, I am back on track with the Hit & Miss stationary engine. Up to part 9 now. It is a long one so for those wishing to see a 2 min video then it is not for you. But for anyone wishing to kill 45 mins then please feel free to have a quick peak. The picture shown is not mine. As I do not have one yet. 

Steve.

Edited By Steviegtr on 15/06/2023 02:20:52

Edited By Steviegtr on 15/06/2023 02:21:20

Latest video on the hit & miss engine.

Steve.