Lifting and moving a Downham Jig Borer

Hi,

I wonder if anyone has any suggestions to help me lift a Downham mini jig borer. When I picked it up the seller was very helpful and loaded it onto a pallette and into the van on a forklift. However I'm having a bit more trouble than expected at this end.

My equipment is: home built gantry crane, a 2 ton pallette truck. 1 ton chain lift, 5 short webbing slings and 1 long one. Plus random ropes and webbing etc

I think my main problems are concerns over where to safely attach to without risking damage to the machine, and the fact that it wants to tip and roll like crazy. It's currently laying on its side on a pallette. I need to get it up over a 10in concrete slab and then up 10 inch step into my workshop.

This is the forth time with this equipment, first (and second, but that's a longer story) with a Warco WM280V lathe and also an old Newing Hall Pantocut. In theory that was heavier but also seemed designed with lifting points in the castings. This Jig Borer has none of that. When the chap lay it down, he locked off the moving head to the column and lifted with that?? Is that ok? The last thing I want to do is damage it, as it's in lovely condition.

I've linked to some pictures of the current machine and also one of the crane in use moving the lathe in its crate.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZvNzN346yTj9z6ZR6

Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance.

Steve

Looks pretty awkward laid down like that. But as it is already down flat on a pallet, I would do any further lifting by slinging through the pallet and lift the whole pallet. Get it next to where you want it to be then get a mob of mates over to help gently stand it upright.

Would unbolting and removing the cabinet/stand make things more manageable? Depending on how heavy the machine is, you might be able to then stand it upright on the pallet for moving.

Whereabouts are you?

Steve, lifting with a sling around the head with it locked in place will be fine, make sure on the initial lift the sling is not pressing on anything that will bend, shafts guards etc.

if you are in a rural area I would suggest asking a local farmer to assist using a tractor with a front lifting attachment. A good man will pop it into your workshop door.

Hoppers suggestion of splitting it from the cabinet is also well worth considering if the above is not feasible 

As you say these are very top heavy so if you have to move it manually I would pull it upright an fix it to a pallet or board to prevent tipping then use rollers to move to position

John

Edited By JohnF on 23/05/2019 09:03:34

Edited By JohnF on 23/05/2019 09:05:09

Thanks for the replies. Good to know that I can safely lift at the head when locked down. My original plan was to split it but the wires to the motor go via the switch on the stand. I thought it would be "easier" not to mess with the wiring but I think that I should have split it first off.

The pallet is ok with the weight on it but lifting with it, it starts to bend and make disturbing cracking sounds.

I think I might go with trying to lift it to standing position then split and deal with each bit. That should help getting though the door as there's 1/2in clearance on the frame.

Cheers

Steve

#2 on lifting and moving the whole pallet with it still laid down. Pallets go fairly well on pipe rollers but won't slide along steel bars laid down railway fashion. In the past I always used rollers and dollies but, since being introduced to the use or steel bar rails I find them preferable. Especially with tall machines.

Dunno exactly how things are laid out at your place but I have a similar step into my workshop. Best option is to get the whole pallet in then stand the machine up on steel bar rails just in front of where it has to go then slide it back to place. Getting the rails out might be interesting if you haven't made provision for lifting the rear of the machine. If its back against a wall and your roof / wall attachments are strong I'd arrange a permanent lifter. Big ratchet straps can be repurposed for such duties and are well up to lifting the rear of such machines an inch or so for the rails to slide in. Usual crowbar and wedges at the front.

If you can't get the pallet in the workshop then block it up at the door so the to is a little higher than the floor. Make sure that the pallet can't move when uprighting. I've screwed them to the floor in the past.

Usual rule applies. Take it slow. Think breaks and cuppa breaks. Crib up as you go so it can't fall. Never forget that pallets are throw-aways. Cutting to aid movement and screwing blocks, cribs et al on is fine.

Clive

Well just to follow up, thanks for the replies. It did finally get moved in ok. I went with pulling it upright with the crane and then proceeding to lift it with slings around the column. The weight seemed at the limit of my home made gantry which started to flex and twist in a way I wasn't comfortable with, so in the end the pallet truck did most of the work. I blocked up the platform outside the door and then, with nothing to spare height wise, gingerly rolled it into the workshop.

Link to some other images: https://photos.app.goo.gl/TFwivConnqYPvVuh6

Having now purchased the full set of documents from lathes.co.uk for this machine I now have the info on the correct way to lift the machine, which involves two eye bolts that screw into the rear of the base, and a 1" steel bar under the front tray. The does look a lot safer.

Not sure if anyone else has any info to share on this machine but I think I'll start a thread to document how I get on with set-up and use. Next step is to wire up a VFD as it's 3phase. I've investigated a little and so far the accuracy all seems ok. Looks like it's been modified at some point to use DA180 collets so more to learn about that.

Cheers for now

Steve