Slotting saw blades

I am making Anthony Mount's model Simpson and Shipton's engine and need to cut a number of 1/16th inch wide slots 3/16 inch long in a piece of steel 1/2inch deep.One of Mount's recommended ways to do this is to drill holes at each end of the slot and join them using a "slotting saw". These saws, he says, "are like a large piercing saw but come in different thicknesses - 1.6mm will suit." I have been unable to find any reference to these at all, let alone a supply. As the alternative involves 1/16 slot drills at full depth presented from each side, I am keen to find a source of these blades.

Can anyone help?

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Sorry, that’s a new one on me … and it sounds like hard work !

MichaelG.

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Edit. __ no mention of oversize piercing saws here:

 https://www.pollymodelengineering.co.uk/sections/stationary-engines/anthony-mount-models/simpon-Shiptons-Short-Stroke-Engine.asp

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 06/10/2022 16:21:58

Apart from the Guitar makers ones which are unlikely to fare well on metal I've not heard of them.

On other engines of Anthony's and others I've drilled the ends of the slots 1.4mm and then done a series of plunge cuts from either side with a 1/16" milling cutter with about a 10thou step over. To square up the ends I have a Warding shaped needle file that I gave ground the faces flat on so just the edge cuts. ARC do a similar file but being parallel edged it won't fit a 3/16" long slot.

You can get diamond coated wire saws used for cutting gemstones and glass in various diameters including 1.5mm.

They are used in a fretsaw or coping saw frame. Could that be what is being referred to?

Are these open slots in which case just use a slitting saw? Link to Arceurotrade imperial slitting saws 

If they are closed slots maybe a 1/16" milling cutter plunging in overlapping positions will do what you need to do.

Martin C

Edited By Martin Connelly on 06/10/2022 17:51:48

Jason - yes, that's pretty much the same thing.I've now done one by that method, so only another 7 to go. I just hope I don't trash the slot drill, as ones with sufficient reach are hard to come by, which is why i would prefer the saw. You have made a cracking job there!

Peter - thank you -worth a try, I think.

Martin - they are closed, so it looks like it has to be the slot drill..

Michael G - you're not wrong!

Apologies if this is a clumsy way of replying to individuals; I couldn't see how to do separate open replies. Enlighten me if appropriate, please.

Is this one of the mythical 1/16" slotting blades or something else?

Bought an old dusty blister pack of three a few years back from a small local DIY shop thinking they were serrated all sides but found there was just the one toothed edge, no description on the packet, 10" long with looped ferrule ends/hacksaw type fitting so didn't think they were woodwork ones. Dunno how good they are on metal as I broke my 10" hacksaw frame shortly after getting them and not bothered to replace. You are welcome to try one Henry PM me your details and I'll post you one.

The depth of that blade would seem to suggest it is not what was referred to as you could not pass that through a 1/16" hole to then join the hole at the opposite end. Whatever they are like they would need plain ends so they could fit into a piercing saw clamp type frame and possibly be round more like a small dia Abrafile blade

Edit. I'll take that back having just looked at the build article. He says the holes can be joined using a needle file and THEN a slotting saw so it could have more depth to the blade.

Edited By JasonB on 07/10/2022 07:26:50

One trick that can be used if you don't want to or can't plunge deep enough to form the slot is to stand the conrod on end and mill a pocket out of the middle, that way you only have to plunge and subsequently file thinner material. This is from my 2/3rd scale Tidman where the slot is 3/4" face to face

Now that is goddam clever!