Taper Turning Attachment

This taper attachment came with my Boxford lathe but had no fittings I was woundering if any one had made the cross slide bar to fit on the cross slide or any of the other fittings the other fittings seem easy to make but the cross slide one not so easy as I may have to remove the cross slide thread to use it.

Or a second hand one with out having to buy the full kit Thank You

You will have to disable the cross slide thread to allow the taper turning attachment to work. I have a Myford one that will work in the same way as this one. If you can machine the V slide the rest is easy. PM me for more details. Noel.

The holes ringed in red bolt the the saddle, the green part clamps to the bed. The yellow part connects to the cross slide.

Here is a closeup of the part that travels on the slide you have.

The red bolts are where the previously shown part connects to the saddle, the allen bolts dis-engage the cross-slide screw. The part in the second picture engages with the slot in the cross-slide. Also visible is a cover I printed to stop swarf getting on to the cross-slide screw.

As you can see on my lathe the cross-slide is a different one, rather than having a part that bolts on the the normal cross-slide.

I hope that helps.

Baldric.

john

If you don't also have at least the carrier that fits to the back of the saddle as well as the part in the picture I'd advise against trying to reverse engineer the Boxford system and make new parts. Its very difficult to get right.

Because you have dovetail slides both below and above the central bar there is no vertical flexibility. So the system has to run absolutely flat and level in both sets of slides. The tail end bed clamp must also sit at exactly the right height. Tolerances are basically zilch!

My old SouthBend Heavy 10 had the same set up and getting it just right to get smooth movement with no drag both when ordinary turning and when taper turning was a right pain. Ant that was factory fitted kit exploiting SouthBends usual babbit filling technique to ensure the tail end bed clamp alignment was correct. Mine had been removed and refitted "not quite perfectly" by the previous owner to paint the machine so there was enough drag when in taper turning mode to twist the saddle a little upsetting the actual taper set and cut.

Not a great fan of having the loose tail end bed clamp dragging up and down the bed all the time during normal work either.

In your position I'd cannibalise it by fitting an angle bracket underneath to bolt to the bed and bolting either a U channel or square / rectangular block onto the taper setting part. Easy to allow a bit of space for vertical misalignment in a simple solid or U shoe follower. Its all lots easier. Thats the way folk like CVA, Holbrook, Pratt & Whiney (U channel) and Smart & Brown (rectangular block) do it. I figure they know what they were doing.

Never really understood why the system fitted to Boxfords became popular. Lots of extra fitting and precise work needed to get the sole, tiny, advantage of being able to immediately taper turn anywhere along the bed.

Clive

Thank you Noei,Baldic, and Clive, for your kind replies. I thought it would be a nice project to do but as I only wanted to make No 3 morse taper I think for the times I would use it Its not worth the trouble. So today I moved the tool post over and and turned the morse taper, and it fits my milling machine nperfect Thanks Again.